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Jul 23, 2010 15:52:47 GMT
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Its can be easier to take the head off complete with the water pump housing and pump still attached unless you've got a weeping gastet behind one of them and want to change that anyway. You don't need to loosen that large union either (I don't think I've ever un-done one in much messing with these engines), just leave that heater pipe that runs under the manifold attached to the water pump housing at the front. Manifold castings were pretty roughly machined out to the size of the carb. ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) Ahh but if I take it and the rad off I can stand in the engine bay to clean up the block. ;D Serously though thats good to know. Ive never attempted a job of this scale before without help, so am following the haynes manual to the letter. The only things I have ignored are not removing the distributor as it mounts to the block and not the head so I cant see why it would need to come off, or the generator mounting bracket which mounts to the block and not the head as the book says
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Jul 25, 2010 15:48:21 GMT
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Got the head off today which proved interesting and seem to have some bad news The Internals are badly coked up. About a 1mm of carbon on the piston CROWNs and valves. The cylinders are lightly scored and there are definate signs of oil ingress. Now the pistons are holding oil but No3 seems down on compression. So may need the rings doing. This is not serious enough to prevent firing though. The exhaust valves on 2 and 3 are so coked that they do not shut properly. I think the valve stem oil seals on 3 and 4 have gone. And all but 2 of the valves could be opened by hand and removed without the aid of spring compressors. So I'm going to need Valve seals and springs. Ive a mind to change the valves for hardened ones but it depends on the price are they the same as herald 13/60 ones? I have used cellulose thinners and removed most of the carbon and as the oil is to be changed anyway. The bores have been filled to decarbonise the rings. Might mean I don't have to change them. photos of head later of block. The cylinder head gasket has signs of burning but no splits. ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/Image0154.jpg) ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/Image0155.jpg) ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/Image0156.jpg)
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Jul 26, 2010 12:46:47 GMT
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OK have check the head and we have 5 thou of warp between 2 and 3. So the head is being skimmed as we speak. The machine shop are also going to grind the valves and seats to remove pitting and then I will lap them in with valve paste. The charge for this lot is £45 and by the end the head should be as good as new. I don't think thats a bad price but I keep eyeing up a recon unleaded herald head the Paddocks have got for £125. I cant convert the one ive got for that
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Aug 15, 2010 15:06:02 GMT
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ITS FIXED!!! Now running on all four has plenty of power and making me happy. Couple of niggles to sort. Its LOUD one manifold stud has stripped so that will be replaced Water pump gasket is leaking some gasket sealant and a torque wrench is in order. Oh and don't let this happen. ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/Image0198.jpg) Yes that was my inner CV joint. Only symptom was vibration and its now got a new one and running nice
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Sept 1, 2010 18:35:54 GMT
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Bumpers are now changed oh and SM yes the back bumper was "fun" The only way I could get at the mounting bolts was to drain and remove the petrol tank my mind is thinking who thought that was a good idea. :roll: Front bumper is sans overiders and I think better for it. These are pitted but a lot better than the originals which I intend to get rechromed. Pics Before ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/Image0056.jpg) ![](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4309237816_8d6bc16756.jpg) After ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/Image0209.jpg) ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/Image0208.jpg) ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/Image0207.jpg) ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/Image0206.jpg) It will all be one colour again soon. This car is starting to come together and look nice at last
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Sept 11, 2010 17:29:53 GMT
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More progress today. I must be getting good as Bruce hardly fought me at all. The other rotoflex has now been replaced. It wasn't broken but was definatly starting to split. Whilst under the car I noticed that the chassis rail under the battery was holed and very crusty and far too close to the forward subframe mounting for comfort. In fact it bolts into rust so thats the next job and one from the looks of it that will require the engine and gearbox to come out. There I was obviously looking for an excuse to take it apart again and polish it.
Paul
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It LIVES Fuel leak sorted Pump rebuilt again and west wales just heard the sound of a trummy pushrod engine buzzing through the countryside. Major got my mojo back It was almost completly gone after 5 months of trying to get it to run. Fixing one thing and another breaking in quick succession. p.s. anyone who wants to come to Lampeter the beers are on me
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eeek just had a brown trousers moment.
Happily pootiling along at 50mph and the oil pressure suddenly plumeted. Managed to stop before it starting making nasty noises and before it dropped below 10psi. Rocker cover cork gasket had blown. Now replaced and decent pressure again. Also set the timing by ear and its faster, quieter and smoother actually sounds quite nice now.
Luckily no harm done but not something I would like to repeat
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I can't see how the rocker cover gasket would affect oil pressure, unless it lost pressure due to dumping its oil from there? Also, did you not replace the gasket when you did the valves?
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It chucked out nearly all its oil. I did replace the gasket but it doesn't seem to compressed evenly thus blew through where it hadn't compressed. A new gasket plenty of gasket sealant and some carefull torqueing and it seems to have sorted.
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Oct 26, 2010 12:54:32 GMT
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Ive had a thourighly excellent weekend only 3 break downs, the car starting too look better despite some interesting subframe problems. Things started on Saturday evening I did a head retorque prior to the cars first long journey since the head came off. Come 3am Sunday the car was packed and on the road to the Resto show at stoneleigh. I got 30 odd miles then TWANG dugger dugger dugger 3 cylinder power. That had me crapping myself wandering what on earth had happened. So at the side of the road in the early hours of the morning I removed the rocker cover and the problem became apparent. No 4 inlet push rod was no longer attached to its rocker arm, 2 mins later it was and no harm done. The rest of the journey passed without incident with me arriving at the rendevous just off the M40 at Warwick at 08:15. Then I drove in convoy and set the car up on its stand, pulled the wheel of to start repairing some rust damage to the chassis rail. As you can imagine the site of a subframe mount that was no longer attached to the subframe was not a welcome one. This was the area of rust that we had decided to repair ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/100_0571.jpg) I'm afraid that repair went out of the window as the subframe mount was far more urgent. The remnents of the mounting where removed to reveal that the subframe and the member that it bolted to where both sound. ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/100_0568.jpg) and the most likely cause was determined to have been a leaking battery. in the abscence of the neccesary spare part. Some lateral thinking had us spreading the load over the top of the rail with a spreader plate and very long bolt. The rust you can see in the pic is surface and only weakening the structure well away from the plate. ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/100_0576.jpg) although not the correct way of repair it has got the car home and should hold untill a replacement part can be sourced. This is what it looked like from underneath. Exactly as it should have looked all along ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/100_0577.jpg) After that bodge was done I had an hour or 2 left over so in that time decided to sort the patchwork quilt paintwork. The result is that the drivers side front wing is now all one colour again. ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/100_0567.jpg) ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/100_0575.jpg) The paint has now dried a fair bit lighter and is in fact a very good match. I even had time to sort out one side of the bonnet so have a pic for the before and after effect ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/100_0578.jpg) [img src="http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/100_0579.jpg["] The journey home was also eventfull. In taking the rocker cover off I had managed to disturb the external oil feed so thought as it was leaking quite badly I took it off halfway home in an attempt to reseal it. Big mistake it emptied half its sump in 5s flat afterwards. Que waiting for the AA for 2 hours for the sake of a little copper washer that might have cost 20p but I just didn't have one with me. tata for now Paul ![]()
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Oct 26, 2010 13:15:40 GMT
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Excellent work and dedication to fully utilising the benefits of your AA membership!
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Last night there was a fireworks display opposite my house and we where all commenting on how much petrol they must have put on the bonfire to start it in the rain. As it stunk. Went out this morning and it still stunk. Oh dear that will be my car then. Knowing that some areas of the tank had been petropatched I correctly assumed that it was the tank leaking so out it came. Took it into the garden cleaned it up and put a nice thick layer of chemical metal over any thin looking areas. ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/Image0003-1.jpg) Now that was probably enough to seal it. But in case of future leaks in the boot as I'm sure thats whats caused this I decided to take some preventitive measures in the form off ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/Image0005-1.jpg) yep that is fibre glass try and rust through that!! ;D The whole underside got a layer and then it was trimmed up neatly and left a full day to cure ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/Image0006-1.jpg) Then finally a nice coat of stone chip paint. Now it looks good as new and hopefully will never leak again fingers crossed eh. ![](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af262/pauldaf44/Image0007-1.jpg) Tata for now Paul
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Nov 19, 2010 13:20:57 GMT
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The rust faries have been at work again. I decided to trace why my front carpet was waterlogged. So pulled it out Ive got a small patch to repair on the inner sill. Doesn't look to difficult having dug out all loose rust and cut back to sound metal it needs about a 5p peice size patch. I'm kicking myself for not pulling the waterlogged carpet when I first noticed it as this repair would not have been neccesary. More worrying was I thought I would try and trace where it was coming from put my hand up behind the dash and CRUNCH oh dear looks like a nice big hole in the bulkhead behind the dash. At least that hole leading to the drainage channels explains the water. But it looks like more than an afternoons work to repair. But I have the possibility of some indoor storage with power and good lighting. On the plus side there is no way on this earth that Mr MOT man would ever find that rot. But I have so It will be fixed.
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Had some measure of success with this car this morning. 1st job was doing the alternator conversion. A small amount of bracket adjustment and its fitted and lined up. Next step was too wire it in. Not as straight forward as first thought. The existing wiring was used but I had to remove the voltage regulator pack on the bulkhead. Join together the dynamo and field wires. The lights circuit then had to be spliced into this wire and the wipers directly earthed to the bulkhead. Done fired car woohoo its charging and strongly so switched off. Ahh it carried on running even with the key out :roll: Easily fixed by running an inline diode. Alternator fitted electrics converted now working. We also had to bypass the ignition light as that circuit was causing the non-charging fault in the first place. That will be repaired in due course. 2nd job was to fit the speakers and wire in the headunit. Done Bruce now has tunes Then ran out of time so set off for home how did Bruce repay me? By shearing the joint between down pipe and silencer so a quick roadside bodge involving and exhaust splint has it together but it will require some welding :cry: Hopefully one day this car will just be happy with the work it gets and not throw me another job straight away. Paul p.s. the headlights are so much brighter and it even feels a bit smoother stronger spark I suppose
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If it ran without the ignition switched on you've made a mistake in your wiring. The diodes in the alternator are the only ones it needs.
Also, a failed warning lamp might stop an alternator charging, but it won't stop a dynamo charging.
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The diodes in the alternator where tested and where faulty, hence fitting an external one. The dynamo was pretty rough to turn and the brushes almost gone. But hey its converted now and it works. I will repair the short in the warning lights circuit in due course and reconect it
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Is the alternator used for this sort of conversion one of them Lucas ACR types? If so, it's the sort that I'll be looking for when I come to do the conversion. I can't see the logic of ditching a broken dynamo for a broken alternator in this case though. ![:-/](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/undecided.png)
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Last Edit: Feb 2, 2011 13:16:36 GMT by BenzBoy
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It wasn't supposed to be a broken alternator. It was brand new but for the hassle of sending it back for a replacement it was cheaper to fit an inline diode than to post it back again. Still a bit peived off.
The alternator is a Triumph 1300 dolomite unit. That was bought through a triumph specialist. You can fit an alternator mounting bracket of a 1300/1500 dolly or as I have done adjust the original bracket to take an alternator instead
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That's annoying. Does that sort of alternator have a diode pack that's easily removed? Just thinking you could order one and fit it fairly easily if so.
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