ET
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Dec 11, 2016 19:20:50 GMT
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That is a new one on me?! Wanted to say a hardened valve seat had fallen out, but not sure that is what I am seeing. How does the cylinder and piston top look? haha that's what my cousin said too the top of the cilinder has an even layer of carbon build up. no strange dents or scratches on the cilinder wall Maybe the seat has been blown out via the exhaust(sounds very unlikely) or it just has never been in?
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Last Edit: Dec 11, 2016 19:21:25 GMT by ET
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Dec 11, 2016 19:29:46 GMT
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Looks like the head has been used with unleaded fuel, causes the seat to get hot and the valve to "pull" into the seating .
Unleaded heads will have inserts in them ... You can use 'leaded' heads with unleaded fuel but you need to use additive to fuel to prevent this ...
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Last Edit: Dec 11, 2016 19:35:30 GMT by westbay
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ET
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Dec 11, 2016 19:41:40 GMT
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rLooks like the head has been used with unleaded fuel, causes the seat to get hot and the valve to "pull" into the seating . Unleaded heads will have inserts in them ... You can use 'leaded' heads with unleaded fuel but you need to use additive to fuel to prevent this ... Definitely has been running on unleaded(without additives), previous owner said it always had. I specifically asked if he used any additives or something like that. been searching the internet a bit and I think you are right. www.flowspeed.com/seat-recession.htm
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ET
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Dec 12, 2016 13:15:45 GMT
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So the head is at the machine shop, painful to put it mildly...
$$$440 euro$$$ incl tax for the drilling out of all the seats and refitting them with new hardened seats.
I guess also one of the joys of owning a car right?! And to continue the spending streak, need to order the parts to get the car right for MOT.
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Dec 12, 2016 13:24:57 GMT
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Last Edit: Dec 12, 2016 13:26:14 GMT by bjornagn
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ET
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Dec 12, 2016 14:12:55 GMT
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Well i have heard of him but i thought that those heads where like 2 grand,.. this seems a bit more reasonable.. But i would probably need all new parts when I would go for a fast road or something like that right? now I need to buy new valves, studs and bolts
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Dec 12, 2016 14:19:23 GMT
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So the head is at the machine shop, painful to put it mildly... $$$440 euro$$$ incl tax for the drilling out of all the seats and refitting them with new hardened seats. I guess also one of the joys of owning a car right?! And to continue the spending streak, need to order the parts to get the car right for MOT. Ouch ![:(](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/sad.png)
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Dec 12, 2016 19:29:31 GMT
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Well i have heard of him but i thought that those heads where like 2 grand,.. this seems a bit more reasonable.. But i would probably need all new parts when I would go for a fast road or something like that right? now I need to buy new valves, studs and bolts Funny, but my assumption was that the prices quoted were for assembled heads. Might be worth the effort of a call or an e-mail to see what the actual cost of a "Ready to bolt on" head would be. I think what you are spending with your local talent is a bit spendy. Then again, I am in Canada and have no idea of what stuff cost in your neighborhood.
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ET
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Dec 12, 2016 23:38:53 GMT
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Well i have heard of him but i thought that those heads where like 2 grand,.. this seems a bit more reasonable.. But i would probably need all new parts when I would go for a fast road or something like that right? now I need to buy new valves, studs and bolts Funny, but my assumption was that the prices quoted were for assembled heads. Might be worth the effort of a call or an e-mail to see what the actual cost of a "Ready to bolt on" head would be. I think what you are spending with your local talent is a bit spendy. Then again, I am in Canada and have no idea of what stuff cost in your neighborhood. No you made a good call, the head was already at the machine shop so I had to call them quickly to hold on a bit longer with working on it. I will try to call peter today (at a proper time hehe) maybe I can get the ecotune head for a couple of euro's extra.
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,520
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So the head is at the machine shop, painful to put it mildly... $$$440 euro$$$ incl tax for the drilling out of all the seats and refitting them with new hardened seats. I guess also one of the joys of owning a car right?! And to continue the spending streak, need to order the parts to get the car right for MOT. Ouch, last time I had hardened seats fitted, it was only 30 euro's a seat (times 6 on the ford v6 I had done). I had stripped the head, but they cleaned and checked for warpage as well for that money... So you're kind of scaring me with those numbers as I'm about to embark on another rebuild... Anyway, cost aside, if it has to be done it has to be done! At least now you'll know for sure that unleaded is no longer an issue! And not to scare you, but on one of my ford v6 engines I once thought I had a lobe wear down as there was 1,5mm play developed over 50km's.... Turned out to be a hardened valve seat working loose. It prevented the valve from closing hence the play and of course it had no compression either. Tankfully that particular engine was of the non interference type, so the piston was fine. A 30 euro recut and new valve seat later the engine is still running strong now, years later. So I guess it pays to have a knowledgeable machine shop do the job. The engine I experienced this with was rebuilt before it came in my posession though so never knew who did the work. Good luck.
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ET
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Dec 14, 2016 15:00:41 GMT
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Picked the head up today from the machine shop, I have made the decision to send the head to Peter Burgess. My total calculated costs for just the lead adjustment was around 470 euro (including new valves etc), when comparing to peter I will spend 500 on a ecotune head. Obviously this is still quite a high number, especially as a student. I figured that including the maintenance I have to do on the car, it will costs me money anyway so lets get the curse word part over with. (i'll just work a bit more on my job this break) Also ordered new head studs, bolts, washers, summer thermostat, rear droplinks and new seals for the driveshaft. It will mean that I cannot bring the car to Denmark:( or Peter works like lightning but when I come back or in between I will have a fresh good performing MGB. And that off course is my goal. I wanted a MG on which I could tinker and work with to have and create a fun performing classic sports car, let's just see this as a step in that direction:) Maybe even the Nordschleife this summer?
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Last Edit: Dec 14, 2016 15:02:10 GMT by ET
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
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Dec 15, 2016 11:17:24 GMT
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Peter is local to me, my GT had his stage 3 head on towards the end and it made a massive difference. He certainly lives up to his awesome reputation.
Cheers.
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Dec 15, 2016 12:17:52 GMT
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While the engine is apart, take the time to pop the lifters out and have a look at the wear surface. In case you are not aware, today's oils lack an additive that is critical to flat tappet cams (ZZDP?) and will show up as pitted lifters or cam lobe wear.
The additive is available separately.
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ET
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Dec 29, 2016 14:15:44 GMT
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So the friendly mailman picked the head up for transport to the motherland! England that is of course to get an ecotune make-over from mister burgess. Meanwhile in the not so batcave, the Lancia had to make place for the MG (slightly grumpy dad) Lifted the rear and removed the tyres, the idea was to immediately take a look at the faulty driveshaft seal. But hey presto: not the right socket in our massive arsenal of tools. ordered it right away! So I started with the droplinks, these things are a hard nut to crack! Right side came of easily on the leaf side but upper side had no movement, took the whole damper off to smack it off with a hammer but still no luck. But there was the old wise man(the dad) who gave me a tip to cut the droplink off and shorten the piece of metal that was sticking out. Hope this picture explains it a bit! Then he told me to put a big socket around it and clamp it in the vice, with a big bang it came loose. I was amazed, especially when my only resort was: hit it harder or with a bigger hammer. The left side had the same problem but additionally with the bolt in the bottom also rusted stuck. The angle grinder made short work of that ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png) Cleaned the dampers and installed the new droplinks! By some unlucky coincidence (my stupidity) the heavy part of the new droplink landed on my face while I was messing with it under the car. this made my dad chuckle a bit, guess thats payback for putting the Lancia in the cold:P More progress this Monday! if the hangover doesn't last too long that is
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ET
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So this is what I found today, A very greasy rear brake assembly. I already put the new seal in, I am not going to replace the bearing due to the amount of work (and I just don't have the time right now:( ) For my piece of mind I ordered a refurbishment set for the rear brake since the brake shoe was soaked in oily slurry, heavy degreaser didn't do the trick. Since the head will be coming back as fresh as a daisy in a few weeks, I want the rest of my engine bay look a bit pretty.
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ET
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Felt like the valve cover missed some spice, So partly inspired from the old WW2 bomber planes and its owner: Dismantled both sides of the car to replace the seals and brake set, the left side of the car was in even poorer condition. So after all good choice to order an extra seal. Have to wait for parts but it's sitting there ready to go! I also installed the stainless steel protectors for the sills, glad they are on because they look really nice IMO While I was tinkering with that my dad had a test round with his polish machine, the paint was catching a lot of dirt(and holding it) After the spray last summer I went over the car with 2500 sandpaper, this made the paint a lot smoother but also left a lot of scratches. My dad polished it first with Commandant 5 and afterwards buffed it with polishing agent: Leaving for Poland tomorrow but I hope to get some work in Sunday!
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A word of warning since you are working in the area. If for any reason you plan to remove the rubber limit straps, be very careful not to break the stud on the axle. If the nut puts up any amount of resistance, go straight to heat or use a nut-breaker. The mount is a pain to repair and breaks about 75% of the time if you just crank the torque.
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djefk
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So an econotune head from Peter Burgess is only €500? What does he do to it for that exactly? Seems cheap to me if he does anything more than unleaded / re-furb and some polishing?
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vitessetony
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,055
Club RR Member Number: 114
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So an econotune head from Peter Burgess is only €500? What does he do to it for that exactly? Seems cheap to me if he does anything more than unleaded / re-furb and some polishing? From the Peter Burgess site, "In addition to the work carried out on the Standard Leadfree head, the Econotune head features bulleted inlet guides and the combustion chambers, valves and valve throats are modified to enhance flow and smooth combustion. The compression ratio is also increased to approximately 9.75:1. As we do not increase the valve or port size, the resulting high port and seat velocities produces a broad spread of very useable power from idle to a maximum of around 4800 rpm. This is ideal for towing, motorway cruising and good torque-y 'grunt' for ascending hills. The power increase at 3000 rpm is approximately 30% and the maximum power increase is approximately 18% at 4800 rpm." So it seems to be a very good investment in my humble opinion.
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djefk
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Well blow me down with a feather - what a billy bargain! ET, can report back on the fuel consumption improvement as well as the power hike? Probably do the latter first and then the former once you've calmed down on using the extra punch though!!
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Last Edit: Jan 4, 2017 13:56:46 GMT by djefk
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