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Hydraulic conversion for me was dead easy. I used MX5 parts as they were on hand and mounted the slave on a bracket made from 3mm angle coming off one of the engine bolts. Used a bit of threaded bar with a slot for a screwdriver and threaded on the VW clutch nut backwards for an adjustable pin. Once I realised the first 10 degs of travel in the clutch arm was not doing anything it worked straight off (pic is beetle box, bus box worked the same, also before I put the adjustable pin in)  |
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Last Edit: Feb 19, 2018 0:25:54 GMT by wightfug
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I guess we should run the single cable we have, and if we have problems then the easiest thing would be hydraulic!
It’ll work, it’s just more susceptible to jamming up I think :/
Thanks
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Feb 24, 2018 19:57:12 GMT
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did a bit today, fitted the throttle cable  Looked at the clutch, and we are going to have to go hydraulic, so will order a master and slave from CBS (unless anyone can recommend anything better) We looked at fitting the battery box in front of the beam, but can’t get it low enough to clear the bonnet without it being very low and hanging out too far below, so we are going to fit it at the front of the passenger footwell  We also ran some cables in, I got some 5 core SY, which is steel braided to run to the lights etc.... think it will look better than in conduit, so ran a conduit to the rear and then can split and distribute from a waterproof box there   Started to think about what we can do with the handbrake (other than launching it into the sun) the linkage works now we’ve unseized it, just need to remake the bracket!!   And most importantly, we stole the gearknob idea from foxye28 and now have a Groot gearknob!   |
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Feb 24, 2018 21:47:13 GMT
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Last Edit: Feb 24, 2018 21:48:00 GMT by wightfug
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Feb 24, 2018 21:59:28 GMT
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Think we’ll go that way with the battery as we evolve this, Used to run odyssey batteries on my motorbikes, We’ve got a standard beetle battery (I think) that came with the Fug that we are using at the minute. The cable is 5core 1.5mm SY from the wholesalers, like this from online  |
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Feb 24, 2018 22:08:29 GMT
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Thanks. Much better looking than your average SWA cable ! PO used trailer cable, which is OK but of course with LED lights way overkill. Talking of batteries I used these guys www.ebay.co.uk/usr/willinton?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754 to make up battery cables - cheaper than I could have bought the components and a great job. |
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Feb 24, 2018 22:21:44 GMT
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This thing really is coming along now. Keep up the good work!
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Feb 26, 2018 21:26:29 GMT
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Well thought we’d sorted some slots for the front, they were American Racing, but they weren’t right  So they got swapped, we’ve now got a pair of Cobra slots...  They are 6” though, so a bit wider than we’d like, but I think because the front tyres are 80 profile, we can still fit the 165 tyres onto them (?) Need a bit of tidying up before then though |
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The Doctor
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,449
Club RR Member Number: 48
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Feb 26, 2018 21:40:11 GMT
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They will go on easily. I ran 165/65 on 6" wheels without problems.
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921 
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Feb 27, 2018 10:18:13 GMT
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Don’t think we’ll get anything done, as the kids are doing a hike.... I’ll do an update when we do something, but we’ve got a punctured tyre, spoke to mate, Stuart the tyre fitter, and this has happened.....  Not picked them up yet..... but exciting!! So the new fronts are a full match ? Will look great. |
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Feb 27, 2018 13:46:29 GMT
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So the new fronts are a full match ? Will look great. Yeah  Bit wider than we wanted, but think they’ll be fine Going to give them a good clean up for now, and look at refurbing properly in the future |
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Feb 28, 2018 21:34:02 GMT
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Won a spare layback bucket on eBay for £12.64, which turned up today!!  Got a OBP clutch master cylinder, which should just bolt into the pedal box (have to move the pivot point, but holes are drilled) Also got a slave cylinder and few other bits, so should have almost everything we need for the hydraulic clutch (except mounting brackets and another flexy)  And also got a fuel tap for the tank.... it’s got a reserve position, so until we sort senders out, we should have a bit of a warning before running out of fuel (unless we forget to switch back to ‘on’ and then replicate the hilarious time I pushed a GSXR750 off of the M40)  So now I’m in trouble for ordering lots of stuff  we need to sort some scrap and have another weigh in too! Started cleaning up one of the slots, but nothing really to see so far (have ordered a ‘ratta kit’ but from elsewhere) Need to go and measure up for mounting plates etc, but it’s a bit too bloomin’ cold!! And have weekend tickets to the Gathering! And we want to bring the Fug!! |
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Finished work a bit early (everyone was losing their minds over the weather, we’ve finally got some snow) and popped up the shed, just to check whether bits fit, and what we need to modify  Looked at the clutch, the slave cylinder should be fairly easy.... will need to lose a piece of tinwear (but as there is no bodywork to seal to, that’s not a problem)  And that will also pick up the throttle cable as well Then bolted the master cylinder in, will need a rose joint to fit to the pedal, and move the pivot point down by 20mm  So will sort that before our next day working on it And checked the fuel tap, the thread is correct, but it doesn’t screw in all the way (?) which will also need looking at..... that’s as far as it would go hand tight  And spent a bit more time on the front slots |
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Is it a taper thread ? or hitting something inside the tank ?
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Is it a taper thread ? or hitting something inside the tank ? I think it’s a taper thread, but didn’t think that there may be a baffle inside the tank, thanks.... will have to check (but not now ) |
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The slave cylinder will have to be pre-loaded against the arm or you will not have enough travel - basically as far as you can move the arm by "hand" against the spring about 10degs past the vertical from memory. You are not actually moving the clutch, just taking up the slack. Handily this also means that the bleed nipple will clear the oil cooler tin wear.
Run a tap through the tank boss
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Last Edit: Mar 1, 2018 19:58:28 GMT by wightfug
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zeberdee
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,042
Club RR Member Number: 2
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Good progress .
Should be ready for when , or if , the sun decides to come out & play !!
😀
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Take some wheels Get rid of the paint  Then using a £15 polishing kit Stage 1, was a rough flap wheel  Stage 2, with a less rough flapwheel  Then fitted a felt flap wheel, and firstly used white resin  Then blue resin, and gave it a wipe  And repeat  Not perfect, and need to sort the paint in the slots and behind, but much better.... but need to give the rears a polish to make them match! |
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That's a good effort on those wheels for little money but I expect a lot of work.
Congrats.
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Nice work John, they look good just need to do the rears to match.
Dan
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we need to sort some scrap and have another weigh in too!
