820
South East
Posts: 793
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Looks good! That brake judder does sound pretty nasty though :/ Thanks Adam, yes it was really bad, probably shouldnt have continued but got a good few laps to learn the circuit and I know there is loads more to come from the car and me. I need to strip the front suspension and hubs, skim the discs, check and most likely skim the hubs, put it all back together with new "black polly bushes" check the disc run-out and possibly skim the discs on the car.
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Jun 14, 2015 22:55:12 GMT
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2023 14:32:40 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Jun 29, 2015 21:41:06 GMT
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When you think you have checked every dimension and clearance its worth checking again. With so many moving parts and different angles involved in the front suspension, hubs, brake discs, calipers, brake hoses, driveshafts, top arms, bottom arms, anti roll bars, steering rack all moving differently at different steering angles and compression or extension levels while driving and steering I was very thorough, checked it all in the air and on the ground, after a couple of hundred road miles checked it all again, all seemed ok or so I thought. But had not anticipated the extra travel caused by the front suspension under maximum compression when braking hard over bumps (paddock bend and approach to Druids) I have much stiffer springs, bump stops and not much travel anyway because it is lowered but not nearly as much as some cars. See picture below, it is obvious to me now but missed it when putting it all together. I still didnt see it till I started to pull the suspension apart to fit the bushes.
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2023 14:40:53 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Jun 29, 2015 21:53:17 GMT
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The oil cooler fit is slowly coming along, sandwich plate with thermostat fitted and hoses routed through front panel. I need to cut a section from the bumper bracket (not in picture) to mount the cooler and clear the large right angle hose ends fitted to the cooler then make some brackets, but it should fit behind the lower grill without restricting airflow to the intercooler or radiator.
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2023 14:45:50 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Jun 29, 2015 22:09:34 GMT
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Back to the brake problem, this is what was happening. With the damper and spring removed and suspension jacked up to full compression the lower arm moved upward naturally turning the ball joint outwards, making contact with the brake disc, with the ball joint pushing the disc outwards at the bottom and the caliper squeezing the disc in the opposite direction, the loads must have been enormous, I regard myself as a fool to miss this and at the same time very lucky nothing broke, a near miss and hopefully a lesson learned. A better view of the damage to the lower arm and nut.
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2023 14:49:02 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Jun 29, 2015 22:19:02 GMT
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If money was no object the answer would be to start again with new caliper brackets and disc bells positioning the disc, caliper and wheel much further out but for now I plan to machine the current disc bells and caliper bracket to allow some extra clearance between the disc and ball joint. I will fit even stiffer springs and bigger bump stops to reduce the maximum travel, then check it all again and hope this solves it.
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2023 14:50:45 GMT by 820
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,998
Club RR Member Number: 58
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1994 Rover 820adam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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Jun 29, 2015 22:30:11 GMT
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Well I suppose that could account for your brake judder! As you say, lucky nothing broke and it looks like a fair old amount of heat has gone through that nut judging by the colour of it Sounds like your fix should do the job though
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Jun 29, 2015 22:39:35 GMT
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Well I suppose that could account for your brake judder! As you say, lucky nothing broke and it looks like a fair old amount of heat has gone through that nut judging by the colour of it Sounds like your fix should do the job though I hope so, thanks, I can gain just 3mm extra clearance but hope that will be enough with the springs and bump stops. The arms should tidy up and new nuts are on their way. The discs don't look to bad but still might need a skim.
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Almost back together so bit of an update. Caliper brackets back with 3mm removed to move the calipers outwards away from the hub and ball joint, the disc mounting bells have also been machined 3mm to move the discs out by the same amount. Then the wheel wouldnt clear the caliper so had to fit 3mm wheel spacers. I havent put the car back on the ground yet so hope the tyres clear the arches otherwise even more work. With the springs removed I was able to jack the suspension all the way past the bump stops and fortunately the 3mm move is enough to prevent the ball joint making contact with the disc again. Even so with the ride height lowered the shock absorber was always working in an almost fully compressed state and would hit the bump stops to much, so much stiffer springs have been fitted up from 1200lbs to 1600lbs to reduce movement as well as stiffer bump stops. The standard bump stop against the new yellow stop that has been cut down to one section since this pic, I was also able to alter the top spring seat to gain some more travel. With the original top mount bushes removed the spring seat sits nicely in the cup allowing that bit more travel. Before After All new harder black bushes are fitted to lower arms, struts, tie bars and anti roll bar so hope this will tighten everything up at the front even more. I also reversed the helper spring from top to bottom as they had been catching the top edge of the shock. Hopefully this lot will prevent any more damage and fix the cause of the judder, I am prepared for the discs to need an on car skim though.
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2023 14:53:54 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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The oil cooler fit is coming along slowly, it has been more tricky than expected to squeeze the oil cooler, pipes and PAS cooler in behind the lower grill. I had to move the intercooler and reroute coolant and PAS pipes, it seems to go that each time you move one part you need to move another and another, then cut a bit more from the bumper brackets and bumper. The first two attempts at the cooler mount. Third go, this will be welded and painted in the car colour. Painted with cooler mounted. Hoping to start assembling the other parts this weekend just need to weld a couple more plates to the bumper bracket to reposition the intercooler, get some paint on here and there and hope nothing leaks.
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2023 20:22:52 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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The bumper bracket needed more alterations, it had metal removed when the intercooler was fitted years ago but needed to move the intercooler back a bit and make clearance for the oil coolers and pipes. So here goes with my TIG welder, I have some arc welding experience but fired up the TIG for the first time last week so its not pretty. Some cutting and removing Its not pleasing to the eye but I think it is attached ok At this stage in my TIG career I am going to treat it the same as when I attempted to play Golf and enjoy the rare occasion when a shot went as I visioned, not perfect but I am happy with this particular weld so this is the one I am going to remember.
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2023 20:31:16 GMT by 820
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,998
Club RR Member Number: 58
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1994 Rover 820adam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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I can't weld but they look ok to me, as long as they're strong is the main thing I guess? I like the work on the oil cooler mounts too
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Thanks Adam yep there is plenty of weld in there, with a coat of paint, the bumper and lights back on most of it is hidden. This is with all the coolers and pipework now fitted and filled with oil, no leaks so far but not had it running yet. With the bumper back on they pretty much disappear.
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2023 20:33:34 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Sept 11, 2015 17:54:43 GMT
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Took the old Rover back to Brands Hatch this week for another track evening. First I will get the excuses out the way, the suspension and cooling have been done since last visit and I was booked into a local garage to have the front discs skimmed on the car, the final job before getting back on track, anyway got there and didnt like the look of the garage drove straight back out, so still had brake judder, even so with 25 or so laps last time I had a much better idea of the circuit and felt more confident. First couple of laps, I get a black flag waved at me so I slow right down checking gauges and warning lights, it was meant to be for the car behind me, and lose 2nd at druids but by 3rd lap get going. There is a nice BMW E28 M5 on track to. This was fun, plan was to do 2 laps with the black Peugeot 306GTi behind, he would pass after a couple of laps, I would follow to get some video. If you look closely you will see a Ford KA spin at Graham Hill bend, the Peugeot lock up and we bunch up, someone had dropped oil or something on the circuit, next lap we come round I hit the oil coming out of Druids and into Graham Hill as quite a few others did, I thought it was a puncture or something had broken, 4 spinners apparently then the track was closed and cleaned. I didnt go out again, not till next spring now with working brakes. This was taken as I was leaving the pit garage to go on track
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Last Edit: Mar 26, 2016 22:36:33 GMT by 820
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Sept 15, 2015 1:19:17 GMT
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You're the kind of person the car scene needs. It's not a bout the badge, it's not about the street cred, it's not about trying to be anything to anyone other than yourself. It's simply about personal investment, great engineering and of course, fun.
Fair play to you, I'm in awe.
And for the record, I love Rovers.
Chris
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Last Edit: Sept 15, 2015 1:20:38 GMT by ThePollitt
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Sept 15, 2015 5:55:04 GMT
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Ey! What's not 'street credible' about a 20 year old Rover? This is one of my favourite cars on here, the way it looks like a really clean original car but is actually perfectly at home chasing Porsches around Brands Hatch is awesome.
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I've got Rovers.
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Sept 15, 2015 18:37:07 GMT
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Blimey, thank you Chris and SamR380, I am never quite sure how people see my car, most don't even notice it which sometimes makes it all the more fun but praise like that makes it all worth the effort and is very appreciated, cheers Jim
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Sept 15, 2015 19:10:43 GMT
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Blimey, thank you Chris and SamR380, I am never quite sure how people see my car, most don't even notice it which sometimes makes it all the more fun but praise like that makes it all worth the effort and is very appreciated, cheers Jim I love your car! I have a massive soft spot for these,esp the 5 door hatch,vitesse even better.
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Sept 15, 2015 20:55:09 GMT
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Cheers optimusprime, again much appreciated. I promised the family I would stay out of the garage for a couple of weeks as thats where I was for the last couple of months, just emerging for work, sleep and food. As soon as I am allowed back in there I will add some updates.
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Nov 12, 2015 22:06:46 GMT
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The front suspension is working quite well now so turning attention to the rear as it is standard other than cut down Spax springs. it is quite a good set up with adjustable camber and toe. There is not much I can do about spring rates if I stick with the progressive standard or Spax spring and seperate damper arrangement. After taking lots of measurements to get some ideas see what might work I found that it must have been running on the bump stops most of the time (couldnt see this with the car on the ground as the damper disappears up into the rear turret) So the idea is to convert the damper to a coilover using 2.25 springs as there are hundreds of spring rate and length combinations I can experiment with. The rear ARB is on soft 20 year old rubber links so will change these to rose joints and find some firmer bushes to fix it to the body. Another job that needed doing was to remove part of the seat brackets to prevent damage to the harnesses, something I kept putting off as its a pain to remove the seats.
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2023 20:56:40 GMT by 820
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