gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
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Body & Paint Threadgryphon
@gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member 157
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May 16, 2020 19:42:34 GMT
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Firstly - 400's for primer is a little heavy - you need to be at 600 / 800 for primer (if its thick primer nothing wrong with an initial going over with 400's but you need to finish with a finer grade) - secondly other than a very light & delicate wipe over with a tac rag - I don't touch the basecoats once they are applied - they are formulated to accept the lacquer / clearcoat without being keyed back (key a metallic / pearlescent basecoat back and you will end up with a proper mess) - your satin basecoat finish looks heavy / thick / dry to me - I would try lighter / wetter coats prior to clear coating them - how many coats of lacquer have you applied ? Thanks. I made a mistake in that post, pre primer was 400, primer was 800 grit. The datasheet for the upol lacquer recommended keying the basecoat if it was a solid colour - I'll try the next one without keying. Does heavy / thick / dry mean I'm moving too fast and and building the wetness with too many passes? I hadn't really thought about it and was finishing with a wet layer trying to get a good finish... But I was building it with a lot of fast passes. There was only one layer of lacquer in that picture, I stopped spraying as soon as it started looking wet. I have since done a heavier layer which improved things a bit but I'm very happy to start again. Thanks for the advice
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rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
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May 16, 2020 20:26:32 GMT
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Thanks for the reply. That looks neat. Is that just out the cartridge and brushed or did you use masking tape? It is the one litre tin I have tried. Sounds like the cartridge type followed by stonechip would look good enough for what I need. Just need to source some low modulus cartridges on Monday. Got the sill repair welded on today. Welds are reasonable (I think) despite working outside in the wind and having the shielding gas blown about. No need to gring down as there is a decortive cover piece screws on top.
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Last Edit: May 16, 2020 21:16:16 GMT by rbs: Added pics
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at200
Part of things
Posts: 86
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May 16, 2020 21:50:33 GMT
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If you use masking tape you can get a neat finish with both the brushable sealers and cartridge sealant, like Tiger Seal. The only thing I have found is that it is very hard to stop cartridge sealant from going hard in the tube between uses. I tried the usually tips like cling film, keeping it inside etc.but it didn't work. Now I try to save up any required seam sealing so I can do a large amount at once.
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rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Body & Paint Threadstealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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I've always found cartridge seam sealant to be best. Cut the nozzle off at a fairly sharp angle then you can force the sealer into the seams then flatten the excess out with a brush as GN suggests. Brush on stuff just seems to sit on top.
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I cant see any glaring difference between the cheap & the expensive one - both made by the same manufacture - possibly the cheaper one could be a thinner not has dense as the other one and not have the same coverage hence the budget price - but you don't need gallons of it so its not has you would save a great deal even if you purchased the branded more expensive one
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Last Edit: May 17, 2020 7:54:25 GMT by Deleted
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Thanks for the reply. That looks neat. Is that just out the cartridge and brushed or did you use masking tape? It is the one litre tin I have tried. Sounds like the cartridge type followed by stonechip would look good enough for what I need. Just need to source some low modulus cartridges on Monday. Got the sill repair welded on today. Welds are reasonable (I think) despite working outside in the wind and having the shielding gas blown about. No need to gring down as there is a decortive cover piece screws on top. Its out of the cartridge then just lightly brushed over with a half inch brush to replicate a factory seam - Tetrosyl CSS310 will do the job for you - its available on line - possibly via ECP - no need to bother with masking tape or anything like that - nice job on the sills BTW
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If you use masking tape you can get a neat finish with both the brushable sealers and cartridge sealant, like Tiger Seal. The only thing I have found is that it is very hard to stop cartridge sealant from going hard in the tube between uses. I tried the usually tips like cling film, keeping it inside etc.but it didn't work. Now I try to save up any required seam sealing so I can do a large amount at once. Use the right product for the right job i.e. A automotive seam sealer for sealing automotive seams and you don't have to faff with masking tape edges which then just string the sealer when you remove / pull the tape and leave a tramline edge - a PU sealer (like Tigerseal) is the last thing I would brushing into automotive seams its the wrong product for the job regardless of what its states on the tube - has already stated you need a low modulus seam sealer that is formulated for the task
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rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
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Stupid question probably but is it ok to spray Dinitrol 4941 onto stonechip? Anytime delay required?
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Stupid question probably but is it ok to spray Dinitrol 4941 onto stonechip? Anytime delay required? No such thing has a stupid question - If you are going down the Dinitrol 4941 underbody wax / protection route then you can delete the stone chip application - the 4941 will do all that you need in providing protection from rust ingress & light impact protection - plus once applied it replicates a factory underbody finish - the method I use is to prime / etch prime any bare metal - apply the seam sealer - then the 4941 over the top of the sealer & primer - never once had a issue afterwards - I have a client that uses a vehicle I restored 5 years ago out in Switzerland and he uses the car in all weathers and it still looks great underneath - I would highly recommend a reapplication every 5 - 10 years though dependant upon vehicle use - use the 4941 in conjunction with Dinitrol's ML cavity wax and you have replicated / exceeded factory finish standards
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rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
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Ah right. I was just thinking of making the seam sealer I have already brushed on from a tin look neater and was only going to spray the stonechip on top of that and Dinitrol everything else. Plus I wasn't sure if the Dinitrol was tough enough to accept impacts from stones thrown from the wheels. Thank you. (Again)
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May 17, 2020 11:43:39 GMT
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I'm trying my hand at some aerosol painting, have a few questions and after half an hour googling and watching various youtubes seem to be none the wiser! I think they're rather basic questions though...
I'm starting small and re-spraying a couple of wing mirrors black. U-Pol cans from Jawel - grey primer, satin black and clear. So far I've sanded back the previous pretty terrible paint job with 400 grit and given two coats of primer, a rub down with 400 grit after each coat. Photo is after second layer of primer, left sanded, right unsanded: I was pretty happy with the primer, but included the picture just in case I shouldn't have been! Next up Satin Black basecoat. Went on with quite a textured finish and I've been sanding it back with 1500 grit (Can't find my 1000, either have 800 or 1500). First question is how smooth do I need to get the base coat? I'm presuming smoother / more uniform is always going to be better, but I've sanded through it so many times trying to get to the finish I think I need that I must be doing something wrong... This is what I've ended up with: I went ahead and clearcoated one of them, and either due to the base or my spraying technique it came out looking incredibly textured. When I was spraying it I put it on until I could see a nice reflection and wasn't too worried about it running... Was it too light? Sorry for the rookie questions! Thanks in advance My question is why are you clearcoating over satin paint? Satin paint is a finish on it's own. If you want a gloss mirror then black basecoat with clear over it, or if using aerosols then why not go direct to gloss black paint? The finish you have ended up with looks pretty good for clear over satin, it's what I would expect.
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May 17, 2020 18:05:04 GMT
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The only thing I have found is that it is very hard to stop cartridge sealant from going hard in the tube between uses. I tried the usually tips like cling film, keeping it inside etc.but it didn't work. While we're on cartridge products, I was going to raise exactly the same topic and ask if anyone had any suggestions on how to stop this. I've got so many cartridges where I've ended up having to saw into it part-way along the side to try to scoop some out and not waste the thing. I suspect they're just not intended for people who might use a bit, then leave it a few months and want to use it again. The trouble is, it puts me off buying "decent" stuff because I know I'm going to end up throwing 90% of it away.
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Last Edit: May 17, 2020 18:05:29 GMT by droopsnoot
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May 17, 2020 18:20:07 GMT
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The only thing I have found is that it is very hard to stop cartridge sealant from going hard in the tube between uses. I tried the usually tips like cling film, keeping it inside etc.but it didn't work. While we're on cartridge products, I was going to raise exactly the same topic and ask if anyone had any suggestions on how to stop this. I've got so many cartridges where I've ended up having to saw into it part-way along the side to try to scoop some out and not waste the thing. I suspect they're just not intended for people who might use a bit, then leave it a few months and want to use it again. The trouble is, it puts me off buying "decent" stuff because I know I'm going to end up throwing 90% of it away. With my seam sealer I use a fine cut on the end of the nozzle - circa 5mm max diameter - when done I insert something of the same internal diameter or just slightly tighter but it needs to be 25mm + long has a minimum (like a nail or similar) I then just tape the end up - it tends to work for me several weeks later - but not that well on silicone based products and don't get me started on PU based products - has soon as air to gets to PU it starts to go off - some of them are moisture curing too but just air moisture alone will cure it
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Last Edit: May 17, 2020 18:21:06 GMT by Deleted
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gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
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Body & Paint Threadgryphon
@gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member 157
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My question is why are you clearcoating over satin paint? Satin paint is a finish on it's own. If you want a gloss mirror then black basecoat with clear over it, or if using aerosols then why not go direct to gloss black paint? The finish you have ended up with looks pretty good for clear over satin, it's what I would expect. It was the recommendation from Jawel when I bought the paints... Possibly he was just recommending within the 3 for 2 offer. I did also do some parts with a mixed colour basecoat and they came out far better! I sanded everything back and got a decent enough finish on them in the end - thanks for the advice GN, moving more slowly did the trick. Edit: got a photo after a bit of polishing. Edges aren't great on this one, second one came out far better.
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Last Edit: May 18, 2020 9:04:24 GMT by gryphon
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@grumpynorthener what brand seam sealer do you use? I've always used the generic brands from the paint supplier or tiger seal.
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May 18, 2020 12:01:12 GMT
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gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
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Body & Paint Threadgryphon
@gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member 157
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May 18, 2020 12:48:17 GMT
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Thanks, I was pleased with it! Finish from the can looked more like this - which might be a result of the satin baselayer? A little work with 2000 grit and Farecla G3 brought it out nicely though. Next time I'll try a proper baselayer!
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May 18, 2020 18:59:01 GMT
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@grumpynorthener what brand seam sealer do you use? I've always used the generic brands from the paint supplier or tiger seal. I use this Best seam sealer that I have come across - flows out nice filling seam edges - does not string and brushes out to replicate a factory seam - miles better than any PU based product such as Tigerseal / Sikaflex etc
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Body & Paint Threadballbagbagins
@ballbagbagins
Club Retro Rides Member 164
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May 19, 2020 12:08:36 GMT
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Hi Chris, I need some further help on my plastic spoiler please. I followed the below steps but I can see sanding mark through the top coat. 400 wet sanding on the existing paint few coats of aerosol primer wipe with IPA 600 wet sanding wipe with IPA cleaned with tack cloth few coats of aerosol satin black leaving 15 minutes between each coat It's tricky to get a good pic showing the marks but are all over the spoiler.
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