1979 VW B1 Passat Estate - Ready for MOT

What about getting a normal single heater valve and plumbing in something like this just after it?
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastic-Pipe-Joiners-Connectors-All-Variations-And-Sizes-/190885975343?var=&hash=item2c71b0d52f:m:mKbKAwF48Z6HN3-ZkNupaRw

Or a big version of this (if you can find one)
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20Pcs-5mm-Dia-Plastic-Hose-Pipe-Connector-Joiner-for-Hyundai-Toyota-Honda-/181959689011?hash=item2a5da48333:g:gU4AAOSw7FRWbGO7

List doesn't look too bad really.

The wipers are probably just a dry linkage,strip it out clean and lube.
Rear washer jet you might be able to clear it in situ with a pin if it's just a blocked jet.

Brakes probably seals gone on the master cylinder or leaky wheel cylinders.You'll really want to refresh/renew most of the braking system including any heavily corroded metal pipes and flexi's too.

The heater pipe stubs through the bulkhead will be attached to the heater matrix.Unless they are damaged i would just replace the rubber pipes that connect to the stubs in the engine bay.

Brake lights if it's not bulbs or corroded bulb contacts will likely be the switch on the pedal.Not familiar with the one on the Passat but most you can take apart with a bit of care and clean up the contacts.

The puzzing one is only 1st gear working,what happens with the rest? Can you select the gear but no drive or just can't select at all?

Weird,is neutral ok or does that have drive as well?
I'd hazard a guess at either the linkage being the problem or the selector fork in the box itself.Hopefully the linkage as that would be simpler !It could be the linkage is detatched or so sloppy it's always in first and moving the stick is literally just moving the stick.

Stainless y piece would be fine as would the right kind of plastic.

So last night I bought a 2 way heater valve which is for a jetta but looks the same. Need to wait till it arrives before I buy the y piece and corresponding pipe.

Also got myself some new yellow vacuum lines as mine are pretty nasty and blocked. Should look nice.

Also rather struggling with finding coolant pipes - my OEM ones are all discontinued and awkward sizes, e.g. 32mm outlet to 24mm inlet (just an example). Am I just going to have to buy pipes at one bore width, then get connection downsizes to fit? Probs the only way! Where's good for getting a variety of pipes and sizes?

Thanks tarus Zero luck on a single hose - going with making some home style hoses using reducers and different bore pipes.

Baby update for the moment otherwise!
Got some bits delivered and on order; some new bright yellow vac lines, a variety of coolant pipes, y-pieces, reducers and clamps, a new heater valve that *hopefully* fits, and some new bolts for the thermo housing to stop the pesky leak. I'm praying once this lot goes in the engine can be ticked of, for the moment!

Looking good. Re. the brakes. First thing is to soak all the bleed nipples with penetrating oil and let it get well into them. Plusgas is the best - 90% of the time it does the job. For the other 10% my trick is to apply the Plusgas, wait a minute, then spray with WD40. The dispersant character seems to drive the Plusgas into the joint just that wee bit more. It has rarely failed - even on 40 year old Vauxhalls!

To replace the brake fluid easily use a Gunsons Eezibleed. I've got one handy so no need to buy your own - just let me know when you're getting near that stage. So long as the cap fits your master cylinder tank it's the best way to replace the fluid. (I work bonkers hours - including most weekends - so let me know in advance.)

Re. the water leak, I'd make a new gasket and use a smear of sealant. Don't go mad with it, any excess will squeeze out inside the joint and bits can break off which then get into the coolant system and may cause a blockage.

Just looked on ETKA and the thermostat o ring appears bog standard 50x4 mm as used on pretty much everything up to 1997.

Thanks guys.

Really not had much time on this recently, busy with work.

The o-ring was brand new so I know that wasn't the problem. I pulled the 'stat again and found why it was leaking.

I give you exhibit A


The housing was crusty and badly pitted, quite a large dink in it too which is where it look to be leaking from. The surface on the pump (where this bolts into) was also quite bad.

I spent an hour or so in some very awkward positions with some 80 grit and wet and dry, eventually got a nice smooth finish.

You can see the heavy pit mark. I didn't want to grind any lower incase I caused further problems.

Picked up some gasket sealant instead and gave a light coat in the hole, plus round the o-ring surface just to help. Left this to cure over the weekend, filled up with water last night and the leaks have all gone So, other than a cambelt change, the ENGINE IS DONE! (Until the next thing breaks!)

Also jacked the car up at the front to have a gander at the breaks. The wheels were an to get off, but some penetrating fluid did the job. 

Can someone tell me what I'm looking at? I know it's a disk break (lol), but I've no idea how anything comes off. No obvious bolts etc. 


I did pull out the front pad and some pins, but nothing else would budge.


Haynes is being useless again with phrases like 'simply slide the spreader off'. What's a spreader, how do I slide it off, which way does it go, why won't it budge? Etc etc...
I think once I know how it's supposed to come off I will be fine, but if things are seized on, it's hard to tell (when you don't know what you're doing) it it's even supposed to come off in the first place.

Anyone have any suggestions? I'm assuming all wheels etc have to come off to bleed the break lines? I think I've identified the nipples but I don't know what to do with them (fnar fnar fnar...)

Also as a cheeky bonus, here's a pic of my seat belt clips. I've never seen them like this before, was quite confused when I first tried them!

Love the progress you are making on this car. For a novice, you are diving right in and tackling some difficult issues. ....(though by now you are past the "novice" stage).

Glad you stopped the leak at the T-stat housing....I would get a spare housing for future "just in case"...that one is rusty around the base to the point of the material there being possibly structurally compromised. Its not an urgent priority, but it should be replaced at some point.

as for the brakes, Penetrating oil on the right places will help you immensely. basically, there should be pins holding the pads in place. the pads should be able to move slightly on the pins when you apply the brakes, and then again when you let off the brakes. (they only move a few mills back and forth)

There should be a retaining device, or a clip(s) for the caliper (the thing that holds the pads). Once off, the caliper SHOULD slide off...but you will probably have to work it loose with a prybar from both the top and bottom a little at a time until it begins to loosen and move up away from the disc. There will be one more pad behind the disc which may be holding everything in place a bit.....

There will also be 2 retaining bolts for the caliper mount (the thing that, well, holds the caliper) These bolts are on the BACK of the wheel assy. or behind the disk as you are looking at it. they will need the penetrating oil. (you do not HAVE to remove this, unless you want to get the disc off)

lightly sand the pads (don't breathe the dust) so they are clean and smooth. you can use roughish sandpaper for this leaving the pads with a slight texture....just so long as they are not sanded with fine paper...you don't want shiny pads!....Same for the rotors...they should look very clean.


I like to get the discs off, (there is a screw on the front hub part of the disc that holds it in place. more penetrating oil! I have found that an impact screw driver is best for these as they can be a challenge to break loose). clean them up with a wire wheel, and spray the non contact surfaces with galvanizing compound our high temp paint. Galvanizing compound seems to resist rust much better, though. Paint the caliper mount with your choice of silver or yellow for some flash...they will look great.

here is our passat (06). It looked quite like yours do before the painting. the rotor is holding up quite well, as is the mount. The caliper gets dirty, though!



Also, do yourself a favor and use some silver thread compound on all your wheel bolts. (just a little) as it will allow proper torque and removal of the bolts in future.

keep up the good work...looks great!

Jp