ryan
Part of things
Posts: 32
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few of you might remember my post of my car breaking down and leaving me stranded, then having me thinking is it worth having a classic car. well I have been really busy over the last few weeks taking the engine out and finding the cause of the failure. the reason the engine ceased was because a worn shell on the crank of cylinder two, came to the conclusion that there was a lack of oil flow. although the main bearing and cylinder one was fine.....  thought there would be more damage. anyway this brings me to my question?..... the car is a triumph dolomite 1850 and runs on 20W50, is there anyreason why I could not run the car on say, 10W40 and have more oil flow on cold starts? Cheers Ryan |
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question?rustingdeathtrap
@GUEST
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No reason why you cant try it.
Is 20/50 the recomennded lubricant ?
If so then i'd be reluctant to put anything thinner in and old, well used engine. Especially seeing as you've had oil starvation problems.
What about using 20/40. That way it'd be thinner from cold but wont thin out too much when it gets hot.
If your wallet can take it, (and mine never can) go for a semi sythetic oil, but avoid fully synthetic.
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What about using 20/40. That way it'd be thinner from cold but wont thin out too much when it gets hot. If your wallet can take it, (and mine never can) go for a semi sythetic oil, but avoid fully synthetic. Isn't that the wrong way round - iirc 15/50 will be thinner when cold than 20/50 but the same when warm  Agree though about using the recommended oil thickness - old engines have wider tolerances than modern ones, so need the higher viscosity to provide sufficient protection. |
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question?rustingdeathtrap
@GUEST
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Isn't that the wrong way round - iirc 15/50 will be thinner when cold than 20/50 but the same when warm Agree though about using the recommended oil thickness - old engines have wider tolerances than modern ones, so need the higher viscosity to provide sufficient protection. The first number is viscosity when hot, the second is when cold. The lower the number the thinner the oil. |
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Are you sure? Using 20/50 as an example, I was always told that the first number meant that it acted like 20 grade when cold, but when hot, it acted like 50 grade - thinner when hot, but not as thin as a 20 would be.
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Are you sure? Using 20/50 as an example, I was always told that the first number meant that it acted like 20 grade when cold, but when hot, it acted like 50 grade - thinner when hot, but not as thin as a 20 would be. Yep thats right. |
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question?rustingdeathtrap
@GUEST
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Stand corrected, your right. I think its the lack of sleep i've had  Wouldnt be much point in a 40 grade oil thinning out to 5 when hot. Think i need a lie down ;D |
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^^^ I think you can be excused due to your rapid midnight motor swap ;D  |
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Last Edit: Nov 5, 2006 21:53:12 GMT by PhoenixC
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^^^ I think you can be excused for due to your rapid midnight motor swap ;D Agreed! And that engine swap is very impressive too!!! ;D ;D |
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Last Edit: Nov 5, 2006 21:44:24 GMT by Paul H
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question?rustingdeathtrap
@GUEST
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^^^ I think you can be excused for due to your rapid midnight motor swap ;D Agreed! And that engine swap is very impressive too!!! ;D ;D God, i hope i've put the right oil in it ;D ;D ;D ;D |
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For a pinto GL5 will be fine |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,962
Club RR Member Number: 71
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question?bstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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For a pinto GL5 will be fine You could use treakle ;D |
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I personally would continue to use a good quality 20W/50 oil in the Triumph.
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There is nothing wrong with 20/50. Your oil flow problems are either down to not cranking the engine before firing it (choke fully in, at least 3-5 seconds on the starter), or you over-revved the engine at some point and spun the bearing - but that's unlikely, you'd know about that ;D Could also be you're not using a suitable oil. The 1850 is a big, hot running long stroke slugger that will thin out any weaker oil to the point where it is not sufficient to lubricate the engine. I ran my 1850 in much more severe weather than this on recommended (as in the handbook) and it was bang on, no issues. Just don't forget to prime it Halfords classic is the best I've had results with...5 litre, green tin, works a dream! BTW, still got that good 1850 engine and box kicking about in the back garden, if you need it..... |
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Last Edit: Nov 5, 2006 23:04:01 GMT by Lewis
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ryan
Part of things
Posts: 32
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yeh cheers lewis, but got me self sorted have a mk1 polo for the run around atm, so i have alot of time to spend on the dolly. the engine is stripped and the rebuild is beginning. I have a doner engine for some parts but mainly I'm going for new stuff, maybe even a few added extras i will stick with the 20W50 and try your halfords suggestion. cheers everyone |
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Nice one! Yea, it comes in 5 litre metal cans and is green, got a stag as well as a few other things on the bonnet - works a treat. Will sort you out lovely If I see anything that relates specifically to 2nd bearing failure I'll shout but I think it's just bad luck on this one and for whatever reason the gap closed up and snagged it Best of luck with the rebuild! I'll keep my eye out for any more Triumphtune twin 40/45 manifolds, I sold mine! Put a TR7 2.0 in there for the meantime, you can get a good'un (if ya lucky ;D) for 50 quid and externally it looks no different....Good 20BHP up though if it's in fine fettle. Add a high-torq Kent cam, few ignition goodies, clean up the head, off we go ;D Uses most of the same fittings and fixtures |
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Last Edit: Nov 6, 2006 10:13:17 GMT by Lewis
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ryan
Part of things
Posts: 32
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yeh loads of the same ideas have been filling my head, lol. just out of intrest you got a good place to get a good cam? I'm sorted with the other bit and bobs, i think, the guys i got the car off has a parts department ;D
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Kent and Piper used to do some, haven't seen them listed for a while but I will have a look. Problem with the higher lift cams is it really wears the top end of the engine rapidly so try to get something mild rather than wild Will get back to you if I find the catalogue I recommend Champion double copper core plugs, uprated HT leads, Aldon flamethrower coil, Newtronic electronic ignition, twin HS6s, decent set of rampipes, suitable needles, standard TR7 airbox with K&N panel filter, your existing sports exhaust and then most importantly a decent rolling road tune by someone who knows what they're doing with carbs & timing. Should see you sorted nicely! ;D |
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ryan
Part of things
Posts: 32
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yeh cheers, sounds good.. loads of nausty thoughts going around my head now.. LOL.. i'll keep you posted |
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thought there would be more damage. anyway this brings me to my question?..... the car is a triumph dolomite 1850 and runs on 20W50, is there anyreason why I could not run the car on say, 10W40 and have more oil flow on cold starts?
