1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP (higher axle stands)

Thank very much iant. Posting all this up takes time but makes the journey a bit less lonely. Dedication it is but I still wonder how doing something like this takes so long. I just put my blinkers on and try to think of nothing else and jut keep at it. It's a bit extreme but I can't see how you would finish a project otherwise. It does seem like there are so many that run out of steam and after the distance I've came I have to finish it.

I'm tempted to crack open the main pipe maybachman and see what happens

Thanks Waxoyling Lyrical. I hadn't properly checked the manual/diagram on that part when I was updating the thread but I looked a little closer tonight and coupled with your knowledge it`s shown me why the green wire that seems to hop between all the instruments does so. It will be to regulate the voltage on all of them.



item 64 L2 is the bimetalllic thingy



its regulating magic travels through green or light green/black wires to the 4 small instruments and the tacho



just found out here that my guess (last pic May 11 post)at putting the black earth wire from the warning-lights loom to the spare terminal on the battery gauge is correct

After all the detail about wiring we're back to more visually interesting parts. Trim mostly. The nights I have been at the barn recently (ie Monday) I've basically been peeling glue off the driver's floorpan and faffing about tidying up welds getting ready for this interior painting which doesn't seem to be occuring.

At home I've been mucking around with the dash and finishing off the alcantara trimming.

Basically the glues (white brush-on Evostick and spray glue) which I had used both had their shortcomings and I liked the stuff I was peeling off the floor and was determined to find some. I think I have and it is working well on the trims. It's Dunlop S708.

As for the wood I picked off as much varnish as I could from the dash with razor blades etc but some just won't shift and a hot air gun didn't really do the trick either. I found some nice little walnut door trims from a Hillman Imp/Singer Chamois and experimented a little with them. They are about 10 years earlier than the VDP and the lacquer comes off really easily and the wood is perfect underneath despite it looking really bad at first.

I'm gonna do the old grain-filler/plastic-coating thing on those before I trust myself on the VDP dash. I have turned my cupboards/outhouses/plastic tubs etc inside out tonight looking for my Rustins Clear Plastic Coating kit and it was right in front of me in my kitchen lol . I last used it in about 1997 so it might be rock hard. I'll soon find out.

I bought some paint stripper from B&Q a while ago which seemed to have no effect on the paint on the Daimler wishbones etc but it worked fine taking the Ye Olde lacquer off the Imp parts. Had no effect on the more modern stuff on the VDP dash tho. I'll probably need to sand it off. Will take a while




lots of lacquer off. lots remains



tough to shift in some areas







it's pretty thick




but where it has came off is even spiky on the back



also dug out the carpets which will be going back in soon



Hillman Imp door trims. Lacquer can be scraped off with sharp blade quite easily but same technique on VDP dash behind is akin to scraping a sheet of perspex



this paint stripper doesn't seem very useful



doesn't look like Nitromors etc but worked well on the thinner Hillman lacquer. didn't make a dent in the newer stuff



bought some proper glue to finish the headlining/cant rails etc



ends of from headliner rail threw up a problem with shape of metal behind


new alcantara cut to same size as old cloth but excess was difficult to work as new fabric considerably thicker



so quite a bit trimmed back to make stretching/gluing easier


turned out ok



similar issue to be dealt with on rear headliner rail



but the trim is taking shape slowly


clothes pegs have left unfortunate dents on rear rail when gluing trim on main spar

could you try steam on the dents? perhaps from an iron?

Eh. Perhaps not lol. The hardener seems to have disintegrated its bottle and the 'varnish' is solid. Bet the burnishing cream still works tho. A new kit isn't dear but I could maybe just use varnish.

I have access to a complete engine minus the block! A friend of mine broke up a v12 xj about 8 months ago - he has used the block to make a "topgear" type table. But the interior is in storage and the rest of the mechanical parts maybe available to a good home - i'm up near Perth and the parts are near by - i'll go and do and hunt and see whats there!

Well, it's been nearly a month and I have still been working on the VDP but I got a 2nd hand PC at the weekend so should be posting again regularly.

I have finally got the curved pipe welded to the OS front/mid silencer and it's pretty much spot on.

I'll post some more pics etc soon

That's pretty amazing Down&Out. £80K I think I'd maybe get £8k for this if it was up and running in tip top fashion with the front suspension detailed and a re-spray but that's all a pipe dream just now.

A quick summary of the situation just now and the recent list of unfinished jobs is a follows:

• driver's side front/mid silencer - sorted
• radius arm small bushes - nearly in but have decided they won't go in the last 4 or 5mm by hand so am gonna take the plunge and buy a press
• headling/can't rails - finished. the drama last time with the poor fit of the rear one was due to having the material 180 degrees out
• expansion tank - still in bits as I haven't practiced brazing yet
• coolant crosspipe - same as above
• front fuel return pipe - male fitting not yet attached as I haven't practiced silver soldering yet
• brake servo & master cylinder - not stripped/checked/rebuilt yet
• engine -still seized despite putting a can of diesel down the bores
• floors/inner sills - still not painted as not decided whether to paint as is or gritblast first
• dashboard - nearly all of 'varnish' removed but it's a slow process and I've used 2 full boxes of razor blades so far

I was off work sick for a few days recently and unable to do any heavy work I ended up digging out out all the carpets to wash in the bath and they look good. Strange thing is they seem dirtier in the parts which never saw light.


one of the many pieces of carpet after washing. this piece goes over the transmission tunnel behind the rear console



close up shows pile is not that luxurious...but it is original!



these pieces sit on the vertical face of the rear seat pan. the one on the RHS hasn't been washed



looks pretty good here

Going back to the silencer repair I was determined to get the new pipe welded on at exactly the right angle as I could imagine the frustration of trying to get the system to fit, once the IRS etc was on the car, if the angles were out. I figured the only definite reference points were the outlets of the front & rear pipes as the silencer boxes themselves have no real bearing on the fit and seemed to be a few mm's different dimensionally since one is a newer part. I therefore made a little gauge out of thin steel rods with sheet caps to correspond with the pipe outlets. I made it up against the good assembly thinking all I had to do was flip it 180 degrees to show me the exact location of the outlet on the new piece of pipe....but it didn't work as the angles were also upside down not just 180 degrees out. So.... it was back to tying to find some other reference point. Long story short it is done and the money saved not buying the unit form the USA will go towards my hydraulic press.

Rather frustrating to have to go down that route when the parts are nearly home but I will definitley use the press for other jobs and I can always sell it later


patented exhaust pipe outlet establishment gauge










end result looks pretty accurate once the over-axle pipes are connected and both side laid next to each other



and from other angle




metal tube and hammer brought into play when bushes could not be knocked in any further with wooden block



strips of metal welded on outside of tube in attempt to keep blows centered



looking tantilisingly close here with only <5mm to go



but starting to get messed up at this end and they will not move any further so time to get a press

haha jimspolicev8sdi. I actually tried jacking the bush and arm between the front crossmember the other night hoping the considerable weight of the front of the car would pop it in but it didn't seem to budge.

I must've spent 20 hours or more trying to get them in so I'm not gonna be too hard on myself for giving up on the budget route.