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The new reproduction stage1 stub axles have arrived. I have all the parts to pull the front axle apart and rebuild it with 24 spline shafts for my ARB air locker and CV joints Damn. That's some absolute filth. I don't think you'll have much use for that winch... Are those RCV style CV's then? Who makes those joints? Niiiice.
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1987 Supercharged BMW R1150 Citroen 2cv Hillclimb Monster 1995 Renault Master Mk1 Race Transporter 1994 Mazda MX5 Mk1 / NA Road Going Class Hillclimber 1991 UMM Alter II Crew Cab OM606 SuperTurbo Diesel MegaUMM Overlander 1992 UMM Alter II Station Wagon 1980 UMM Cournil - survivor - resto project 1979 Lomax 224 2014 VW T5.1 Transporter Kombi Highline
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Looking serious now! Are disc brakes on the cards? If you like playing in the mud, the drums get lethal once they fill up with mud.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 13, 2020 20:24:52 GMT
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Not seen those split chargers before, I'll have a read later, link saved More a twin battery charger the way it splits it straight from the Alternator, don't even bother with a traditional split charge Honestly, love what you're doing here. Your two Landy threads gave me the inspiration to crack on with my little UMM to how I want it for offloading and also for the OM606 in MegaUMM. Just looking through the pics above, I am out of love with those plastic covered electrical crimp connectors and have changed all of those to the double mechanical joint ones where it clamps on both the inner core and onto the outer protection, then I heat shrink over that joint with some of the stuff that has the extra glue inside it. The crimp tool I use is the same as this one www.carbuilder.com/uk/ratchet-version-proper-f-crimp-tool-kit highly recommended, it's got dies that the connector goes in so you get a perfect crimp every time. I use that and then some heat shrink with the added glue to just cover the crimped area and heat that with an old desoldering gun, works really nicely. So basically it prioritises keeping the main battery charged over the second battery? Still not read up on it, way too busy! All of the terminals into the fuse and relay blocks have been soldered. If and when I start having issues with poor connections in the crimped terminals in the future they'll be soldered too. Time is against me to have this built up, running and shaken down by the end of the month.... The new reproduction stage1 stub axles have arrived. I have all the parts to pull the front axle apart and rebuild it with 24 spline shafts for my ARB air locker and CV joints Damn. That's some absolute filth. I don't think you'll have much use for that winch... Are those RCV style CV's then? Who makes those joints? Niiiice. I'm sure I'll need the winch at some point. The lockers will give me the confidence to push harder and go further before getting stuck where the ruts are deeper from bigger tyres! The CV joints are standard early 110 which I've read are the strongest standard Land Rover CV joints pre Disco2. They're also almost identical to the earlier stage1 V8 joints except the distance of the circlip groove from the bearing faces is shorter requiring the drive flanges to be skimmed a little Looking serious now! Are disc brakes on the cards? If you like playing in the mud, the drums get lethal once they fill up with mud. For now there's no plan on fitting disc brakes to this Landy, though I'll probably buy a set for my 109 sometime next year as that gets more miles and may end up being used for towing too? Finally got round to re-shimming the pinion bearing on the front diff with ARB locker and fitting the air ring and unions on the casing Then it was down to stripping the front axle down to swap the driveshafts over and fit the air locker I removed the standard top railco bush for the V8 bush and had to fit a spacer underneath it to get the height correct on the standard swivel ball, and the standard driveshaft roller bearing was removed and replaced with an oil seal housing The inside of the swivel ball was blended around the edges of the existing machined surfaces and raw cast surfaces to give enough clearance for the CV joint to fit with enough room to move lock to lock Then it was simply re-assemble the hubs with the CV's fitted, reattach the brakes and skim the drive flanges in the lathe to clear the circlip groove in the CV stub I think that's all of the immediate big jobs done, apart from looking into an auxiliary fuel tank to give a proper range considering I still have only a single 45ltr underseat fuel tank and big V8 under the bonnet, and plenty of small tinkering jobs to do.....
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Aug 14, 2020 17:57:34 GMT
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Superb. Bet you never envisaged this when you were 15.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 15, 2020 10:33:00 GMT
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Superb. Bet you never envisaged this when you were 15. The overall look and basic specs yes, the finer details no....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 16, 2020 17:37:16 GMT
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Isn't it just our luck that now I'm working outside on the little V8 the weather has turned and it's almost always chucking it down with rain! Between the rain showers I've done some more tinkering, running a copper brake line from the engine to the Megajolt ecu for the manifold pressure, bolted some ammo crates down in the back for tools and recovery gear and tied up some loose wires and cables. Ran it up and down the driveway a few times then went on an adventure Brakes were awful if not non existent to start with and the Megajolt needs mapping. I've had the drums off and the contact patches are small so they need proper bedding in, just not in the rain! I've not plugged my laptop into the Megajolt ecu so have no idea what ignition map is on that either. The positive is it drives like the springs are made of jelly The negative is it drives like the springs are made of jelly There is no way it would be safe with parabolic springs fitted, the bodyroll coming out of junctions is hilarious! Should be great offroad until it falls over And at last I have a V8 on the road again
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Aug 16, 2020 19:40:07 GMT
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Few people (beyond us readers ... ) will understand the seriousness of that external cage, or how well it's engineered imto the chassis. That said, it must raise the vehicle's CofG?
John
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 16, 2020 21:06:05 GMT
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Few people (beyond us readers ... ) will understand the seriousness of that external cage, or how well it's engineered imto the chassis. That said, it must raise the vehicle's CofG? John Unfortunately the external cage isn't attached to the chassis, yet. I have the tube, baseplates and bolts, just not had the time to make the bars. The front hoop is quite secure on the front outriggers, though I plan to weld another outrigger on to strengthen that point. The centre hoop is bolted to the middle bulkhead, with bolts infront and behind so that's reasonably strong as is. The weakest point is the rear which is just bolted to the body near the capping. However the centre hoop is also bolted to the internal hoop which is mounted direct to the chassis and exceeds the requirements for offroad competition in how it's mounted! Not just the CofG, but overall weight is completely different. I suspect this Landy weighs a bit more than my 109 now. There's a Salisbury rear which on it's own is notoriously heavy, now fitted with some extra bracing and an ARB air locker which is an almighty solid lump of metal. The front also carries an ARB air locker which is considerably heavier than a standard open diff. The driveshafts are also heavier. The R380 and LT230 transmission is stupidly heavy too. There's a winch on the front, and soon will be another winch on the rear with another batter. The only thing on it that's lighter than original is the V8. So there's a lot of weight high up, but there's also a lot more weight low down...
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Aug 17, 2020 10:41:03 GMT
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Out of curiosity, what does the CV front axle feel like - steering lock improved and no snatching?
Or is there no noticeable difference?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 17, 2020 16:39:50 GMT
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Out of curiosity, what does the CV front axle feel like - steering lock improved and no snatching? Or is there no noticeable difference? You don't notice anything, completely smooth through the driveline lock to lock on and off load. I even spun a wheel with no drama. The 109 jerks a bit on hard lock with the oscillations running up the driveline to the engine. I did a quick 3 point turn on one of my drives. Quick and easy, spin the over-assisted steering wheel with the palm of my hand, bang it in reverse then back to 1st and take off!
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Aug 18, 2020 11:44:29 GMT
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well considered mods, implemented to a high standard
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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well considered mods, implemented to a high standard Thanks Still a long way to go and a never ending list of bits to do! At least I can drive it and start using it I found some cheap usb charge sockets on ebay and put a pair of them in the dash The centre gauges need an alloy cover since the oil pressure keeps wanting to sit wonky and I can fit a third gauge in the middle and then the dash is done (and maybe label the foglight switch and warning lights) And then I had a delivery of some 3mm steel sheet yesterday. I've started to make a skidplate for the underside of the chassis. From experience the centre crossmember has a habit of digging in, so I'm hoping it'll just slide over stuff instead! Bolted hard up to the crossmembers it sits about 1" lower than the axle tubes so shouldn't really cause any issues It'll probably need a bit of reinforcing to withstand rocks, but where I'm going it's all mud...
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How's it all been going with this Sowen?
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1987 Supercharged BMW R1150 Citroen 2cv Hillclimb Monster 1995 Renault Master Mk1 Race Transporter 1994 Mazda MX5 Mk1 / NA Road Going Class Hillclimber 1991 UMM Alter II Crew Cab OM606 SuperTurbo Diesel MegaUMM Overlander 1992 UMM Alter II Station Wagon 1980 UMM Cournil - survivor - resto project 1979 Lomax 224 2014 VW T5.1 Transporter Kombi Highline
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 12, 2021 18:54:57 GMT
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Feb 12, 2021 21:51:18 GMT
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Good to see the old girl being used properly; It appears I am not alone is spending a week of spannering for every day of offroading! One advice, from experience, once you have waterproofed the bellhousing, is to install a breather pipe to this as well. I have run a 1/2" ID hose from the bell house to the air filter housing. It gets piping hot inside there and if you dunk it in deep water, it sucks oil through the engine crank seal and gearbox as well.
Daan
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 27, 2021 20:45:58 GMT
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Good to see the old girl being used properly; It appears I am not alone is spending a week of spannering for every day of offroading! One advice, from experience, once you have waterproofed the bellhousing, is to install a breather pipe to this as well. I have run a 1/2" ID hose from the bell house to the air filter housing. It gets piping hot inside there and if you dunk it in deep water, it sucks oil through the engine crank seal and gearbox as well. Daan I like that suggestion, bit late since the engine is fitted and running now, but should I ever need to remove it or gain access to the back, I might add a breather there. The gearbox and axle breathers still need extending further up than the back of the engine. The cause of the mud contamination to the clutch was two holes either side of the sump pan of the P38 alloy sump I turned up some aluminium bungs, knocked them in and welded them up. Not pretty, but water/mud tight now Whilst I was at it I fitted a drain plug to the gearbox adapter. Still need to make a bracket to carry the plug when not needed A little paint went on the bare aluminium bellhousing before that was refitted, a new clutch fitted to the V8 and that dropped back in Progress is slow with lockdown and other stuff needing to be done taking priority. The weather is improving so I can start tinkering outside again!
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Feb 27, 2021 21:51:53 GMT
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That looked like fun!
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Feb 27, 2021 22:45:43 GMT
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Proper Land Rover. It's got sh*t on it
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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After months of prioritising other jobs on the fleet and around the home I thought I'd better start prepping the little Land Rover for possible shows and another little offroading weekend later this year. The engine install was completed, only to find it was really difficult to start. Seemed like a flat battery, but after trying to jump it I deduced it was the starter motor not working right after it's submerging in mud! New starter went in and it was back to starting happily on the key. So this left two faults remaining to fix, a very bent bumper and contaminated ineffective brakes. I bought 3m of 100mm box steel and started chopping and rearranging it onto the front of the Landy The ends were closed up, angled in and a hole cut for the fairlead then offered up to set it in position to make some chassis mounts The bumper was fully welded up, drain holes added with M16 nuts welded in to block them up, and primed and painted black Recovery swivel mounts were welded back on as I went, with grease holes drilled and tapped for grease nipples to stop them seizing up and the original number plate screwed on the front It's held on with M12 bolts which fill all the original chassis holes nicely, and not loose like the usual M10 or 3/8" bolts. It's also sitting higher and further back than standard which should help with approach angles. Now the steering guard sticks out and wants to be pushed back into the chassis! The other job was the wrecked front brakes. Design & Development Engineering that supplied the upgraded front axle stub axles and driveshafts had recently released a front disc brake conversion, so I bought the kit, bought the Defender brake parts and set about swapping it all over in a day I'm pleased with the braking performance. Not a revelation over drums, but should be a reliable setup that'll tolerate abuse and neglect without near complete performance failure that the drums suffered from! With that, it was back on the road! And made it to the Gaydon Land Rover show last weekend only suffering from a suspected close to failure clutch master cylinder....
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That bumper is a serious bit of kit, and the brakes look great too!
Awesome machine.
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