Avenger Tiger - Hillclimb and Sprint Car

Yes its a way of providing an axle lock during hard jumping to ensure the car is almost undrivable. :-)


In reality its not in its correct place......

And when you apply Newtons third law it becomes clear how important it is for wheel control that the unsprung mass is a low as possible. At present any vertical acceleration of a front wheel is resisted by a proportionally larger mass. At the rear however, the ratio between the masses is far less and any vertical accelerations of the rear axle will be harder for the rear of the car to resist.

Whilst waiting for the engine to put its self back together i decided to add some lightness to the engine mounts i also modified to 'open' them up a bit.

Before when the engine part of the mount was in the body part the engine would not lift straight out as the body part mount was to narrow at the top. This meant unbolting the mounts from the engine. SO i cut them apart and re-welded at a much better angle to clear them selves.

Doesn't make a lot of sense that but would do if you were stood in the garage and i showed you.

Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr

Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr

Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr


You may remember that Welsh Dave borrowed my spare engine and broke it. Well he has unbroken it now. I promised not to go on about the fact it has taken him a year so i won't.


Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr

This means i might get to France yet......

In the quest to get the car ready for France a lot of progress followed by unprogress has been happening:

The engine finally in the front of the car.


Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr


And after a bit of a steady morning attaching things we end up with this:

Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr

But that was only after i noticed coolant leaking from the head/block interface. Seems the head bolts were not fully torqued down, Welsh Dave must of forgotten to do the second go round.....

But it runs and makes the right noises. Then the bloody thermostat stuck closed. Great. I use Evens Coolant and i can re-use it but its a ball ache dropping it out ready to change the thermostat.

Then to improve my mood i drove the car down the garden and the brakes have turned super soft. Mood now worsening.

Car back in garage and try and decide what the issue is.

I couldn't face it so washed and polished the car instead:

Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr

When i finally jacked the back up and took the wheels off i found that brake fluid was leaking from the brake union to caliper interface:


Here shown with no pipe but an artistically posed drop of fluid

Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr


I checked the copper washers and to be frank they were a bit mank so i fettled them back with 1200 grit paper.

Before


Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr


After

Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr

Put both sides back together, bled it through and still leaking!

Ok, take it all apart and have a look again and i noticed the the mating surface on the caliper is dimpled.

Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr

SO gave it a good seeing to in situ on both sides with 1200 grit and put it all back together and guess what? Yep still leaking.

Right, callipers off of the car and out with the smoothest file i have and really go to town on these things.

Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr

It was quite an uneven surface but sorted now. I also changed the washers for 'better' ones that are sandwich types.

Both callipers done, cleaned and re-fitted. Complete bleed again of the rear circuit - bias box with twin master cylinders - and at last no leaking (so far).

And a totally curse word pedal. It goes to nearly the floor and feels spongy.

Re-bleed brakes again, i use a pressure bleed thing.

And its still curse word. When i first did the rear brake conversion it was a good firm pedal but whilst sitting there something has given up the ghost.

New 0.75" Girling master cylinder is on its way, i am not looking forward to changing it at all!!!!!! As is 2 brand new 88 degree thermostats.

And if that wasn't enough the SPA rev counter has gone AWOL and i still need to corner weight the car, clean the inside, change the front seat blah blah blah.

And an enormous amount of work has broken out with my employer thus getting in the way of real life.

After removing the seat, bending over backwards and getting my head under the dash i still couldn't see the balance bar connection!

So out with the Aldi or Lidels special

Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr


It sort of helped


Finally got the master cylinder out

Untitled by Nevtiger, on Flickr

Interestingly when i had drained the brakes down i put my foot on the brake and it felt exactly the same - so maybe this master cylinder was not doing much??

scratch that, you just updated !

Tough one to call, if he has put nice soft squashy bushes in the upper arms that allow compliance through the full arc described by the Panhard and solid (looks like just one bush in the Panhard)then the Panhard should have all the control. However, if there are uncompliant joints in the arms then they could control roll or it could transition between the two with the roll centre moving about between the two systems.

I guess the way to tell would be removal of one of the upper arms.

The only things that have changed are the callipers. The previous drum set up used the same lines and bled with out any issues. So i am working on the assumption that as nothing has changed with the lines that should not be the problem.

with the copper washers , they need annealing , they gone work hard that's why you struggled , and for getting the air out quite often on M/cycles holding the lever under pressure overnight then bleeding off works, so I see no reason similar should not work here.