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Meanwhile a good friend had asked for some help with a 'Project' he had bought. A ready to run motor he said....... Anyway, it had some 'mods' to fit the radiator in a different position. He looked at it and thought the standard part could fit. He wanted to get rid of this:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr What the actual F@CK!!!!! wow..... Anyway its now removed and the standard part actually fits, so go figure... It must have taken hours of solid graft to get it like that!  |
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Last Edit: Oct 31, 2020 0:40:10 GMT by georgeb
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When i took the old engine out i noticed, again admittedly, that the engine mount bushes were a bit slack. So i found out what the bushes were from and decided to change them to a Poly Bush. As you can see the bushes were a bit loose. This is after i pulled it out by hand:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr The new Cosworth inner TCA bushes turned up but:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr The OD of the bush and the ID of the mount are 2mm out so the bush is way too small. Bum Holes. Time to change the tube part of the mount:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr A new smaller ID tube welded on, bushes inserted and mounted back on the engine:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr AND in other news i spent some of lock down creating extra storage space out of the garage to put some new things in the garage..... |
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And the reason for more space being required is:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr and  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Plus  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr It also includes a Band Saw but they aren't that exciting are they? I was lucky enough to be able to buy a colleagues fathers workshop as he could no longer use it. It had been all used to make small scale live steam engines, but seemed about right for little things around the cars..... |
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,880
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Does impression of a weedy Hulk........... Jealous ...... yep ...... again.
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Love the new tool selection, and the whole build in fact |
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Nov 10, 2020 11:11:34 GMT
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So having got the engine mounts sorted i needed to crack on with everything else. I had made the decision to go to a floor mounted pedal box due to the hassle of trying to fit the cylinders up under the dash. I had spoken to a few Sunbeam owners who had an internal cylinders and all agreed it was a real pain. One had gone straight to a floor mounted option so i thought i would too. That means i needed to break out the metal working gear and get used to having a shower covered in rusty dust.... First i sized up a 2mm plate to fit the underside of the pedal box to give it something to sit on that wouldn't flex. Drilled some holes for the mounts, cut the floor out (gulp) and let in the plate to see where it touched...  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr As you can see the original floor isn't flat or pretty. Prior top my having the car, probably in the 90's, some one has just plated over the original floor to cure a rust patch. Lucky they did as the car survived. Anyway i wanted to lower the floor as best i could to get the pedal box in. Then i mounted it. I hate the trial and hassle of welding on my old cars (I know, i know) bloody under seal, bloody oil contamination, bloody everything :-).  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Anyway i got it welded in and then thought that i would strip the paint back to the seat base to paint it all again and make it look loverly As i was stripping it back with a wire brush holes started to appear through the floor.......... When i removed the carpet 15 years ago? The floor was pock marked with rust divers. anyway they had gotten worse under the paint. Putain, as Caroline Proust often says.... Deep breath. Leave garage. Come back a few days later.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Best starting filling this in.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr All done and covered with epoxy rust inhibitor undercoat. I tried to get everything as seamless as possible to make the floor look unrepaiared when painted.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Didn't quite achieve that. But i think i am getting better at it. |
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Last Edit: Nov 10, 2020 11:13:48 GMT by nevtiger
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 488
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Nov 10, 2020 11:53:34 GMT
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A new smaller ID tube welded on, bushes inserted and mounted back on the engine: Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr The joys of welding Avengers! Are those triangulation plates running from the crossmember to the A-post area from a later Avenger/Sunbeam? I've seen a few cars with those but mine doesn't have any. |
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Nov 11, 2020 11:18:54 GMT
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lebowski Those plates tie the crossmember to the anti roll bar mount on the chassis. I think I'm correct in saying that all Sunbeams have them so i guess all Series 8 (7 maybe) Avengers have them. Tigers have them but from that point i don't know whether they were fitted to other models or not. To be honest i don't know. 'I think' they have been on everything i have ever owned but who knows about early cars or whether it was just fitted to 1600's or GT's only???
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With the welding done - or so i thought - i decided to start stripping the interior. I am redoing the wiring due to using a different ECU and things moving about in the engine bay. An advantage of this is the current set up can be lifted straight out and re-used when the Tiger goes back to a road car... Looks messy like this:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr The Tiger Box is getting full up:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr With the floor ready to accept the pedal box i had also made the decision to change to a hydraulic clutch with concentric slave cylinder in the gearbox. I bought a Retro Ford set up and their installation instructions state that the clutch cylinder yoke should be 55mm from the pedal pivot. I was a bit worried that actually this only related to a Ford pedal box as it took into account the stroke of the Ford clutch pedal. I thus borrowed a pedal box from a friends RS1800 he had pare sat in the garage. Idid some measurising and this was what it worked out at:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr 38mm stroke at 55mm. So that allowed me to work out where to drill the new hole on the clutch lever:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Which meant i ended up with this:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Not the best photo but i think you can see that the pedal is going to hit the lower dash panel. I may need to cut the panel - i would rather not actually so i thought lowering the pedal or the option to do so would be good so as i have never used a Milling machine before lets see what happens:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Hmmmm not the tidiest:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Lets try on the other side where it might be seen:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Better but not what you might called 'Finished'. Since then i have increased the tool speed to the maximum the machine will do - as its aluminium - and the results have improved. |
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With the pedals modified it was time to bolt the pedal box down and plumb in the cylinders. I needed a 0.625" for the clutch but as of now i haven't actually found any one with it in stock. All are saying no delivery before the new year..... First i needed to get some top hat threaded inserts into the assembly so i could bolt the cylinders on.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr I couldn't use the normal very effective mounting straps and stuffs so used the G Clamps but got a bit carried away:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr I have a lot of these G Clamps as when i moved into the house the previous owner had a builders skip on the drive full - yes full - of G Clamps.... Bolted down and starting to plumb the lines:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Hmmmmm somehow i will have to get these attached, which are the existing front and rear lines from the old set up:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr But first i sorted out the Reservoirs, i looked for a set of 3 together and Merlin came up with this Tilton affair. Mounted it on some Stainless sheet and spent a few evenings getting the pipe onto the push on barbs and then through the sheet!  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr And ready to instal (mostly) but still with some painting to do:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr With most of the piping in ready but to come out so i can spill some paint on the floor:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr And then finally i carried out a seat fitting for the Grand son. I need a different seat it seems:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr |
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 488
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Probably a stupid question... Where do your feet go? I'm guessing a false floor or platform above those cylinders? Are you going to run without the dash bottom?
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Probably a stupid question... Where do your feet go? I'm guessing a false floor or platform above those cylinders? Are you going to run without the dash bottom? A small false floor comes with the pedal box. The dash bottom i was hoping to not have to remove but as i have size 12 feet it will be required..... |
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The car floor and associated areas will be given a coat of paint - honest. But in the meantime i decided there were way to many holes so set to with the welder and caused them not to be holes. Of course i later drilled new holes.....  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr And whilst the Lock Down wasn't a Lock Down and travel was again allowed the car went off fo a new exhaust. It was gone for a little while but i fetched it back just before Christmas.... As you can see the journey was wet and i don't have a fancy covered trailer.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr |
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This looks like an impressionist painting. I expect to see it in a gallery with a title like "Fields of the Somme" Keep up the good work! |
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1991 Toyota Deliboy (RWD JDM LCV) - Now SOLD
1998 Lexus LS400 (RWD EUR VIP) - Also GONE
1989 Volvo 740 GLE (RWD EUR GLE)
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So here is the problem with the lower dash. My feet will just not fit so time for it to come out.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr I had already taken the dash top 'crash roll' out as it was in the way. And its in very very good condition.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Then i found i had a flocked light weight fibre glass dash top hanging around......  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Mmmmmm looks good. Sadly i wont be using it though. Its modelled on the GLS 4 dial dash type and thus has the big overhang to keep the sun off the dials. But I'm upgrading to a screen type dash driven from the ECU so it aint not no good. I need the other style of dash top for the strip instruments. I had access to one but its in a lower tier, however the Tiers changed so i could get it. That's the weird thing about living next on the border of two counties!! In the mean time i cracked on with the plumbed in fire system. Mount the bottle so it can be tilted correctly  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Then make some brackets for the nozzles...  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Drill some holes and stick rivnuts in. Find out that when the car was last resprayed the painter used some filler in weird places....  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr And mount it all in temp style to check it all fits  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr |
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One of the problems i had with previous engines was the amount of time taken for the oil to get up to a temperature that would allow the car to be thrashed off the start line. During the summer its not so bad but Castle Combe in march or October.... I decided for this engine i would try a water/oil heat exchanger so that the water coolant helps to warm the oil. Also it means the oil will dump excess heat into the coolant when running hard. The AJ30 i put into the Sunbeam used a similar set up in the S Type Jag. Doing this was easiest with a remote filter head and then i could add ports for Oil Temp and Oil Pressure sensors. I got myself a Ford Sierra Cosworth Modine as its the right size and shape. This then sits between the filter and the filter head. An extension bolt is needed to mount it all and i couldn't find one the correct length or diameter so i bought on too big and made it fit. I started modifying this one first  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr But it broke due to some hamfisted stupidity on part - as did the second one - I know 'Try to learn from mistakes Nev' Got it sorted in the end  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr The red tape is just to make sure i got the flow correct! Now all i need to do is get the sensors to fit..... The ports are 1/4" NPT the sensors aren't. |
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Jan 22, 2021 14:46:02 GMT
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The Temp sensor is M12 and the port is 1/4" so i tried to see how to make that fit - stick with me on this - first i came up with this: An M14 brass bung tapped inside for an M12. As you can see it fell apart...  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Ok, undefeated, i thought i will make one out of Aluminium rod and ensure that there is enough meat around the transition and that the temp sender still sits in the flow: Genuine design  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Machining  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Done but tidying up to be done  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr I hadn't yet drilled and tapped the oil filter housing but looking at the results from this exercise i was then a bit reticent to do that to my nice filter head. So - i gave up and bought the same sensor but with an 1/8" NPT thread. Oh well. The oil pressure sender was easier. I got a 1/4" NPT to JIC -3 adaptor and screwed it in. Then knocked up two -3 lines lines to screw onto the adaptor and onto the pressure sender. Job done. Two off as i have two pressure sensors as the other one is for Fuel pressure. I did learn some interesting machining lessons though. :-) |
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Last Edit: Jan 26, 2021 14:55:28 GMT by nevtiger
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Jan 26, 2021 14:54:58 GMT
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Remember the dash shenanigans? Me to. So i used the early version for a strip dash as it was very spare and didnt need much repair of cracking etc. I put the seat in and sat there working out exactly where the dash needs to end up in thin air. Then using the power of Gaffer Tape i made it sit in thin air and took some measurements. After a bit of pondering and drawing up on Mk1 CAD i used Mk2 CAD and made these:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr First one on TinkerCAD and second on FreeCAD. They are slightly different and actually the TinkerCAD version was the one that would have been ideal. However, i got the FreeCAD version printed - cheers Chris - and this appeared once we had done an exchange:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr Which with suitable bolts and a nice piece of Carbon Fibre sheet as a mount behind the dash i got this:  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr I was happy with that. It actually sits so i can see it where the new steering wheel will be......... |
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Last Edit: Jan 26, 2021 14:55:47 GMT by nevtiger
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Jan 26, 2021 14:58:06 GMT
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And i also made a new switch panel - blank currently. Although it looks scraggy around the edges that's just the protective film.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr |
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Feb 15, 2021 11:14:36 GMT
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Things have been happening every day on the car but i keep forgetting to update as I'm in the garage.... Any how: My daughter bought mea creeper for wizzing around next to the pit and trying not fall in. Any way the bloody thing keeps breaking. Seems the 'Welds' aren't.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr I have welded it back together now so on with the car. I plumbed up the Modine to the engine and finally sorted the sensors on the top of the remote filter head  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr The correct size thread on the temp sensor and a convertor to 3/8 UNF to use -3 fittings for the pressure sensor. Which gave me the ideal opportunity to do some more CADing.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr 3D printed and added to the inner wing  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr With that done i thought i would mount the wheel speed sensors as a change of scenery. The sensors are three wire Hall Effect and whilst i was trying them out on the bench to see how close they needed to be to a bolt head i noticed one of them wasn't working. Sent it back and will be getting replacement along with some other bits i have ordered. On the back axle the sensor sits below the axle line, as the caliper is on top, on a bracket to pick up on the back of the wheel studs.  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr And i do realise that is a poor photo of its p[osition but its not fitted yet as i only have one that works currently.... The front was easy as all i needed to do was drill the bottom of the strut and pick up off the bolts holding the disc on. The metal was tough to drill mind.... And the LED illuminates to say its working  Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr |
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