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I've been a big fan of CFs for along time now and its good to see somebody taking one on as a project. Personally, I think wouldnt lower it. I really like the demo pictures you have posted,but I think the best stance for an early CF1 is that of the mystery machine in "scooby doo -monsters unleashed". Love that film so much and the way the van in it rolls is perfect. Looking forward to your progress. Just had a look. thats not far off the height I want mine. To look like that it will need to come down a bit. |
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I love this thread your list of priorities are just like mine lol but commer luckily didn't have the camber issues so cut the springs in half and added caravan towing rubbers n removed some springs from the pack at the rear .
It can stay like this till its back on the road again then I'll start collecting a list of parts to go air ride
Great van can't wait to see how it turns out good luck
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Why chop so much then add assisters?
To stiffen it more? Make it softer?
why not just leave another coil on?
Asking as I want a lower and stiffer (but not too stiff) so had considerd this.
I think I am in danger of overthinking this.
Its a spare front end so I may as well just chop the springs, move a pivot and whack it on and see how it sits.
I can always refine the set up on the original front end.
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guessing it goes to positive camber when lowered ?
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No, negative camber.
1.5 degree isnt alot, probably liveable with.
But the tyres will be expensive and I plan to use it for holidays so id rather the tyres lasted.
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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I would look at making the top arm adjustable at the ball joint end rather than messing with the inner pickups which will affect bump steer being a double arm setup ,
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Ive seen arms that have rose joints at the top pivot.
Problem with that is you have to remove the top arm pin to adjust them. That means decompressing the spring everytime. Would be a major ball ache.
Can you explain more about the bump steer issue you spot?
Is it because the pivot point for the lower arm would change in relation to the pivot point of the track rod?
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Last Edit: Apr 4, 2016 15:14:50 GMT by VW
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Hi, The steering rack inner balljoint should be inline between the top and bottom wishbone inner pivot points to eliminate bumpsteer in the straught ahead position. So strictly speaking if you move one of them you should also modify the rack.
Colin
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Thought as much.
What sort of miss alignment would you say is getting too much?
Do millimetres matter or centimeters, or are we talking am inch before things get bad?
I havent had chance tonight to work out how much id have to move a pivot.
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I added spring assistors so that when I go over a big bump it helps to dampen the shock like an inbuilt bump stop with out raising the height
Seems to work ok it's not harsh when it's bouncing on bumps
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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I dropped my van 5" by cutting the strut tops out and adding a tube to let the strut up inside and then re shaped the steering arms to get Them level at ride height . This was a Mac strut so straight forward but i have a track car with double arm setup that was lowered a lot and never really felt right as it put the roll Center underground . New uprights with the spindle moved out the arms in the right position to move in the arc they travel in and it's a different car , If cutting the chassis to move the whole assembly up is a big job then a spindle might be the way forward and not as hard to make as you think  |
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As much as id like to give it a whirl, I don't think I'm up to making my own spindles!
I'm trying to avoid any situation where a failure of anything ive modified or welded would end up in collapse.
I did think about cutting the top arms up and adding adjusters and rose joints. But a modified arm snapping would be bad.
I'm not too fussed how it handles, its not for spirited driving, but ill do my best not to ruin the geometry too much.
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Moving the lot upwards has got to be the best solution everything stays where it is just higher up in the van
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Indeed.
Could probably only get an inch though, but a bit of channeling and a tiny spring chop would get me the 2"-2.5" I want.
I need to have a good look at the van itself and see how much room I have for engine raising.
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I set the mixture up on mot stations analyzer today, it was lean. Any thoughts on why the weber 34itc would need its mixture screw 6.5 turns out?! As you all probably know from my other thread ive also been playing with a new bonnet. But all this is pointless if the van is still too high so decided to look more at the suspension. I also decided I'm not going to worry so much as this is a spare front end. Ill just go for it and see what happens. I finished stripping it and took some more measurements. 1" off spring, 2.5" drop, bottom arm pivot moved 9mm in and as the mount slopes it will also lower the pivot point so ill raise it back up too. Then raise the bump stop 'stop' 1.5" and we should be good. This is how the bottom pivot mounts  So I cut the bottom off and decided to cut the mount hole sections out, 9mm off center.  then swap em side to side. Ill trim them so they also drop further into the crossmember.  I then saw some flat steel and wondered if I'm best off just welding in new flat bar and re drilling  too narrow but it turns out the opening I cut is 75mm and we have about 10' of 75x6 at work so might still do it this way, easier than cutting loads of bits up. So for now ill clean all the bits and alter the bump stops and ill return to mounts next week. Edit... changed my mind again, this is an experimental front end so ive not raised the pivot. One side all welded back up, other side and bump stops later. |
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Last Edit: Apr 9, 2016 15:56:10 GMT by VW
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Apr 15, 2016 17:51:58 GMT
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Why not fit an XJS front suspension, it will give you good brakes and power steering.
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Apr 15, 2016 19:10:34 GMT
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Ive thought about it.
Back end too.
Main reason is having no where to work on it so cant do anything that involved yet.
The van has to live on the road.
I'm hoping to move house this year so it will get rebuild number 1 now, welding done, white paint repaired, as low as is easy and a wheel swap.
Then ill use it for a few holidays and next year when ive moved somewhere with a drive/garage ill re paint it and get it proper low, whatever it takes.
I have a workshop but no vehicle access.
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Apr 15, 2016 19:16:09 GMT
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As this is now back at the top, Front end is all modified ready for a quick repaint before swapping out. Should be 2.5" drop but might cut up the towers to drop another inch, need to check out how much room I have. I raised the bump stop stops, moved bottom pivot in to counter the negative camber and chopped the springs. Ill see how it drives before making any decision if what ive done works and if anything else is needed. I'm rebuilding the spare rack and cleaning the ball joints, but more will happen once ive thrown a few hundred quid at newarks vendors this weekend  |
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qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,420
Club RR Member Number: 52
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Apr 15, 2016 19:50:28 GMT
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Looking forward to seeing it at its new height!
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Apr 19, 2016 17:02:46 GMT
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This is still going on. I finished modifying the crossmember, you can see here the moved pivot points amd the kicked up area where the bump stop hits  I cleaned it all and gave it a quick coat of 'I'm too impatient to wait for por15 delivery' hammerite. Cleaned and rebooted the balljoints and cleaned and painted the arms.  I also stripped, cleaned all the internals and painted the steering rack but managed to break a pinion bearing! So ill nick a bearing from the old rack when I swap the suspension over. The new spare rack has no wear at all. The balljoints I cleaned were great too and the brake drums have no sign whatsoever of any lip. I don't think by the van this front end came off did many miles. |
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