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Mar 26, 2016 16:16:27 GMT
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I don't think the SLK ever came with I6s. They were either I4s or V6s. That V6 is what paved the way for an associated V8 (the M113) The M104 is the last straight-6 gasoline they used to my knowledge before switching to V6s for their 6 cylinder cars. Actually, I just logged into to EPC, which allows me to see every model of every MB ever produced worldwide, and the R170 SLK never had an I6. The R171 SLK280 (badged SLK300 in some markets) was the first to use the M272 V6. The R170 SLK320 used the M112 V6. It's really a fantastic resource! Shipping for the M129 and trans would likely be a pain
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Last Edit: Mar 26, 2016 16:17:22 GMT by Azryael
'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh
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brc76
RR Helper
Posts: 1,108
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Mar 26, 2016 23:05:32 GMT
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Massachusetts to Texas true shipping would probably be silly
I have to brush up on my model / engine combo knowledge, clearly. Off to look at it now. :-)
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Mar 26, 2016 23:22:09 GMT
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That's often the issue! Anything appropriate is on one of the coasts!
I did some test fitting, and will have more to do tomorrow, but I'll post some photos and a detailed post when I get home from a family night out.
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'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh
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Put an M112 into it and there's a fair chance you'll need to take the engine out out when you need to do plug change!
From my experience as an ex owner of a 190E 2.6 auto, W124 300E auto, several W202's and as a current owner of a 190E 2.5-16 manual and a W202 C230K manual, if and when you decide to fit a Merc engine I'd still go for the M103 on aftermarket EFI giving an easy 200 Bhp or an M111 2.3 Kompressor (there should be plenty of potential manual boxes available for both engines, even in the U.S.) and again on aftermarket EFI along with a few modifications you'd see an easy 240 Bhp plus massive torque and as a bonus it's a reasonably light engine too even with the S/Charger. But even with no mod's expect 200 Bhp without trying.
Food for thought if nothing else but being candid the Mazda engine (good engines and all that they are) is an upsetting idea in such an old Merc. Do it right, do it once!
Anyway, looking forward to progress reports.
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Last Edit: Mar 27, 2016 2:58:38 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Put an M112 into it and there's a fair chance you'll need to take the engine out out when you need to do plug change! From my experience as an ex owner of a 190E 2.6 auto, W124 300E auto, several W202's and as a current owner of a 190E 2.5-16 manual and a W202 C230K manual, if and when you decide to fit a Merc engine I'd still go for the M103 on aftermarket EFI giving an easy 200 Bhp or an M111 2.3 Kompressor (there should be plenty of potential manual boxes available for both engines, even in the U.S.) and again on aftermarket EFI along with a few modifications you'd see an easy 240 Bhp plus massive torque and as a bonus it's a reasonably light engine too even with the S/Charger. But even with no mod's expect 200 Bhp without trying. Food for thought if nothing else but being candid the Mazda engine (good engines and all that they are) is an upsetting idea in such an old Merc. Do it right, do it once! Anyway, looking forward to progress reports. There's no way I'd do a V6 haha! Having owned a 190E 2.6, 190E 1.8, 190E 2.0, a '99 C230K and now my 2.3-16, I'm very comfortable with both the M102, M103, and M111. I've intimately studied Megasquirt for both of those motors over on 190rev seeing as it's a fairly common mod over here in the US as well (along with M104 swaps, haha). I'm going to research the M111 and an associated transmission with it, as I've discovered today that I don't have as much room to play with even with an I4 as I thought, which I'll cover below. I have to admit, after spending months of working on Miatas (helping out the shop where the car currently resides) I've become less and less thrilled about them, so I feel as you do about the whole concept. I've set the motor in, but after thinking it over throughout dinner and all that, I'm probably going to yank it back out tomorrow. Anyway! On to what I attempted to do today! Here's the junky test motor and trans bolted together for the sake of test fitting (notice the exhaust manifold is on the driver's [US perspective] side): Set in, sitting a little high: Problem number one, already discovered. The gearbox for this thing is ungodly long: This could be a problem I face even with an M102/M111 (I would surely have to move the seats BACK with an M103!). From this perspective you can see I could notch, move, or do something with the front crossmember (though I'm worried about the portion that connects to the front suspension and cutting/moving that) to allow the motor to sit further forward, but that may impact room between the radiator and the fan!: I'm bringing up the front fenders and panels tomorrow to put them on to get an ever better idea of how much space I do or don't have. Here they are tucked into my truck: Now, MB gearboxes tend to be much shorter, so that may not end up being an issue if I go with an MB I4, but it will be even with the M103. I honestly feel I'd have to actually move the front seats back, and I'd rather not have to. If I go the M111 route, since I likely won't have an entire donor car to work with, that will leave me with making sure I can manage the motor with an aftermarket engine management system like Megasquirt and because of potential height constraints, I may be looking at having to delete the supercharger. I believe all the M111s here in the US will be supercharged to begin with. Again, I'll get a better idea in the morning once I've gotten the fenders and panels set in place. Now, bringing up again that the exhaust dumps on the left side of the motor for the B6, that could potentially interfere with the steering column, even if I make a custom exhaust manifold. MB motors all dump on the right, and you can see there's nothing vital on the right side (because it's a LHD car). The intake manifold should sit ABOVE the steering column and not pose a problem, especially if I can move the motor further forward. At this point, I'm leaning toward sourcing an M102 or M111. As much as I'd love to do a straight 6, and love the M103 for its potential, there's just not enough space and I don't want to cut up the interior. Free or not, the B6 is NOT the way to go.
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Last Edit: Mar 27, 2016 8:51:30 GMT by Azryael
'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh
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You can shorten the gearbox 4 or 5 inches, if you look for a a website called the mite there is lots of info on shortening the box.
I think a stock exhaust will foul the steering column but if you are going turbo it,the manifold and downpipe can probably be made to miss the column.
Like most people on this thread I would like to see MB power but needs must,cracked on its going to be a cool car whatever.
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Ginetta G15 BMW K1100 conversion Sold Mk1 Mx5 on ITB'S Sold TVR Chimaera 400 supercharged MR2 Red Roadster 2ZZ Bee*R 324 Skyline 95 Cherokee Jeep
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You can shorten the gearbox 4 or 5 inches, if you look for a a website called the mite there is lots of info on shortening the box. I think a stock exhaust will foul the steering column but if you are going turbo it,the manifold and downpipe can probably be made to miss the column. Like most people on this thread I would like to see MB power but needs must,cracked on its going to be a cool car whatever. Yeah, in the last portion of the above post I stated I'm going with either an M102 or an M111. Won't have gearbox length issues with either of those, and there won't be exhaust issues since the exhaust dumps from the other side of the MB motors. If I use an M102, the 5-speed from a 2.6 190E will do just fine, and seeing as it uses external shift rods, I just lengthen the forks for the shifter, and lengthen or shorten the shift rods as needed. The 6-speed for the M111 is also shorter and therefore won't be much of an issue either. TL;DR - No more Miata motor!
Now, here's a crude photoshop highlighting some potential ideas for moving the motor forward: The crossmember could be cut and left in the same position, but lower about and inch or two without sacrificing structural integrity. I don't think flexing of the frame would be a concern. Those joints I've circled in red seem to provide vertical stability to each side, so I could theoretically reveres that long rods going throw the bushings, and weld on a smaller crossmember at the very front where the second set of red arrows go to maintain that support. So long as the height of those joints remains the same, it should matter which direction they're facing so long as they structurally sound in their new location. Of course, if those are NOT designed to move, I could just weld a bar to the top of both of them, and then weld the bar to the frame. What I will do is take a jack and place it under one of the wheel hubs and see what articulates. Sort those two things and it would allow me to set the motor a bit lower, further forward, and allow for additional clearance of the supercharger if I decided to run an M111!
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'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh
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Mar 27, 2016 14:55:54 GMT
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Wow what a lovely looking ol merc and loving the restomod ideas you have. This is going to look great when up and running with the old patina finish. I know you're keeping it all within the merc bloodline but would a jag v6 fit as they are pretty compact. Bookmarked.
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Mar 27, 2016 15:59:08 GMT
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Thanks! Way back I'd actually considered a VG30 V6 from a Nissan, but after taking measurements discovered that even it was on the wide. It would have fit (or any V6 for that matter) if I cut into the bulkhead. Not something I want to do at this point!
I should be able to get a motor with a manual trans off LKQ for around $1000, give or take.
Today I'm going to use the Miata motor a little more just to get an idea of spacing when I plop the fenders and what not on. Unfortunately, I still haven't gotten a key to the shop, and someone was supposed to be here and no one is! So I'm just going to get myself an early lunch.
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'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh
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Mar 27, 2016 21:36:20 GMT
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''The 6-speed for the M111 is also shorter and therefore won't be much of an issue either.''
From what I recall that box is cable operated, so may be even more advantageous to use?
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Mar 27, 2016 21:40:01 GMT
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Why not just drop the 170 body onto a W201 platform, looks like wheel base length could be similar... ...I'll get my coat!
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Last Edit: Mar 27, 2016 21:52:32 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Mar 27, 2016 22:44:47 GMT
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''The 6-speed for the M111 is also shorter and therefore won't be much of an issue either.'' From what I recall that box is cable operated, so may be even more advantageous to use? It is indeed! Thinking all around that the M111 is the superior choice. I've owned one before, it can make gobs more power than the M102 if I wanted it to, already comes supercharged out of the box, etc.! Why not just drop the 170 body onto a W201 platform, looks like wheel base length could be similar... ...I'll get my coat! Hah! That's a little more work than I want to do! That would actually involve cutting up the 190 down to the floor, then cutting the floor off the 170, trying to weld it all together, then there's the steering column... and so much more! Plus, I love W201s far too much to ever willingly cut one up. I'd end up saving it and have another 190 in the family! The body of the 170 will actually lift off the frame, which will be nice when I prep it for paintwork after it's running. So, progress today for the test fitting... photos below (warning, they're gonna be fullsize): Fenders and panels fit. You can imagine the intake being on the opposite of the motor with the M111, but you can see it's a tight fit, but the motor is sitting slightly off center to the left (facing it anyway): A view of the space on the driver's side: Passenger side space, you can see the forward most part of the intake has a little clearance, but there's plenty of space behind it for various reservoirs and what not: A shot from afar: Hood (or bonnet) closes!!: So, I've learned a lot from this today. The motor could easily sit back another few inches if it could sit lower and slightly further back (gearbox is preventing this, but I didn't want to pull it, yank the box off, set it back in, and so on). There's plenty of space in the front behind the grilled for a radiator and clearance for the fan (especially if the motor is moved back some). I recall there being electric fan kits available for the M111 that seemed to work, and the stock M111 radiator off a 202 may actually fit! Being able to set it back with a shorter gearbox will also mean there's more clearance on the sides for intake/exhaust. That would also eliminate the need to potentially cut up that front crossmember at all! Now, I can only go back so far, and I really won't know how much more space I get until I have the motor and transmission I want. A few of you, and I included had tossed around cutting into the bulkhead, well, any cutting would have to be done on the top and fairly close to the center. I don't want to cut into the portion that makes the footwell (I'm 6'0") as it would become even more cramped forcing me to move the front seats back, resulting in less leg room in the rear. Overall, I've gotten a much better sensing of what I'm working with, and I'm confident I can make it happen! I had concerns about trying to track down an original rear suspension again (it's an independent suspension setup) with body roll and what not, but I figured adapting a beefy sway bar in the rear wouldn't be too much of a challenge at all and would reduce the sensation of body roll significantly. Beyond that, the other modification would be adapting a beefier differential to handle the motor (likely one from a donor car if I could score one). Probably won't be much progress for the next two weeks with everything else going on, but after that I should be able to focus on the car, getting the pieces I need, and getting it running. That is the key at this very moment. It doesn't need to be pretty right now. That'll happen after!
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Last Edit: Mar 27, 2016 23:08:38 GMT by Azryael
'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh
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Just an update for those who were watching or curious: I haven't found a parts car for a reasonable price, nor had the time to really make any other progress.
What free time I do have is spent on the 500SE.
I'm looking for a different place to keep and work on the car, as every time I go to the shop where I currently keep it, I'm dragged into fixing cars.
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'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh
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Plans have changed for this car yet again!
Since I've now decided to swap out the M117 in my 500SE in favor of an LS-series motor, I will taking that M117 with the T5 I picked up, and putting it into this car.
That will mean I have to cut into the firewall, but that's okay. I wanted to preserve as much of the original body as I could, but this makes more sense. This will also give me a chance to refresh the M117 and EFI it, instead of continuing to spend time looking for a 6-speed M111 car, with which I'd have electronics to fiddle with.
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'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh
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Nov 26, 2016 10:33:37 GMT
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Liking this altogether.
Hope you get a place where you can work.
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Nov 26, 2016 11:33:04 GMT
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Don´t know if you need some inspiration? Wow!! Now that's well done! Granted, I want to keep it more of a classic look, but that's a hotrod well done without looking too cliché. Liking this altogether. Hope you get a place where you can work. Thanks! What I'm really short on these days is time. Can't start on this until I have the 500SE up and running with an LS and the T56; don't want two cars down at once.
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'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh
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Plans have changed for this car yet again! ......I will taking that M117 with the T5 I picked up, and putting it into this car. ............ This will also give me a chance to refresh the M117 and EFI it, instead of continuing to spend time looking for a 6-speed M111 car, with which I'd have electronics to fiddle with. That's a great move. With the torque and power from the M117 what will you do for brakes and suspension? Rock on!
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Plans have changed for this car yet again! ......I will taking that M117 with the T5 I picked up, and putting it into this car. ............ This will also give me a chance to refresh the M117 and EFI it, instead of continuing to spend time looking for a 6-speed M111 car, with which I'd have electronics to fiddle with. That's a great move. With the torque and power from the M117 what will you do for brakes and suspension? Rock on! On that I'm not really sure yet... it had drum brakes up front, don't remember what the rear had since that whole assembly was sold from underneath me. I really don't know about the suspension. Front is an independent deal (the rear was too), and all that needs is some refreshing of the components. Considered a solid rear axle from a small pickup, but likely need to do some sleuthing around the web to see what people have done with the rear-ends of these cars that chose to go for a larger motor. What I do know is that I'll be able to make a lot more space with the M117 by losing the power steering pump (the steering in this car is surprisingly easy to manipulate, very smooth even after all these years) and the AC compressor which is failing anyway. I'm looking for suggestions on the rear suspension matter, so I think what I'll do is take a photo of where the factory subframe would sit, and see what the consensus is as for what I should roll with.
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'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16 '84 Euro 500SE ~100k miles '51 Euro 170S M117 Swap Project?! '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport ~42k miles '09 E350 ~51k miles '98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8 ~Josh
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Google finds several 170 rods. Two of them from germany. A grey chopped one with an AlfaRomeo V6 - it features a W114/115 front axle with R107 discs.No details for the rear except some added discs. And a rusty one, that was featured on a german fan page. It has a 5,9 litre Mopar and an A833 gear box. Front axle is from a 1952 170 combined with discs of a 500SL (R107). Rear axle is a 300SE 6.3 unit with discs of a W126. Sorry, german texts only, but the pics will speak for themselves... Hope you do not mind the hijack. I was going to hit Google Translate, but the photos speak for themselves. Hopefully these two very different styles and approaches will get even more discussion going. And the other.
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Last Edit: Nov 27, 2016 8:50:15 GMT by grizz
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Odd but to me, the Alfa actually looks the more period engine! Maybe it's the whole Ford flathead thing going on. Could just be me though! Just needs two more cylinders!
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Last Edit: Nov 27, 2016 12:11:52 GMT by georgeb
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