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Jim,
Strangely the pedal feels no harder than any of the other clutches i have used and both engines used different clutches and gearboxes although the same release bearing (well, very similar in length.
The only issue i can see presently is that the release arm needed to be modded, along with the pivot point, to get good stroke to release the clutch BUT i think this has resulted in the clutch throw being excessive, ie once the clutch is released the pedal keeps going down and increases the pressure fely by the crank.
As soon as i get the spare engines crank back and its rebuilt i will be measuring the arm throw and clutch release point and pedal position relationships (no jokes) to minimise the clutch movement to that required and thus minimise the force felt by the crank.
I am now fairly convinced the following all have an affect:
1. Engine stands for long periods that allows oil to drain away from thrust face
2. Engine gets started with foot on pedal as starter motor not man enough - i have been through three. I have a new high torque gear reduction type to fit now. (ah ha here is the real problem, dozy me with my foot on the clutch during the first start up)
3. Engine oil not hot enough when car moved about to put on trailer or to drive on road and with high first gear it means clutch is down alot - not much i can do about this apart from moving house :-)
4. Events; Hillclimbs and Sprints starts result in a long period holding the clutch down again possibly before oil up to correct temp. Not sure how to get over this but will try only putting it into gear when i get the Green light (they don't like this as the release point for Sprints can be quite tight on quick circuits like Coombe)
As an aside i have an entry on the 19th April for a Sprint at Goodwood. I wont have the spare engine in the Avenger by then so i shall be using something else with nearly twice the hp and four times the torque.....
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Eamon,
They are Compemotive CXR. 8" wide and an offset that allows the wheels with 200/530 tyres to fit under a standard wheel arch - albeit 'rolled'. I cant remember the exact figure though :-)
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Sometimes things just don't go the way you expect. The moment of seizure........... Or if you prefer - 'look how awesome i am at drifting!'  1J8A7759-(ZF-1909-42296-2-001) by Nevtiger, on Flickr |
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Hurumph.
I thought i would get the engine finished this evening but the cam followers i got from Speedy Spares are very poor.
When i got them home i found them to very 'marked' not rust but very nearly but the real issue is that they will not fit the bore in the block..........
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So, who would think that getting a set of new cam followers would be so hard?
If it comes to it i can get then re-faced and re-hardened by Newman Cams but i was rather hoping to have the engine in by now!!!
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So the new Cam Follower saga.
In rebuilding my spare engine i fitted a new Group 2 cam so thus needed new Cam Followers.
Speedy Spares were open and i was working near by - the other sources for what ever general reasons were unavailable.
So, i got these 8 new cam followers home only to find that 3 fitted and the rest did not.
The three that fitted looked like the original followers i removed but the ones that did not fit looked different.
The originals were of a 'two part' construction but the new ones seemed one piece.
I phoned up Speedy Spares who sent me out another 8 followers for a further £34 after a discussion about there being a set of Followers in their stock that do not fit. Understandably the chap i spoke to was not really up to speed on Talbot cam followers and stated that they had a very large box full of them and they all looked the same.
The new 8 again did not fit.
Having measured all of the Cam Followers and found that actually they were all the same size BUT the one piece follower would still not fit i turned them up side down and they slipped into the tunnel!
Ah, measuring again could not actually identify any real size difference nor could i feel any lip at the bottom that might stop them going in.
I took one of the cam followers and on a very fine grind wheel i let back the very bottom of the follower on the sides by a small margin. It then fitted.
It seems that the replacement cam followers being sold by Speedy Spares are manufactured incorrectly. To get them to fit - if you are so inclined - they need a small amount of machining.
Speedy Spares are aware of this issue. And were not exactly overly worried. (oh stop being polite - they didn't give a sh%t)
Now i can finish the engine.
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Finally.
Got the spare engine running yesterday. All made easier with help from Julian, who is still sans Avenger....
I have not used my machined front pulley arrangement this time for the trigger wheel but used the same idea that Jim Baxter uses on JOC. It's a lighter arrangement and works, but just needed the front cover modified slightly with the grinder.
I need to run in the engine, map it and then it's ready for another event. At last.
Who thought that it would take so long just to fit the spare engine!
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So it came to pass that the spare engine was fitted and started. I did the normal cam running in session and thursday took the car out of the garage to wash it. Once washed the car refused to start and after much spanner throwing i found out that the bulkhead connector for the engine loom was faulty.  IMG_2355 by Nevtiger, on Flickr Its a chinese copy of the normal military ones as made by ITT Canon that i got from Trigger-Wheels.com the unit is fine when new but does not stand many removals and became slack!! So the answer was this the genuine ITT-Canon connector as used on the Metro 6R4 engine loom.....  IMG_2356 by Nevtiger, on Flickr Having got the car going again i thought it was high time to get the car out, run it in and do some tuning at the same time:  IMG_2358 by Nevtiger, on Flickr Engine is broken in now, oil changed and the mid section of the fuel map done. More driving around today...... So if you were on the A303 mid year last year you would have seen a Yellow car trying to 'access' the upper reaches of the map :-) |
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Whilst running the car about i noticed that the tick over had got a bit high and after a day or two it had got as high as 20000rpm and could not adjust it down. I thought air leak so set about trying to solve an air leak but nothing seemed to cure the problem. Eventually i gave up and took the carb/throttle bodies off. When i got them off the inlet manifold i found this:  IMG_0067 by Nevtiger, on Flickr As can be seen the throttle butterfly is standing off and not fully closing. So after a bit more investigation i figured out it was the Throttle Pump Rod that was not allowing the spindle to fully shut:  IMG_0068 by Nevtiger, on Flickr he spindle only bears on this as the throttle is shut and the actual pump part had become stuck in its bore hence stopping the butterflies shutting completely:  IMG_0069 by Nevtiger, on Flickr he brass piston had become stuck in its corroded bore. Its not something i had thought or realised about when i converted the carbs to throttle bodies, but most of the internal working parts rely on fuel to supply some lubrication. However, these have no fuel what so ever hence the corrosion. I have no removed this assembly from both carbs and i have proper idle again!! |
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Finally i got an event done that i finished...............................
A very wet and rainy Bank Holiday Monday at Goodwood.
car went well and i didnt stuff it, so all good. There were plenty of other shunts and people going home because it was too wet!!!! They have never driven a Welsh Hill Rally thats all i can say to that!
Thanks to Beth and her camera skills here are two vids of the car:
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Last Edit: Jul 17, 2015 8:32:14 GMT by nevtiger
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sridgett
Part of things
the only way is Dagenham
Posts: 434 
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Jul 14, 2015 10:23:18 GMT
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Am I right I thinking this was in RC magazine?
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Mk3 capri, escort xr3i, mk2 fiesta,mk5 escort rs2000
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Almost, it was in PPC Magazine.
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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I mentioned i had fitted a different steering wheel. The wheel is approx 14" in diameter and its alot easier to move the steering with the 2.2 rack with this wheel! It actually came in the boot of the Tiger when i bought it but i do not know what make it is etc. It did not quite fit when ifirst tried it and i had to modify the plastic bit that turn the indicators on and off slightly for the wheel to fit.   The wheel rim is now 2-3" closer to me as well I thought it looked familiar - that's a wheel from a Reliant Scimitar GTE SE5a (early 70's) - the same as fitted to my GTE Not sure if that's of any use to you! |
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Last Edit: Jul 15, 2015 9:19:16 GMT by Phil H
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Is it? That might explain why it did not fit straight on. There was a rumour that it was also fitted to the Avenger GT.......
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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That could be where the base unit was originally taken from (or at least a common supplier) - there was also a 2-spoke version but they were in use from the late 60's right up until the mid 80's with differing rubber pads in the middle. Just keep an eye on the rivets (including the ones under the cap in the middle of each spoke) as they can work loose over time. The slightly odd construction (with slipper pads on the spokes) and the corrugated inner section is a collapsible section (before manufacturers made the column collapsible rather than the wheels).
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mfmman
Part of things
Posts: 13
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Jul 15, 2015 20:58:42 GMT
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Great thread and car Nev, first of several thousand questions, where did the in-situ adjusters come from. I'd like to buy the adjusters alone as I need high articulation rod ends. I can only find one company selling a kit and the rod ends aren't what I'd use.
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philhoward:
The wheel is the right size but a little thin on the rim (!!!!) i might change to a Springalex over the Winter. I did look at increasing the depth on this wheel but its construction with the afore mentioned rivets precludes that (Or i was just too lazy i can't remember)
mfmman:
Which adjusters? I have many many adjusters on the car now and loose track of them all - its my age so my wife tells me.......
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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Jul 16, 2015 10:02:05 GMT
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Yep - the construction of it doesn't really suit much fiddling with it! If the offset suits, there is a Mountney boss that fits their standard wheels (but I've no idea which one it is - possibly Spitfire). Plenty of Scimitars end up with Mountney wheels. I've kept the same wheel on mine to assist with steering effort (7J rims up front on mine) but something a bit thicker would be better for me but keeping the diameter.
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mfmman
Part of things
Posts: 13
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Jul 16, 2015 16:35:22 GMT
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philhoward: The wheel is the right size but a little thin on the rim (!!!!) i might change to a Springalex over the Winter. I did look at increasing the depth on this wheel but its construction with the afore mentioned rivets precludes that (Or i was just too lazy i can't remember) mfmman: Which adjusters? I have many many adjusters on the car now and loose track of them all - its my age so my wife tells me....... Sorry, steering rack to track rod end |
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Last Edit: Jul 16, 2015 16:36:27 GMT by mfmman
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Ah right.
O'Kanes i seem to remember but i suspect Jason Shaw can do them too.
N
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