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Sept 9, 2021 22:08:44 GMT
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Perversion of the highest order. One of my favourite threads due to the quality of the work and the photography.
Did you do the paint with rattle cans? A colour and a clear? Or was it with a compressor?
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Sept 10, 2021 19:35:39 GMT
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Perversion of the highest order. One of my favourite threads due to the quality of the work and the photography. Did you do the paint with rattle cans? A colour and a clear? Or was it with a compressor? Thanks for that, much appreciated. It is when you spent a couple of hours fixing some rusty part nobody will ever see that coments like yours make it worthwile. I should also say thank you for the "likes" on the posts they are always noticed and appreciated. The paint is Halfords rattle cans, BRG code HNA, though it is quite different to the body colour HNA, it should be okay as most of it will be covered when reassembled. Primer was bilt hamber high build that I bought to do the wheels of my daily but ended up using here instead, then 3 different clear lacquers I had. I wouldnt attempt any outer panels with that paint. The original plastic PAS reservoir developed a small leak years ago so bought a universal aluminium replacement, it is heavier than the standard tank but I made an aluminium mount to replace the steel mount to compensate.
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Sept 12, 2021 21:22:50 GMT
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Sept 12, 2021 22:27:18 GMT
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Nice job as usual!
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Sept 15, 2021 8:20:00 GMT
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Thanks Peter. I need to catch up on your threads, there are lots of threads here I want to catchup on and will do soon. I changed website host recently and started on a new website for the car Rover Vitesse.com all my forum pictures have to be moved too but I am slowly getting through them and should have most of them working again.
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Last Edit: Sept 15, 2021 8:20:40 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Nov 12, 2021 12:12:32 GMT
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A bit more done to the Rover. The recently restored bonnet catches came out so well, the latches got the same treatment, stripped, blasted and zinc plated with new titanium bolts. Latches fitted with a new aluminium bonnet switch bracket to replace the steel part. I finally got round to fitting the new brake master cylinder. I had been waiting to repair a couple of rusty rear brake pipes. Because they run from the rear brakes to the bias valve under the bonnet, replacing each pipe in one piece is virtually impossible. They run inside the car so it is only last few inches that was corroded so did just the ends. I replaced both sides and they look ok
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Nov 20, 2021 20:23:21 GMT
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Change of plan with the brake pipes. I was not happy with the flares to the cut Rover pipes inside the car. I think the originals are steel and were quite hard to flare, I bought a hand held flaring tool for inside the car but it took several attempts to get a decent flare even then it was still not that great, the tool was sh**. The new short pipes made on the bench were fine, made with a proper vice held flaring tool and the softer copper nickel pipe, they came out fine. They looked ok and worked ok and probably alright if it were just a shopping car but I could not convince myself they were good enough. So had these made instead "Denim" blue hoses with stainless ends I did all four corners while at it. The fronts run direct from the ABS unit to each front brake, the rears have a short metal pipe for each side from the ABS unit to the Bias valve, these are fine so were not replaced. Where the rear hoses run through the car I made some aluminium clamps. These are more secure than P clips and a bit more compact
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Nov 21, 2021 17:29:17 GMT
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One job always leads into another. The ABS sensor lead brackets needed to be altered slightly, I needed to cut one section off and replace it with a little bracket for the new pipes to clear a raised edge. They were pretty rough so were blasted and plated. Painted dark metallic grey (Rover charcoal) and refitted. That should be the brakes done, I expect they will need one more bleed through as everything was drained or replaced and there is bound to be a bubble or two lodged in the ABS unit, pedal feels good while up on stands.
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Back in the early 90's I used to work for a multinational electronics company and we had a visit from one of the 'big bosses' from America. He wanted a car to use whilst here and so we got him a Rover 825 Vitesse. He was disgusted and told us to take it back and get him a Jag or a Merc.
That's when I decided that rather than America being a classless society it was just a society without class. I'm generalising of course... 😉
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Nov 24, 2021 21:26:20 GMT
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Haha that's typical, unfortunately a lot of people think like that about a lot of things, just gives the rest of us an advantage.
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Nov 29, 2021 10:03:13 GMT
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What kind of plating is this, I'm in the middle of an engine swap and a lot of the parts are going to need some attention before I finally fit them?
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72 MGB GT 88 Daimler Double Six 89 Rover Mini 91 Nissan Figaro 95 Lotus Esprit S4S 18 Discovery
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Wow love those brake hose clamps. How long do they take to make?
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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What kind of plating is this, I'm in the middle of an engine swap and a lot of the parts are going to need some attention before I finally fit them? It is yellow/gold zinc plating
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Wow love those brake hose clamps. How long do they take to make? Thanks James, They were made by hand so each one is slightly different when lined up together but once fitted it doesn't matter, probably about an hour each after a couple of prototypes and shape changes, cheers
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Mar 14, 2022 12:15:28 GMT
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I since found these type of hose brackets are easily available and cheap, I probably could have saved a few hours, but they don't do the exact size I needed so would have needed some work anyway. So an update, although not much has been completed in the last few months I have still been working on the car. Years ago I started re building an engine based on a full race Rover M16 short block, trouble is my car was built with T16 engine and they are not interchangeable, some parts are similar but there are some major differences, the water pump, cooling system, power steering, breathers, belts, pulleys, are completely different and more so for the turbo engines. I have to find a way to fit the T16 ancillaries to the M16 block, the race M16 also has a dry sump pump to accommodate and a one off crank different to M16 and T16 pulleys to add to the challenge. The cooling system is the biggest problem at the moment because of the block differences, after much messing about I have a plan that requires a few brackets and adapters to make parts fit. Some of the casting differences between the two block types. This is the planned layout T16 water pump housing, PAS pump, engine oil pump blank, dry sump pump in position of AC compressor So to where I am at the moment, its not pretty, mostly old parts, mock up brackets, pulleys and tape for belts. M16 race block with T16 Air-Con water pump housing (without the compressor) the housing will require machining and a block adapter and bracket fabricated for the cooling system to work. Where the AC compressor would have been I can mount the dry sump oil pump. The alternator would have bolted to the AC compressor but I can make a bracket to replace that. Currently fitted with a Mercedes idler pulley to route the ancillaries belt where the AC would have been. Mazda 1263mm polly V belt fits (blue tape in picture) Next task is the alternator bracket. This engine is a long term project (over 10 years already) so while doing that I also made some exhaust heat shields for the car. Where the catalyst would be on the standard car there used to be a sort of fibreglass/aspestos and aluminium foil heat shield, I lost it or it got broken a long time ago. Using the car without it the floor and gear lever get hot so I made a new aluminium panel for the tunnel. The exhaust manifold glows when being worked and generates so much heat under the bonnet I am sure it will affect reliability of some parts. I think wrapping it will cause it to crack as it is not the finest piece of metalwork. So to protect the cam housing, ignition coils, upper fuel rail and injectors from direct heat I made another aluminium shield to bolt on the cam cover There is one more part will add tomorrow Thanks
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Mar 15, 2022 16:37:57 GMT
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I added a basic wafer thin aluminium panel to the underside of the bonnet for a heat shield when I fitted the tubular exhaust manifold. It is still there but I reshaped it and added a front air scoop section to catch cool air that passes over the radiator and direct it to cool the coils, fuel rail and inlet plenum. While the front wings were removed over the winter I was able to unblock and open up a two tennis ball size wiring loom apertures at the top rear of the engine bay, these now allow hot air to exit behind the front wings and out the wing to door gaps.
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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A small update. I fixed most of the pictures in this thread that were not working, a few of the really old images were lost but 90% should work now. The car is pretty much back together and ready for an MOT. Most recent jobs completed were some small rust spots on the front of the bonnet, these were taken back to bare metal, treated and painted. The washer bottle lid was the original and worked perfectly but the blue colour had faded, it really didnt matter but bothered me so bought a new genuine cap, now the correct blue and I am much happier. For a bit of weight saving on the suspension the M10 and M12 steel nuts and bolts are replaced with titanium in all but a couple of places where the maximum loads are, those I kept to new factory spec bolts. and finally to get in the spirit of things a custom sticker for the engine bay.
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