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Nothing wrong with fitting a BMW engine and box, there must be plenty of M10's and 5sp manual boxes available over there. But, if you don't mind me saying so, it's a bit of a cop out. You've a lovely and rare M-B which I think warrants an M-B engine and if that is out oF the question and you are going non M-B I'd much prefer to see a quality Japanese V6 in the car rather than a BMW four pot for example. Anyway, if you'd consider an M10 2.0 why not go M102 2.3 and a 5sp manual, surely there had to be a fair few W201 manuals sold in the U.S. over the years. Bear in mind too, that if you ever sold the car it would have greater appeal with a M-B engine imo. Still, I can't help thinking you're missing a trick by not using an M111 2.3 Kompressor with a 5 or 6 sp box. I reckon also, you could have a 6 sp box from Europe for possibly $500 all in. Bear in mind, that a W201 manual should mate to the M111. I know it's easy for me to make suggestions as I won't be the one trying to sort out the initial problems and doing the work but I still reckon it's worth giving an opinion if nothing more!  |
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Last Edit: Feb 14, 2017 19:12:46 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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brc76
RR Helper
Posts: 1,108 
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I managed to get a 110k mile 6 speed from a m111 in Massachusetts for $170, they are about.
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Feb 15, 2017 16:14:14 GMT
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Nothing wrong with fitting a BMW engine and box, there must be plenty of M10's and 5sp manual boxes available over there. But, if you don't mind me saying so, it's a bit of a cop out. You've a lovely and rare M-B which I think warrants an M-B engine and if that is out oF the question and you are going non M-B I'd much prefer to see a quality Japanese V6 in the car rather than a BMW four pot for example. Anyway, if you'd consider an M10 2.0 why not go M102 2.3 and a 5sp manual, surely there had to be a fair few W201 manuals sold in the U.S. over the years. Bear in mind too, that if you ever sold the car it would have greater appeal with a M-B engine imo. Still, I can't help thinking you're missing a trick by not using an M111 2.3 Kompressor with a 5 or 6 sp box. I reckon also, you could have a 6 sp box from Europe for possibly $500 all in. Bear in mind, that a W201 manual should mate to the M111. I know it's easy for me to make suggestions as I won't be the one trying to sort out the initial problems and doing the work but I still reckon it's worth giving an opinion if nothing more! The M111 does indeed share the same bellhousing with the M102/103/104, so any box from a gasser should mate up just fine. The 6-speed would be the ticket, however. I'm in no hurry, by any means, so that just gives me more time to look. The immediate appeal of a BMW is that I can get an entire running parts car for stupid cheap; a tall order for an MB! The original intent had been to use the VG30 V6, but every complete 300ZX I found was far too nice to rip into, and pulled motors needed rebuilding. I managed to get a 110k mile 6 speed from a m111 in Massachusetts for $170, they are about. Man! Where do people find these deals?! I do lots of sleuthing to find those LS1/T56 for sub-$1500, and I never seem to find them! I know a lot of folks up in NE and along the West Coast who score the same finds, but down here the car scene is trucks and ricers. |
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'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh |
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brc76
RR Helper
Posts: 1,108
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Feb 15, 2017 16:59:03 GMT
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looked on craigslist, c230 coupe parting out, it was at a scrap yard, and they threw in the shifter and crossmember for free.
they even removed it from the car for me. I know if at least a few more for similar money here.
I think the cars up here tend to rust away leaving only the running gear, therefore cheaps, as all the other cars of that age are gone too! seriously, come up here and average age of cars drops dramatically as they dissolve daily.
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looked on craigslist, c230 coupe parting out, it was at a scrap yard, and they threw in the shifter and crossmember for free. they even removed it from the car for me. I know if at least a few more for similar money here. I think the cars up here tend to rust away leaving only the running gear, therefore cheaps, as all the other cars of that age are gone too! seriously, come up here and average age of cars drops dramatically as they dissolve daily. Yikes!! Yeah, makes me glad I moved back to the South when I moved back from Germany. |
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'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh |
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Apr 29, 2019 22:04:34 GMT
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Not much has been done on this, other than I've also been given a rotary motor from an '85 RX-7, thoughts are to toss it in just to get moving, but I'm still without a rear end in this car.
Life has gotten in the way these last few years, but the time has come to once again attempt to hit it hard and actually make some progress. I'm going to measure the battery box and pick up a battery so I can begin the process of converting from 6V to 12V and get some of the electronics running.
Ultimately still don't know what I really want to do... I've never felt so indecisive. In terms of form factor, if Ford actually had that 1.3L 3-cyl motor in crate form with a manual to go with, that would fit the bill. From what I've researched they're fairly easy to get going on stand alone management.
It seems form factor is really the biggest deciding factor. I want to avoid cutting the firewall if possible; in that respect, the rotary may be the perfect fit. The high-revving may not be a fit for this car, but who knows. With the fact that the fenders come off easy enough, servicing the apex seals isn't a HUGE issue, though I'd have liked to be able to drive this car daily if I so chose. I get the feeling that rotary is going to get annoying real quick and that the fuel consumption will be absolutely atrocious compared to other alternatives. Then again, maybe it won't be.
I still have this and I wanna see it move.
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'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh |
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'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh |
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brc76
RR Helper
Posts: 1,108
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Nov 19, 2019 17:33:24 GMT
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Price on request?!?
I was hoping that you'd got some progress. That said, if I finish my merc first, I'll be amazed!
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Yeah, probably some stupid amount that they want for it, but it is well done. Could be worth the asking price.
You know, I was hoping that too, but with this new job I've been at for the last year and just life in general I just haven't had the energy to do anything.
I'd have probably been further along already if the car was actually here at the house, but having to go up to cluttered shop that I don't own (just moonlight at) with none of my tools nearby is no way to be motivated to get anything done.
That should be changing soon, as I'm in the market for a new house with some land and hopefully a shop building or two for all my things!
The car is needing to move soon, but I'm struggling to engineer a rear suspension solution. A solid axle from an S10 is pretty much right on when it comes to the width of the stock axle, but the shape of the frame to fabricate mounts for the leaf springs may put the rear of the car at an awkward angle.
I've exhaust many attempts to get a stock axle back in the car... I was offered one for $3500... Keep in mind, the one out of my car was sold for $150 and in working order. Still really sore about that whole dilemma.
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'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh |
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