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Jul 15, 2018 16:15:58 GMT
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With regards to your dealings with DVLA and registering the van, I have foiund that where Government Departments start playing silly beggars, don't mess about go straight to your MP. You find the details/e.mail address etc... via the House of Commons website. Your MP will take up the cudgels with the appropriate Department right at the top. I know from personal experience that an MP's enquiry will generally have to be replied to within 14 days, and then forwarded to you. My experiences with HMRC on 3 occassions; DVLA re Driving Licence groups, when I had my licence drastically cut due to becoming diabetic, most certainly shook them up a bit and ellicited the information and action that I was looking fof. The Heads of Government Depts do not like receiving complaints from MP's, on behalf of their constituents. It also works when trying sort issues with organisations such as County Councils. The whole lot of them suddenly start jumping through hoops. A point well worth remembering. Also very interesting build, etc... I think your right on the mp thing. When a councillor makes a complaint to the company I work for, everyone seems very eager to please.
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Jul 15, 2018 16:46:07 GMT
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Hub caps. I'm on call in work today but as things were quiet I thought I'd take a look at them. If you've been paying attention you'll remember I bought a set of Baby Moons. But having no way of keeping them on the wheel I was going to drill a hole in the centre of the cap and weld a nut to the centre of the wheel and bolt them on. This is how the early Estafette's secured them.. You may also remember that in order to do this I had to find the centre of the hubcap and the wheel. In the end I decided against this method as it was just a pain. When I first so an Estafette wheel with Baby Moons fitted they had used 3 x m8 nuts welded to the wheel so that the hub cap could just clip over them. This was my chosen method. The van came with 2 sets of wheels so I grabbed a spare to make a prototype. I tried the hub cap on and it looked like so. So I took the wheels off the van and repeated 4 times. The end result was this.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,285
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Jul 15, 2018 19:12:19 GMT
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That's a brilliant solution! Looks great with the little caps too.
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Jul 15, 2018 19:15:26 GMT
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I bloody love this van! My dad had an orange one when I was like 4-5 years old!
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
Member is Online
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Jul 15, 2018 21:18:14 GMT
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I’m liking those hubcaps very much. Top job. 👍
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Jul 15, 2018 21:23:24 GMT
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That's a brilliant solution! Looks great with the little caps too. Thanks vulgalour. No my idea, but a good one.
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Jul 15, 2018 21:26:28 GMT
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I bloody love this van! My dad had an orange one when I was like 4-5 years old! Thanks lukeevangelou. If it was a RHD example it was a pretty rare beast. I only know of 2, one local to me that's rotten on one on the Estafette fb page.
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Jul 15, 2018 21:27:10 GMT
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I’m liking those hubcaps very much. Top job. 👍 Cheers glen. I'm pretty pleased with how they look.
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I bloody love this van! My dad had an orange one when I was like 4-5 years old! Thanks lukeevangelou. If it was a RHD example it was a pretty rare beast. I only know of 2, one local to me that's rotten on one on the Estafette fb page. Dad's just told me it was rhd! It soon became a greenhouse I think unfortunately! Keep up the great work mate!
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Adey
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,432
Club RR Member Number: 171
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top work, looks awesome
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Jul 22, 2018 18:19:28 GMT
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Road trip. Little Jonsey and myself jumped into the Avensis with trailer in tow to drive from West Wales to Bristol to pick up this It's a 1.4 engine from a Volvo 340 with twin choke Weber. This should drop straight into the van with just a change of ancillaries. That will take it from 39bhp to a massive 70bhp. It even came with the down pipe so I can fit a proper exhaust system rather than the single box with top entry and side exit. I'm not going to fit the whole engine yet, just the twin choke. This lot was cheaper at £100 than just a rebuilt carb. I'll wait until the winter to fit the engine as the gearbox needs a rebuild so easier to do the lot in one go. For some reason with the standard throttle linkage the second choke does not open at wide open throttle. If you take the linkage off both chokes open fine. I'll have to make my own linkage
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Jul 23, 2018 16:47:39 GMT
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I've got the week off work and my wife has to work Monday to Wednesday so thought I'd do some work on the van. As I'm sick of it stalling every time I take my foot off the throttle I thought I would try and fit the Volvo twin choke Weber and inlet. The inlet won't fit without the Volvo exhaust (things starting to spiral out of control already) so I removed the Estafette manifold an trial fitted everything. Instead of the exhaust now going straight down into the top of the exhaust box, the Volvo down pipe exits down and backwards. When I bought the Volvo I engine I got the front pipe with it which is about 2' of 2 twisty bendy pipes. Now as you can see in the photo above the exhaust is exiting over the chassis rail into the front wheel tub. I took a grinder to the front pipe, and then took a welder to it also and ended up with this. I can now just use a couple of exhaust bends and a single exhaust box that also came with the Volvo engine to make a new system. The old system was really noisy as that box you can see from the wheel tub now leaks like a sieve. There is an interference issue with the twin choke. The brass pipe coming from the manifold is redundant so that can be tapped and plugged. To cure the carb contact I'm hoping I can put a couple of washers under the engine mount on that side to give it some clearance. If that doesn't work I'll massage the contact point, but that will mean also having to modify the GRP engine cover, but this may need doing to clear the carb body higher up anyway. This is the modified down pipe fitted. I'll continue tomorrow
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
Member is Online
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Jul 23, 2018 17:05:43 GMT
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My mum had a couple of 1.4 engined Volvo 340s back in the eighties. I have fond memories of thrashing the living daylights out of the B-reg one after I passed my driving test. They were quite happy to rev and went fairly well by the standards of the day. I’m sure it would be a good engine in one of those.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Jul 23, 2018 17:24:23 GMT
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My mum had a couple of 1.4 engined Volvo 340s back in the eighties. I have fond memories of thrashing the living daylights out of the B-reg one after I passed my driving test. They were quite happy to rev and went fairly well by the standards of the day. I’m sure it would be a good engine in one of those. My nephew used to race one and that went alright too. I'll fit the engine when the gearbox is out over the winter, but the carb will do for now. Gearing is the vans major issue as the final dive is 5.8:1.
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Last Edit: Jul 23, 2018 17:26:19 GMT by jonsey
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 2,010
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Jul 23, 2018 19:14:25 GMT
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Could you fit a spacer block under the carb? The bolt pattern of your carb looks identical to the popular Weber DGV, for which phenolic spacers are readily available on eBay.
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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Jul 23, 2018 20:09:46 GMT
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Could you fit a spacer block under the carb? The bolt pattern of your carb looks identical to the popular Weber DGV, for which phenolic spacers are readily available on eBay. There's is already 3 spacers on there as standard. I could take 2 out and lower the carb but I'll have to shorten the studs. I'll take a look tomorrow. Thinking about it now I could just cut 15mm out of the inlet runners and weld it back together.
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 2,010
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Jul 23, 2018 22:12:11 GMT
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Haha, now the penny drops, I didn't notice the rail the carb fouls on is where the "bonnet" sits.
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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Jul 24, 2018 17:00:13 GMT
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Haha, now the penny drops, I didn't notice the rail the carb fouls on is where the "bonnet" sits. That rail is just the edge of the floor, and your right it's where the engine cover sits. After weighing up all my options on how to gain some clearance, lift carb, drop carb, tilt engine, shorten inlet manifold etc I ended up just bending said metal out of the way with a pliers. Sometimes the simplest solution is the best. The engine cover still fits too, but may also need massaging once I try to fit the air filter and if the engine bangs it when driving. I bolted up the manifolds and continued with the down pipe. It's not performance oriented so Tony Law shouldn't loose any sleep, but it will do the job. I've not connected it any further as I need to weld a silencer in line. I connected the old choke cable up with no issues, but I had to sort a throttle linkage and cable. I cut about the Volvo bracket and adjusted the linkage so that it now gets what. I called in a the local motorfactors to pick up a universal throttle cable but they had none in stock. So I called into the local bike shop to pick up a rear brake cable. It's one of those bike shops where the Lycra clad gents that block the road whilst cycling 3 abreast spend their hard earned on overpriced bike gear and coffee. After I explained to the gentleman that it wasn't for a road or mountain bike so just give me the one with the biggest nipple I went to pay. The gentleman tapped about 47 keys on his computer and then came up with a price of £7. £7! I nearly fainted. But needs must. I got home and fitted it. The moment of truth came. I started the engine but it would only run with the throttle pressed. On the carb is what looks like a jet with an electrical connection. I thought this was a fuel cut off. I did not connect it as I wanted to see if it would run without it. It will run, but not idle. I put a temporary 12v feed to it and restarted and it now idles. I have no idea what the point of that is. More tomorrow.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
Member is Online
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Jul 24, 2018 21:20:32 GMT
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It’s an anti-runon valve. Stops the engine dead when you kill the ignition, killing the fuel too rather than just relying on no spark.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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bosnod
Part of things
Posts: 12
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Jul 24, 2018 21:48:35 GMT
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