1978 Toyota Cressida MX32 - 09/03 It's a bit damp..

If you can, try to find the reference point. That is, having screwed the mixture screw fully home (with the engine off) all carbs have an "unscrew by X turns" to give a basic setting at which point the engine can be started. It is from here that you do the tweaking and your sweet spot shouldn't be a million miles from your reference. If you don't, you have no idea where you are starting from. Makes life a little easier.

Unless the carb's goosed.

I would have thought that info would be out there somewhere.

You should be able to get close to revs by ear and then, as said above, how it behaves when you pop it into D. Just a slightly discernible little bump, and you're about right.

Get it to that stage, then you can fine tune.

Ouch sorry to hear about that.
Love the way the wheels look though. Not too dark or too gold, but subtle & accentuate the trim-rings nicely.

Oh carp!

Sorry about your HGF but it's the excuse you needed for 1UZ power!!!

Yeah, that's what I was aiming for. It's not maroon enough for a dark gold.






Yeah.. Not the best news, but I'm glad it happened 2min from home and not an hour away. I should be able to get a gasket set from work.
The only thing I haven't been able to find so far is a fuel pump/pump repair kit. I think that might be busted too, or at least the diaphragm, to be leaking smoke how it is.



vitessetony Stop it!
No power changes until I know this one is shot. I don't have the time or money for two projects at the moment. And I'd have to get it mod-plated, which means more expenses.
And 8 cylinder rego is stupid expensive here. I don't want to pay $1000+ a year in rego for my daily.


Went to Beachfest today, was pretty cool. Heaaaps of old Fords and Holdens and American tin. I saw one Japanese car, and three British ones, haha. Oh and a really cool Alfa. Will make a thread and link it in my spot thread.

A 1 or 2JZ would be acceptable instead.

Okay!
So I managed to attract a Jono around to give me a hand with the Cressida with promises of dinner and beer this evening.
Main thing to check at this point was a compression test. This was my first time, but it's pretty simple!
Took the air box off, sludginess observed coming from crank case breather is more syrupy than oil at the moment. Moisture around the carb throat.
That'll be the water, then.
Fired her up and waited an age for her to get to her normal operating temp of about 1/3. Wouldn't get there.
Have a look in the rad (had added some water) and it's not really flowing. Jono thinks might be a pump issue but easier to check stat, so do that first.
So I start disassembling the stat housing again while also learning how to do a compression test.
The stat was removed, some goop slapped on the mating faces and the car started up and the pump is definitely pushing enough coolant around.
So dud stat maybe? Turns out, nope. So... really efficient cooling system it is! Barely needs to run through the radiator... :/
But there is a chunk out of the stat housing on the block side that squirts like a little boy, if there isn't gasket plus goop. Will have to sort at some point but for now a bit of silicone where the corrosion is and a gasket instead of the goop that doesn't seem to have done much/may have lost me some coolant.
But really efficient cooling system head gasket failure does not equal.

So back to the compression test. But first, another diversion!
Pulled the plugs out, and the only plug that showed an issue was cylinder six, and looked like it had a bit of oily water baked on to it.
Apparently the 4M is known to lift the head at the back of the motor.
First I've heard, but I'll be honest, I didn't go around asking everyone!

So.. compression test I heard you wondering!
From 1-6:
155
145
150
155
150
155

So... that seems okay, doesn't it?
A brief google brings up that around 150 should be about right. (scientific, I know!)

So the theory of the head lifting a little could be correct?
We took the rocker cover off and tightened the head bolts. Or tried to. Only the back ones had some movement in them (further pointing towards aforementioned theory).

For now, I need to get a new stat gasket, plug the hole in the housing, and fill the radiator back up again. I will get a new plug to replace the fouled one.
Then the plan is to take her for a couple of not short but not long runs and see what she does. And then take her for a long run.
I asked should I not swap the oil and flush it, so I can see if I get more water in there.
Jono says it's not worth the money, the water in there will evaporate and it will stop looking like a latte, or I'll have to add more water to the radiator.
Either way will indicate failure or win.
So I will run it as is for a few 100km and see what happens, and then probably run some diesel oil for a few 100km as it's pretty sludgy under the rocker cover and it looks like it's been there a while.

So it should be nice and clean after that.

So.. who knows? Maybe not as big an issue as I thought?
Time will tell. Going to need to have my Personal Assistance Jono on speed dial when I take her out for a test run I think.

Cheers,

  Matt

That's wierd but if it isn't getting up to temp you will get Mayo build up on shortish runs.

Do they still do "Do stuff to Jono Friday" on Triple M?

Yeah... not a prospect I'm particularly keen on. By shortish I'm talking 30min or so of reasonable load.
Work is only 3min away, which is why I had been taking a longer route to work to make sure she was getting driven around a bit. Maybe it wasn't enough.
But I'm not sure I want to drive 15min out of my way every morning to prevent it happening again. :\

If it's because the engine isn't getting up to temp enough, would not a higher temp stat or less radiator cooling do the same job (but give less leeway for disasters) ?