moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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May 15, 2020 21:24:51 GMT
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It is the pop-off valve that I've got mounted vertically on the inlet manifold. Do you have any details of this that you can post? Really enjoying your thread and impressed by what you've achieved so far. Good luck. Of course It is a Shorrock Style pop-off valve. I got mine with a 3/4 BSP thread, as it is easier to get a boss to weld in eBay link
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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I'm juggling my time/effort between getting the engine SuperCharged, and getting the rest of the bodywork sorted. I'm waiting on parts/lockdown for the SuperCharger, so it is back to bodywork. Time for the rear passenger door. As a recap, the doors are unique to the Countryman/Traveller. Therefore they are rare, I've only seen one decent pair for sale in the last few years. I baulked at the cost, as I thought mine were alright. But applying the strip disc to the passenger one told me otherwise The door bottom is just about to let go. A previously repaired section around the wheel arch was pretty unpleasant, but should be a straightforward repair This is the nasty spot that will test me - around the door lock, including a captive for the door lock. The rust goes a little too close to the quarterlight rubber for comfort. I daren't take the quarterlight out as I can't get a replacement rubber, and that one has been in there 50+ years. Two panels and a hole need repair near to the upper door hinge. One of the repair panels almost ready to be welded in - white powder coated steel. Shame the powder coating needs removing before the welder gets near it - nasty fumes. The bottom of the frame has of course got some areas to repair There are at some other repairs needed on the outer skin. I think I counted 11 areas in total Still as a good mate of mine always says....How do you eat an elephant ? One bite at a time
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Last Edit: May 16, 2020 7:10:02 GMT by moglite
1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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totti
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,153
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Oh,that door look nasty... Tricky to repair....
But i think it was not a really surprise for you.
Keep your mojo!
Greet
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65 'Ford Taunus 17m 66' Ford Taunus 17m Turnier 73' Ford Taunus 63' Ford Taunus Transit 1250 72'Ford Escort 2000cc 71'Ford Escort 1700 4 door 89'Ford Escort Express 87'Ford Fiesta Diesel 64'Ford Cortina 1500 deluxe 57'Volvo PV 444 Califonia 54'Peugeot 203 Commerciale 2004 Harley Davidson Fat Boy 78'Zündapp ZR 20 88'MZ ETZ 250
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May 17, 2020 13:31:48 GMT
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I don't often post and there are plenty of threads here that I admire but this one seems to have a fair smattering of everything, more than a fair smattering in some respects. Keep it up, I think we're all looking forward to the end result.
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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May 17, 2020 21:57:02 GMT
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The knarly area around the door lock. One bite at a time - first bite after cutting out some more groo, was to start building up the curved section. Now the vertical, with a flange that was just beaten in with a cross pein hammer It was this wiggly piece that took the time to form. But at least it was 2D, so just a bit of time and fine adjustments to get the fits just right. All welded in, using plenty of cooling compressed air to keep the nearby quarter-light rubber in one piece. Cleaned up and test fitted the door lock - it still fits The captive originally was held in with steel straps which gave it chance to wiggle a bit. IMHO there is no adjustment at the door lock, so I made my life easier, and just welded the nut in as a captive. The U-section from a Morris Minor is used to hold the door rubber is a really light gauge, so is tricky to weld. It is in place, but not pretty, but obviously can't be see once the rubber is in it. Very happy with that repair. I didn't think I'd be able to repair this area all in metal, in fact I even bought some P40 filler, so that can sit on the shelf unused. More in part 2.
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Last Edit: May 18, 2020 7:55:51 GMT by moglite
1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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May 17, 2020 22:30:34 GMT
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Part 2 of a busy weekend making noise and smells in the garage. A couple of sections let into the bottom of the door frame, and more of the Morris Minor U-section re-added for the rubber trims. Yep - that should work. Another couple of repair section to the hinge area of the frame. Nice'n'strong The section over wheelarch all setup ready for butt welding in. I had to cut out and fit a repair section above the large hole for the door push button !! There were also three holes around the styling detal that were welded. Two from the fixing from Countryman trim - proving that this door is not original to the car, and another rust hole near the top. I'll do that triangular section another day. The only other major repair is the bottom inch of the door skin. I think it makes sense to do that on the car. So I've thrown the door back on I can now set about the long and tedious, but oh so necessary setting and gaping the doors. Thanks for looking
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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May 17, 2020 23:00:30 GMT
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Your 2D repair is actually in 3D so you're already... ahead of the curve. Nice repairs, it's coming along well.
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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May 25, 2020 17:59:24 GMT
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Okay so lets make the rear door fit..... I'm no expert on Farina doors, but I know the factory @longbridge got pretty Neanderthal on the doors to make them fit. If the rumours are true, a 6' length of 2"x4" timber actually has a BL part no. First step. New bolts, and do them up tight. Nipping up doesn't work, the door still has room to wiggle, until the bolts are properly tight. The stainless trim around the windows has no adjustment - unless you are me !! Apply a little lozenge - only a mm or two. Okay, this is as good as I'm going to get. Remember this door isn't original to the car, so it has never fitted properly. That gives me a gap at the trailing edge of the door, which can't be called consistent, and can't even be called a gap !! There is no namby-pamby (or however you spell that) option. Mark it, and cut a piece off. I'm going for 5mm door gaps, so I cut a 6mm gap, to allow space for some weld. I had to continue, and do some of the wheel arch gap, but it was worth it. I also welded up the little triangular hole in the middle of the door whilst waiting for some weld-through primer to dry. I was super lucky, and the repair for the bottom of my door just fitted on my bender. and here it is, ready for fitting and welding I've got that panel mocked up, but I think I'll pull the door off, and do it on a panel stand ....another day it has been too hot today for big gloves and a welding jacket. Thanks for looking
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,832
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May 25, 2020 18:05:20 GMT
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BMC may have a part No for a bit of timber, Ford had a pad on the bottom of the doors on the Model A so they could fit a jack under the door when open to align it
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style. Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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May 25, 2020 18:07:45 GMT
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BMC may have a part No for a bit of timber, Ford had a pad on the bottom of the doors on the Model A so they could fit a jack under the door when open to align it Funny - there may have been a small trolley jack in one of the pictures above. It wasn't there for effect
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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May 25, 2020 18:19:28 GMT
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Nice work on the door!
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May 25, 2020 20:15:04 GMT
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Loving the ratchet strap "persuader"!!
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating '80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip '97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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May 25, 2020 20:59:56 GMT
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BMC may have a part No for a bit of timber, Ford had a pad on the bottom of the doors on the Model A so they could fit a jack under the door when open to align it Funny - there may have been a small trolley jack in one of the pictures above. It wasn't there for effect I don't know of a bodyshop that does not have several lengths of 2 x 4 for door springing along with ply / timber pads for panel jacking - a proper eye opener is to see a accident damaged vehicle mounted to a body jig & the jig being used in vengeance to pull the damage out of the bodyshell
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Last Edit: May 25, 2020 21:11:18 GMT by Deleted
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May 25, 2020 21:15:18 GMT
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1955 Austin A30 1981 Jawa Mustang 1990 Trabant 601 (Tommy) 1989 Trabant 601 2009 Jaguar XF 2012 Toyota AYGO 2018 Scomadi TL
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May 25, 2020 21:23:15 GMT
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In the 80's I saw other factories where they were using blocks of wood etc, but it was all before paint not on a completed vehicle!
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Haha that video is brilliant!
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Didnt realise that trabbies were built by "the scousers"!!
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating '80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip '97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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I love the way he kicks it at the end, sort of that'll do !
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That gives me a gap at the trailing edge of the door, which can't be called consistent, and can't even be called a gap !! There is no namby-pamby (or however you spell that) option. Mark it, and cut a piece off. I'm going for 5mm door gaps, so I cut a 6mm gap, to allow space for some weld.
Did you measure the distance from the A Pillar to the C Pillar on both sides ?
I've had cause to check a Jaguar XJ40 and an X308 prior to 'molestation'. Neither had any evidence of prior accident damage but both had typical degrees of corrosion.
The XJ40 was c. 5mm maximum difference side to side, which reduced to c. 3mm with judicious use of props, hydraulic jack and BFH. The X308 was c. 2mm different but we could not move that with the tools available to use.
Values from fallible aging memory!
The diferences at the top, middle and bottom of the pillars differed markedly, but I can't recall where it was at a maximum. I think it was from upper front hinge plate to rear door latch plate and in the case of the XJ40 it was the front bulkhead which moved.
Nothing like 1940/50s variation or Series Land Rover tolerances, but still surprising. Manufacturing tolerances can add up to a surprisingly large variation over the full length of a car.
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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I love that Trabbant video....I knew I was doing something wrong....I didn't dress up as a Scouser from 1984 or SuperMario My shell hasn't been in a major accident, all four wings were original. The shell is still pretty square despite loads of repairs over the years, and a major rebuild by myself. Certainly less than 5mm on anything I measure. But none of the doors are original to the car, and have never fitted properly.
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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