adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,888
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Oil is definitely an 'opening a can of worms' affair ![:P](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/tongue.png) Personally I've used engine flush and cheap 20w-50 in my B and its always been absolutely fine But with the huge difference in mileage, condition, service history between different B engines, it may be that different owners see their engines react in different ways to a flush An alternative school of thought to using engine flush is to do a series of oil changes with short distances in between. This would help get dirt out of the engine by removing the oil just as its starting to get dirty, not tried it myself mind
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I would just put some 20w 50 in [ any brand ] run it for say 50km then drop it out and put in a good 20w 50 - use some cheap stuff as a flush .
But if its not broke - don't fix it ,as we say .
EDIT didnt see above.
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vanpeebles
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I am eastbound in pursuit of a white Lamborghini, this is not a recording.
Posts: 978
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I run millers classic with zddp in ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
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...whichever method you choose ...don't forget to change the filter with each oil change ...
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ET
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Posts: 110
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So guys! It has been a short while, study started again so unfortunately had some less time to work on the car. Luckily I was able to do a nice bit of work before school started!(beginning of september, yes I'm a bit late hehe) I had one week at my parents place to make the car "winter ready", this included a nice bit of work! -last bodywork touches on the underside -weld some small patches -install ARB -put a radio in -complete fluid change -under body respray Maybe I missed a couple but it was a busy little week! So without any further delay, here they come! There was some swiss cheese on these 2 spots, not too bad at all. The steel around the edges was nice and solid so a couple of spot welds did the trick, anti chip spray will do the blending in! ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png) This was a bit of a dissapointment, the rims of the headlights were quite perished:( the headlamp bowls were in acceptable shape, probably going to do an H4 swap either way. Either way the dremel made quick work of the rust and with some fiddly bodywork it ended up really nice! This spot was quite the suprise haha, when I bought the car it looked like it had some cracked paint on that spot. But it seemed to be a 8 cm thick layer of bondo!, the smell when I rubbed it away with the angle grinder was pretty damn disgusting. So while all this was going on I drained the car of all its fluids, all the oils looked proper! the transmission had some small specks of metal in the drain plug. I later checked the drained oil with a metal but this was totally clean, saved me a sleepless night. more pics a bit later on!
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ET
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Posts: 110
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Oct 10, 2016 16:00:26 GMT
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So, some spare time to add the last couple of pictures:) Here I reworked the nose, you can see the rim of the headlight is also a bit reinforced:) Not at all a bad place to work! preparing the underside of the car for a respray. I did not use car paint, I was unable to find a nice matching colour. A different colour of white would have cost me about 40-50 per liter so I started thinking about another option, this respray is a temporarily solution for when I have the time/money for a full respray. The solution came in the form of white metal paint, this was a bit too thick for a spraygun. I diluted the paint with owatrol oil, paint showed some small rimples but nothing drastic. There she is! I am pretty happy about the result especially when you take the low budget into regards! After the respray I let the paint dry for 2 days, sanded the majority of the rimples down with 2000 grid glasspaper. The whole car looked a lot better! the upper layer of the paint was a bit dirty I guess so the sandpaper removed the dirt and all! If you see the paint in the sun there are some sanding swirls but I'm not too bothered with that, still have the top side to do:D. This is how she sits right now! Really happy with the look:) I also ordered a pair of yellow bulbs. still some stuff to do for the upcoming MOT, I want to go a half year abroad for my internship and I need to make sure my car is in proper state. So things to do are: H4 update for the headlights (the adjusting screws are totally rusted on mine so better upgrade with new dishes enz enz) New droplinks rear New tyres And if the pound stays this low for a while I will probably buy a sebring front valence, I can buy a rear one for a nice price in combination with a smaller steering wheel. But money is always the problem haha! hope you guys like it:)
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dikkehemaworst
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,604
Club RR Member Number: 16
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Oct 10, 2016 16:12:49 GMT
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Like it? Top work bloke!! Love it and your vision ! Carry on!!
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ET
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Posts: 110
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Oct 18, 2016 10:53:44 GMT
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So I'm looking for another set of rims, anybody have something to offer? Maybe some tips (i have heard that a low ET is desirable for this car)
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Oct 19, 2016 21:12:30 GMT
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Your rim options are kind of limited since you have spline drive wheels. You are kind of stuck with traditional spokes or what you have. Spokes wont allow you to run tubeless tires unless you buy a set Daytons from the states. Most people would love the wheels you have.
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ET
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Posts: 110
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Nov 26, 2016 19:00:22 GMT
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So did some engine work today! My dad has a "colourtune" sparkplug, so we fiddled a bit with the carburettors. It runs a lot better on idle! Made an appointment for a pre-MOT test to see what I need to order part wise, need to put some pace into it. This februari i'm going to Denmark for a half year and i hope to bring the MG with me:)
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bgt
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Posts: 151
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Nov 27, 2016 11:09:39 GMT
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Car is looking great! Good job on the bodywork. So I'm looking for another set of rims, anybody have something to offer? Maybe some tips (i have heard that a low ET is desirable for this car) As bjornagn said, you have the knock-off wheel hubs. But you can always buy a set of bolt hubs. They are much more common, and open you up to a whole lot more choice when it comes to wheels. Including e.g. a lot of special and rare (but not too expensive) Japanese wheels. The bolt hubs have 4x114.3mm spacing, so there's a lot of stuff that will fit. The real limitations with MGBs is the narrow rear wheel wells combined with the live rear axle (which can move from side to side in corners). 7" wide wheels (or a 205-section tyre) is really the widest you can go without modifying the arches. I have 15x6.5 ET19 wheels with 185/55/15 tyres and they don't rub unless the car is full of heavy things.
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ET
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Posts: 110
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Car is looking great! Good job on the bodywork. So I'm looking for another set of rims, anybody have something to offer? Maybe some tips (i have heard that a low ET is desirable for this car) As bjornagn said, you have the knock-off wheel hubs. But you can always buy a set of bolt hubs. They are much more common, and open you up to a whole lot more choice when it comes to wheels. Including e.g. a lot of special and rare (but not too expensive) Japanese wheels. The bolt hubs have 4x114.3mm spacing, so there's a lot of stuff that will fit. The real limitations with MGBs is the narrow rear wheel wells combined with the live rear axle (which can move from side to side in corners). 7" wide wheels (or a 205-section tyre) is really the widest you can go without modifying the arches. I have 15x6.5 ET19 wheels with 185/55/15 tyres and they don't rub unless the car is full of heavy things. Thanks for the toptip!
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ET
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Posts: 110
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So I took the MG to the mechanic today, as a pre-inspection for the MOT. He(the mechanic) was quite surprised with the condition of the car, it showed very little rust which is quite unique for a original Dutch car (we have a lot of water here haha). But unfortunately no pot of gold, some technical issues where uncovered.
- The lighting is off, will need some tweaking in front of the garage door to get the view back. - Need 4 new tyres, especially in the front the mg likes to eat them haha. - I have oil leaking into my drum brake, probably a bearing in the tube axle:/ - As a result of the problem above there is a unequal brake power distribution - Rear droplink is busted
and as a marvellous final ringer: NO compression in cilinder 2.
So this came as quite a surprise, i thought the engine was running fine but apparently not. The rest of the cilinders where fine compression wise: 10-0-12-13. Talked about it with the mechanic(my cousin) and he said it's probably a leaking valve. The compression is obviously no problem for the MOT but keeping in mind i want to drive 700km to Denmark it would be best if its fixed ASAP. So I think i need to be ordering parts right now to get it fixed before februari. Tips and tricks are welcome!
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fer4l
Posted a lot
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Testing
Posts: 1,497
Club RR Member Number: 73
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The valve suggestion sounds likely to be right in my experience - not a big job and when I was a student I fixed mine with just a second hand valve (one had chipped) and new HG, and it ran fine for ages Love your rims - if you do swap and the splines are OK I'd be interested in buying them? ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) Cheers Matt
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There is an option for running alloy wheels on the knock-off axle. This is my GT that I have had for almost 40 years. The wheels are "minotaur" and can be run tubeless. I run 196 60 14 size tires. ![](http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/653/1241/26630620002_large.jpg) They are not cheap from the supplier (MOSS in my case) but they do come up for sale from time to time at a reasonable price since the market is not that big.
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ET
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Posts: 110
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Found this nice video, explaining how oil works. always nice to know right
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ET
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Posts: 110
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There is an option for running alloy wheels on the knock-off axle. This is my GT that I have had for almost 40 years. The wheels are "minotaur" and can be run tubeless. I run 196 60 14 size tires. ![](http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/653/1241/26630620002_large.jpg) They are not cheap from the supplier (MOSS in my case) but they do come up for sale from time to time at a reasonable price since the market is not that big. I think I have these on my car right now! Only difference is that mine appear to be a bit darker, maybe they have been resprayed.
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Guess I should have noticed!
I think the ones you have are Superlight out of Australia. A nicer version of this concept.
The only downside to the alloy knock-off wheels is weight; they do weigh a lot more than a comparable bolt on alloy.
Why would you want to swap them out, they look good and make your ride stand out from the crowd.
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ET
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Posts: 110
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Dec 10, 2016 16:22:39 GMT
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So today was a nice day of tinkering! A bit about me, i'm not the most technical person one can find and sometimes I have troubles finding my sweet zen spot haha. So to start with I had to pull the head off the MG, my dad was already in his starting position to help me (read: do all the work himself haha). I told him to go away and only come and check if cursing persisted for more than 10 minutes. Off we go! a nice corner under the carport, out of the cold breeze. Had my laptop and haynes manual on the go for some pointers. I have to say it all went like a breeze, almost no bolts where so tight that could couldn't unbolt them. Getting the carb of was a bit trickier because the lower bolts are quite hard to reach, I think she had a carb job done because the spacers between the carbs and engine where looking brand new! At some point I had to call in the help of the car guru (my dad), 1 stud of the head was totally stuck. we could rotate the head a bit but the stud was stuck in the upper part. We tried a bunch of stuff: double bolt on in and trying to power it loose, heating it, heating and cooling it all in vain. There's the curse word grrr But glory in the end, we tightened the bolt on the stud and twisted the head and,.. hooray it came loose! So at that point I was really curious to see what the problem was in cilinder 2, I was expecting maybe a chipped valve. But to my surprise it was something else... I think you can already see what's the problem here The outlet valve of cilinder 2 seems to be higher up in the head, i though that maybe the wrong kind of valve was in place but wrong again. The valve seems to have no seat at all, I am not sure if something like a valve seat can wear but this is kind of strange. This also means that I have been happily driving on 3 cilinders all along, which kind of makes me feel like a dummy ![:P](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/tongue.png) Next week the head will go to a machine shop, (peterse engine rebuild in a town called epse) he also did the head of the Lancia from my dad. I'm trying to keep my options open a bit, maybe there is something he can do to make the head perform a bit better and have a working second cilinder. Anyhow, I really enjoyed myself today. nice day of wrenching on your own car and having the impression that you understand it is a good feeling haha! Have a nice weekend all!
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Dec 11, 2016 13:30:34 GMT
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That is a new one on me?!
Wanted to say a hardened valve seat had fallen out, but not sure that is what I am seeing. How does the cylinder and piston top look?
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