Rustproofing

i have posted the same question a couple of weeks ago and i tried waxoyl last week. I must say, the pump works fine, but you have to heat the wax properly up.....





the only problem i had, was the small white hose (don't know the english word) which you can use for the inside of the sills for example ; i could use it once, but then never again... i think i have to put it into boiling water to get rid of all the wax....

Many thanks chaps

Heating up waxoyl is sadly out of the question, as it would be guaranteed to make me homeless

Looks like an Dinitrol aerosol is the way forward. I've also noticed that the evil machine has decided to leak antifreeze out through the driver's side sill drains, so that will need an appropriate treatment ASAP!

I've used that Waxoyl spraying gizmo before, and it works pretty well once it's going. I didn't heat the canister, but used a bit of white spirit in it instead (it suggested that on the tin as well as heating) - that worked just as well. You could use an electric heat gun to gently warm it up too.
Like mrj, I found the little plastic pipe blocked up quite easily too.

Thats how I always used to use it as well.

White spirit is the best for cleaning out the sprayers. Wash it with it and spray white spirit with it gets it pretty clean.

I've got to do our Mini 30 and the Golf again soon, next couple of weeks... I'll probably use an old spray gun with our compressor to be honest but it gets EVERYWHERE ;D Good job I actually LIKE the smell ;D Not so good for in the sills and stuff though, I'll use the spray thing that comes with it so the bucket of boiling water tip will come in handy

I've always used waxoil - in various formats and like above big bucket of hot water to get some heat into the stuff has always served me well.

It's mucky stuff and in hot weather ooozes out of various places but thats probably cos I put too much in!!!

I only use waxoil in cavities never on exposed metal like arches and body shells for that I use the paint on underseal with a high waxoil content that goes rubbery when dry but doesn't crack or peel.

If it's external vissible surfaces I use the spray stonechip guard that can be painted over (but rarely ever is )

I'm about to start sorting this over the weekend.

I have the underside of my car stripped. I was planning on wire wheeling any of the krusty parts of metal and the applying a heavy dose of the black stone chip to the whole of the underside of the car.

then after that just use Waxoil for the chassi rails of the car, and any sections that might require it?? I don't want the underside of the car to be a sloppy mesh though, I want it clean and not messy hence stone chip paint stuff as its not a daily drive car so will not see the hrashest of weather.

can anyone tell me if this is a good course of action to take?? Or any other suggestions??

If I'm back to clean metal I use that hammerite stone chip on the bottom/arches and then waxyol over it. Cant stand 'underseal' once you have had to get it off a few times it gets tedious.

Seth - having seen both of waxoyl's own brand pumps, I agree that the hand one looks much better!

I've been doing some more research and aside from Waxoyl (easily available locally to me) the other obvious candidates seems to be these:

www.bilthamber.com/hydrate80.html (rust converter)

www.bilthamber.com/dynaxs50.html (rust inhibitor & cavity wax)

Although I can find some info on Dintrol, it all seems to be about which ones are for sale, rather than actually being useful data on how or where they shoudl be used..... Can anyone recommend any specific Dinitrol products, and where they should be used?

Waxoyl has the advantage of being cheaper & more easily available than the others, as well as having the two different pumps / applicators . However, I'm not sure about it's ability to penetrate seams (eg wheel arch lips), which is where the Dynax looks ideal. Also Dynax can displace water - does Waxoyl do the same? Their website has hardly any information!!!

Basically, I want to fill the (new) wheel arch seam & then spray inside where the welding has been done. Also, once the heater valve has been replaced, I want to inject the driver's side sill. Obviously I will also rustproof other areas too, but these are the priorities.

There are also a few other areas that I want to treat, but which are already rusted (both surface & in seams) - this poses a few problems as soon I want to have those areas cut out & welded in the hopefully not too distant future but anti rust stuff is flammable A rust converter would be ideal but almost all require washing down afterwards, which is totally impractical for what I have in mind. Does anyone have any recommendations?

However what products or how I use them is also partly dependant on where I end up doing this - out in the street is probably not the best place for using a proper sprayer, but I think that aerosols would be fine as they are more discreet as well as hopefully less messy ;D