Ginetta G15, Track aspirations

Heres a vid, my dad did the camera work sod knows why he looked at the alternator lol. Its running, as you can see the belt is chucking itself around so will need the tensioner moving to the bottom which was expected

You will hear it was high pitched. After that run I stood behind it while dad sat in it, I noticed that the bypass valve will need to be plumbed into the manifold as it didnt open the sound running isnt probably what itll sound like. When I opened it manually the revs picked up like crazy. Oh and initially I started it it ran a second accelerated crazy few fire flys out of the exhaust then cut out couldn't restart then remembered I forgot to add the petrol I had picked up before in a can. Dick. So think ill do a comp test make sure all is ok after that. Fire flys could have been the exhaust mind!



Chris

Wow... quite a whistle off of it, it doesn't really sound so much like an Imp engine in the video, is in more like how it used to sound in the flesh?

I see what you mean about the whip in the drive belt, it is usually better to put any tensioners in the rear run of a belt or chain which isn't being subjected to the drive load. If the tensioner is a sprung type this will avoid allowing slack in the belt.

I'll bet you are itching to see how it goes now, once fully set up....

Well I finally finished off the tensioner last night to the point where I can apply proper pressure to the belt and have noticed that the charger is still able to flex towards the engine in a downwards fashion.

Looking at a way forward I think I might be able to add a shallow angle to the rear sump mount under the plate and then need to figure something out at the front as the charger is mounted past the front sump post which I think is allowing it to flex at that corner as the othrt corner is bolted to the engines front face.

Also think a angle/side to the mounting plate will stop twist.

All this woyld be reduced to nearly nothing if not completely by using a nice thick alloy plate machined I reckon which will be the final plan.

First though it looks like more welding after putting it all away and stripping the charger off and doing it all in situ, normal happenings though when doing things from scratch!

Still need to finish off the coolant system which now needs the pump to be mounted at the front do rewired too. Lots to do pre rolling road on the 21st.

Messing about with wheels too whilst filling the clutch and brake fluids.

Looking very good and hoping all goes well for the rolling road setup, then you can unleash the power .

As you said the next thing is to get nice aluminium brackets made, but atleast you now have an idea what they should look like rather than maving them made them having to butcher them or worst getting re-made.

Right quick summary

works perfectly fine, no wobble, flex or issues.

Outlet flange blew its cork gasket then it blew silicone, I'm going to do what turbeam suggested and add additional fixings into the flange and reseal perfectly.

With leaky outlet I have 0.4 bar of boost, 65bhp and many many torques
With sealed outlet the ecu recorded 0.8 bar which will equate to around 90bhp and many many many more torques.

Had a quick drive and yes the pull is awesome, third more torque than the imp had already!!

Also gunna try some decent gasket material

These chargers get really got too!
Think the glue in the cork melts a bit with use too and weakens.

Good to see yours is getting there now

You were right too, bike carbs and forced induction just never worked right, frustrating ! Converting mine now to efi

oh and bypass valve was working perfect as far as I could see, opening and closing when expected with no delays

possibly, what pressure has yours made?