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With the wheel sensors fitted it was back from under the car for a while. I marked up and inserted some heavy duty Rivnuts and mounted the battery isolation relay. This will be controlled from pushbuttons rather than the normalFIA red switch.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Happy with that i mounted the coils. The game at the moment is to get everything mounted where it should be before i start the wiring. The coils are AEM IGN1A TTL controlled coils, i am using 4 but they will be operated in wasted mode. I wondered how i was going to mount them but Maven Motorsport have a eat solution so:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Which then meant i needed to make a plate for that to mount on!  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr And in place  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr I also cracked on and made the fuel hoses and mounted the throttle linkage. The throttle linkage only fits one way and is a pain. It will work ok but for the money i wasn't that impressed as it means the cable comes in with a sharpish turn next to the bulkhead.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr |
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 488
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Is the remote oil filter head just for the extra 2 sensors? Did you consider making a sandwich plate to mount them directly on the side of the engine? I'm sure it's not a problem for a man of your machinery.
The reason I ask is just that it's a lot of extra pipework and plumbing just for a couple of sensors.
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lebowskiGood question and the answer is no. More or less. The main driver was adding a heat exchanged between coolant and oil to try and get the oil to heat up quicker. Sometimes on early year or late year events the engine oil isn't really up to temp before the start of the run so i have to take the long way round if possible or just start the car really early. That meant routing the coolant pipes round to the other side of the engine or run the oil round to the heat exchanger (in this case a Cosworth Modine). I then chose the remote head to allow two sensor mounts to make it easier to wire them. The remote mounting of them off the engine came from a couple of people i spoke to in the Engine building and motorsport team game. Both laughed and said the sensors will fail fairly quickly due to the vibrations. Their experience is with rally cars but i think it is good practice all the same. Hence the opportunity to muck about for weeks making stuff. :-)
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 488
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Fair enough. It looks like the brm has the water pipes in roughly the same spot as the pushrod, so you have a choice of oil pipes from one side to the other, or water pipes from one side to the other.
I have one of those heat exchangers too, but it's mounted under the oil filter in the standard location. My water pump and plumbing is all on that side though.
Are you running with a heater? When is it going to be driving again?
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Heater is mounted but not plumbed in. Its been like that for a long time. The blower works and that is enough to keep the condensation off the screen due to the interior getting hot.
Driving again?
Definitely this year. :-)
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I had fitted a passenger seat once for a Track Day but it wasn't ideal so i decided to fit a new set of the latest spec FIA type mounts as they can be unbolted and thus no weight penalty in normal running. Not the most interesting of photos to be honest.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr As part of the floor mounted pedal box changes i need to change the clutch release to a hydraulic one. I chose to go concentric. So the gearbox needed to come out. I have also got some ARP flywheel bolts to fit so its two birds and one stone. With the box out i noticed two things; the gear lever was very floppy & needed to be bent slightly to take into account the new seating position and the gearbox has not been rebuilt in over 10 years of abuse. The gearstick is a 'rose jointed' quick shift type and the spherical bearing was allowing nearly 4mm of lateral and radial movement. So its knackered. The new bearing is on the left and is a much better quality one than the original.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr The gearbox has gone off to BGH Geartech for some mods, one of which i am very excited about. Off it goes  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Next job will be the steering column. New bushes and more. |
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 488
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Is it a type 9 you have fitted to this?
I was also thinking of sending my box to BGH for their strengthening mods, but mainly for a longer first gear, as the 3.6 first is hopelessly short.
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Are you going to fit EPS whilst doing all this work? When I fitted it to my Escort it made so much difference to times (and the sweat factor at the end of a run). Out of interest, how much roughly to post a gearbox? I have 2 that I need to post for repair work and an idea of price would be a great help.
Cheers
Phil
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lebowski yes a type 9 Tran X with a 2.4 first. I had used a standard type 9 back in the late 80's in a Sunbeam TI and that was a trial with the 3.6 first. I have tried the 2.9 ratio first and that makes an interesting gearbox for easy road use. But for me i always wanted a slightly closer set of ratios all the way through. With your turbo it shouldn't be such an issue though! jonsey £40 and BGH arranged it. I just had to print out a label and a man and van turned up and took it away. I did think of EPS and even had a modified column with EPS for the Sunbeam but i sold it back to Mick as he is older and needs it more than i do (don't tell him that though). It has come under the label of 'Mission Creep' at present. But i am providing a dedicated output from the PDM for an EPS upgrade in the future. Maybe work for Lockdown 4.0 and 5.0 ........
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 488
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2.4 is pretty tall, but I guess you're probably using a 4.4 cwp.
I think for a road car fairly long gears are nice. Something around 2.8 would probably be about right with my 3.89 diff.
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The gearshift was done and tested in free air. Cant change gear with it until the gearbox comes back. The weld cleaned up well!  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Now, i am fairly tall at 6ft 3" or 190cm. With the pedal box being on the floor it has exacerbated an issue that was already a little bit of pain. That is the steering wheel is too far away when my legs are right! SO i moved the seat back a bit and down. It couldn't go to far back otherwise i would be outside the rear cage.... Basically i need to position the steering wheel closer to me and lower. However, that would mean the steering wheel would be in the way when i try to get in and out of the car. Put-on! So enter a quick release steering boss.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Which is excellent but who can spot the problem in this photo?  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Yep, that's right. How do you change the top column bush as the steering lock slot is in the way? As its a non MOT item and the ignition switch assembly isn't used i thought i might as well take that bit off the shaft so i can fit a new bush. That i did and then looked at the bushes. They look sad  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr These are readily available but i couldn't get any quickly and i thought they might be a bit light duty so i made my own! I got some black nylon rod. I have a lathe. I have vernier callipers.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr That was the lower bush done. The upper bush i wanted to make a bit bigger and sit in the outer column to a deeper length to give the top end more support as the steering wheel is going to be further out. More machining.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Led to this  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr This now goes a fair way into the outer column to provide more support. The final issue is the longitudinal float. The bottom of the column has a Sun Ray washer set at a distance of approx 1.0mm to give a small amount of movement and no bind. In the standard arrangement the top is held in place by the steering wheel boss/Indicator striking bush. I therefore needed to replicate this some how. Measured what it needed to be, which meant the whole assembly was in and out of the car a couple of times. I made a bush with the correct length, added a washer to spread the load at the top and called it done.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr |
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One of the things i had noticed prior to all these changes was that the steering wheel would move around a bit as the column wasn't fully secured by the mounts for some reason, although it all bolted up nice and tight. Lots of flex going on. Having a look at it the bracket pressing coming off the bulkhead is reasonable but the captive nuts are on a single flap off of this bracket, so even when bolted up there is a fair amount of flex at that point.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr First i thought i would need to make a big change here but i didnt want to as this an original Avenger Tiger and will be returned to the road as a road car once i fully retire and build the new Hillclimb shell. So what could i do? I thought the quickest method of getting a decent upgrade in rigidity was to stop those flaps/ears flexing. So thought if i make this  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Bolt it to here  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr And then weld it here  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr It would distribute the loads a bit better. And it does. Not totally rigid as the bulkhead flexes a tad but an order of magnitude better. In a quest to get the steering wheel where i need it i decided to drop the column slightly - just like a Mini - so knocked up some nylon spacers. I had a bit of an accident whilst doing so though and needed a new cut off tool..... Anyway, lesson learnt. Lowered.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Spacers are 10mm and 5mm so i can adjust it if necessary. Feeling super chuffed i tried the steering wheel on it.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Peachy. Or in a Fast Show style: Gripped. Sorted. But it is missing something. All good competition cars now days have buttons on the steering wheel. I need one. I must have one. So.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr This button once pressed activates a certain sub code via this interrupt to cause my right foot to enter 'modulation' mode and hence Launch Control. I f that doesn't work i will switch on the Launch Control in the ECU. Here it is being tested - i have shrunk.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr |
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Been quiet but things have been happening, I've been hard at the 'A Designing' bit of the wiring loom. Any road up. Steering wheel and its position sorted so it was time to sort out the position of the Dash and make sure its in the right place to see it. Upshot was that it wasn't. Bum. Back to the CAD and do another 3D print. I needed to get the Dash lower due mainly to lowering the steering wheel and myself. I thought first i would 'modify' the existing version of the dash mount to just check.....  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Which led to this:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Ah hang on i forgot to fit the Catch Tank.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Fits in there in with some nice slots  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Fits in proper job still.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr |
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Apr 12, 2021 13:47:17 GMT
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So, having everything mounted that needs a connection electrically i thought i could start the Wiring planning and Design. The ECU and PDU are going on top of the transmission tunnel and the switch panel above it on the Dash. The switch panel came with a Deutsch DT connector but that's a bit big so i swapped it for a DTM. DTM uses smaller pins. I had a bit of a win on Ebay as the DMC crimp tool cam with the correct turret head for Deutsch pins at a bloody good price.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Mounted.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr The mount for the ECU and PDU  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr The PDU  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr I then sat down and started planning and researching. I thought progress with the car had been slow to this point but my grief it slowed down with visible output from then! Any road up. Done lots of planning and here is an example of the detail, this is the ECU tab. It shows all the wires leaving the ECU and where they go to. It also lists each connector, its part number and contacts.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr That meant i could do a dummy 'see where the loom goes' etc.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr The whole loom  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Then measuring and creating a Template. The Template is just on paper but i may go back and put properly into a drawing package at some point. maybe. But as can be seen above they are embedded into the overall design so probably not worth it.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr |
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Last Edit: Jun 29, 2021 15:55:04 GMT by nevtiger
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Jun 29, 2021 16:22:53 GMT
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Not had an update for a while. Its been busy but as i am sat here with a broken arm and three broken ribs it means i cant do much. Busy because i built a shed and a gazebo amongst other things. The shed was needed to get the curse word out of the garage. The gardening and diy curse word that has no place in MY garage. As i told the wife when she couldn't hear.... Following the dummy run using the rope stuff could happen: I first hooked up the ECU, PDU, Dash and switch panel up on the bench. ECU, PDU and Dash talk via CAN1, the Dash and switch panel on CAN2. ECU and Dash have an Ethernet connection, this also goes to an external port for comms to the laptop for tuning and setting up. The PDU has its own Ethernet connection o a laptop for setting up.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr This all was powered up and seen if it at least communicated. It did. The Dash had a base setup that corresponded with the ECU. ECU to Dash comms was fairly easy to sort as they are standard (in terms of the Life presets). I needed to change some outputs of the ECU from Hard to Soft CAN due to using the PDU and inputs as I'm using the Blink Marine switch panel... First job was to get the Dash and switch panel talking on CAN2. The Blink can use CANOpen or CAN J1939, one needs a message to ask it for something and the other one just broadcasts changes (gross simplification alert). So i needed to understand these first and have a play. The Dash acts as a 'Hub' so can take stuff from CAN2 and put it on CAN1 and vice versa. Anyway first off i managed to get the switch panel to react to commands from the dash and then the dash to react to the switch panel You have no idea the joy i felt when i made this happen:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr I must be awesome right? Yeah, it only took me *a long time* to get to that stage. I mean long enough to worry if i would get it sorted this year........ Well that was simple. Now all i have to do is work how to translate between each Bus so that switch inputs go to the Dash on CAN2 and pop out on CAN1.... Standby, that only took me *even more long time* |
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Just had a bit of a catch up on this
Fantastic work as always
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Jun 30, 2021 14:35:48 GMT
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As i had sort of sorted how to control the Switch panel i moved to setting up the system so that a switched press would make something happen at the PDU. Essentially, i wanted Lights, Flash, Turn Indicators, Ignition On, Engine Start, Wipers, Wash and Horn. Then i wanted the output from the PDU to control the colour of the switch. These are Red, Green Blue. Any fault i wanted to turn the appropriate switch Red. Then the other colours as per their function as whether they turn Blue or Green. The PDU can be entirely controlled from the CANBus. The Life Racing set ups allow an amazing amount of flexibility and pretty much allow any Byte/Bit combination you want as long as it isn't clashing with the ECU presets. The next step was to set up the PDU. Setting the inputs and outputs - both hard and soft. The set up software is easy to use being basically a logic diagram. The CAN Byte range for each output and input is set up separately.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Here is shot of the logic diagram for the Lights. This was a bit of 'A Think' needed as i have set it up so different length pushes on the switch do different things, so a long push is lights on and then short push is lights on Main beam. Then there is the Flash button and that has to feed a Flash regardless of whether lights are Off, On or Main! The Logic allows all sorts of Latches so i ve set it up to Latch and Flash three times which can all be set up in each element of the piece of Logic.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr The PDU can be run in test mode and the Logic tested. After a few minor changes it was all happy and working. Right then it was the challenge of translation in the Dash as a Hub. First i had to identify each 'Function' then identify that 'Function' with a CAN Byte and Bit, or a whole Byte depending on what the Function is. I simple On/Off is easy and just using a single Bit but if you are transmitting a Pressure then you might need the resolution of 8 Bits. My biggest issue that stopped me getting it all working first time was ensuring i had set the Start Bit and Number of Bits correctly. I needed help to sort that out and was lucky to find a very helpful Gareth who has done a fair few set ups on the Life system and soon worked out what i had done wrong. It did take ages to find Gareth though!  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr I was pleased that all my other settings worked once that was sorted. Here is the Rx set up for the Dash, you can see all the info coming from the ECU. These can be used to raise alarms or create gauges for the Dash. On my last post you can see a test page on the Dash that shows various gauges. Then there is the Soft Outputs from the PDU that allow the Switch Panel to be illuminated as i want, that also allows tell tales to be used on the Dash for Turn Indicators, Main Beam etc. Then finally the inputs from the Switch Panel. You can tell which ones i created as they are labelled Custom.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Which means now that is all working i can start the wiring? Lets hope so. |
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I missed the photo that shows the switch panel side of the CAN messaging. It shows the Byte construction and bBit allocation. Not the most interesting photo but its part of the story.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr The astute will notice that this is a Poll and Send arrangement and not the the Broadcast set up used but the Byte construction is the same just on a different Frame. |
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Last Edit: Jul 1, 2021 7:13:18 GMT by nevtiger
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,788
Club RR Member Number: 49
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The CAN setup stuff is interesting to see. Electronics and software configuration is as interesting and relevant to car builds as bodywork and engine builds now
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