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Hold on, have you actually repaired this or just glued plates over the bran flakes with a lot of filler? ;D
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lol
Yes it is welded and not all filler. I realised just how over the top I went with the filler which was there just too smooth out the welds and give a good finish when I went to sand the thing down today needless to say it took a long time but does now look proper smooth and all that.
Paul
For that matter I'm gonna go out and do some more ;D
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More finishing work on the sill today resulting in it being all in paint well primer anyway.
Sorted some frankly terrifying wiring I am suprised the car hadn't caught fire and got the reversing light to work again. All be it wired to a switch on the dash. Going to crack out the welder again tomorrow and see if I can tackle the holes above the repair in the wheel arch. I am wondering now why we didn't just cut more out and weld a bigger panel in.
Once the passenger side sill is closed off I will feel a lot happier at the moment I'm having to use this as the DAF has such a bad carb problem its virtually undrivable.
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Mar 25, 2010 17:15:02 GMT
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A bit of progress on this today no pictures as when it wasn't raining I was welding and when it was getting wet rushing the welder inside ;D.
Today has brought the following
1. Seat adjusters and runners had seized. After copious ammounts of WD40 they are now free.
2. Completing step 1 allowed the seats and carpets to come out revieling a mostly immaculate floor pan. The one patch on rust in the drivers foot well is now gone and replaced with solid metal. I also noticed something odd. There are cracks around the seat mounting bolts but no rust whatsoever surely I'm not that heavy.
3. As said floorpan welded sealed and lovely new carpet installed and it has made a huge difference to the interior which now looks good!
4. Seats went back in with some wrestling to line the bolts up with the holes in the floorpan through a carpet with 2 washers in.
5. New wiper blade installed and side lamp holder replaced.
It all looks fab. I will get some pics of the finished affect when the rain stops. Oh and I had a chuckle so you probably will too under the carpet I found a zippo lighter and a packet of cigars ;D. Suites you sir.
Paul
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Apr 23, 2010 17:25:47 GMT
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"%"!&^%"& "&(*!"&"(!* "!^£*&^" Fitting rotoflex couplings is !%"&^ hard. Especially when you get as far as unbolting the coupling itself and then discover that you have very stupidly forgot to put said car in gear. Much swearing and stropping insued before putting it all back together again and starting afresh this time in gear! Also discovered fitting the strut assembly without spring compressors is a bit evil as well.
On a good note rear seat belts are now fitted and I have got a new head gasket for it as well. All in good time MOT on wednesday you better pass Bruce or else!!
Paul
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good work mate, let me know when it's MOT'd, wouldn't mind having a ride in it  |
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Apr 24, 2010 10:59:27 GMT
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Sorted some frankly terrifying wiring I am suprised the car hadn't caught fire and got the reversing light to work again. All be it wired to a switch on the dash. I swear I said this before, but if that was for the MOT, you do realise they don't actually fail on reverse lights not working? Though it is nice to let people know when you're going backwards I guess. ;D |
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Apr 25, 2010 21:31:22 GMT
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Sorted some frankly terrifying wiring I am suprised the car hadn't caught fire and got the reversing light to work again. All be it wired to a switch on the dash. I swear I said this before, but if that was for the MOT, you do realise they don't actually fail on reverse lights not working? Though it is nice to let people know when you're going backwards I guess. ;D The reversing light was just a loose wire so after some tidying of wiring a nice quick easy fix at no cost |
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Apr 26, 2010 18:05:34 GMT
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Can Bruce throw anymore rot at me. Oh yes he can and here it is. Update time didn't get anywhere near as far as I thought we would today as this lot was craftilly hidden and really needed to be rectified sharpish. I'm glad I didn't try to use that jacking point. Thanks to Mantaray (retrorides) for all the help with doing this lot. Another load of work complete that was 100% worse than it looked at first glance. Bottom of wing was cut off to give access to jacking point which revealed that there wasn't much structure to the leed end of the sill left especially after attack with knot wheel.   Next set about repair new metal welded in to give some thing to build a new structure for the end of the sill from.  Forgot to take a picture of the next step but it was to weld a top panel in to close the sill. To which we welded this shaped and solid.  Ground tidied and seam sealed. It doesn't follow the original design but is strong. I will have to watch out for dirt trapping on top though.  2 more bits of metal to be let in then the bottom of the wing can go back on. Full day of work on this tomorrow and it will hopefully end up finished. Paul p.s. this rot had been hidden by soaking some old rags in underseal and glueing them on top such that it actually looked strong here. |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,244
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Apr 26, 2010 20:03:07 GMT
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Jesus, quite a bit more than expected eh?
And welcome to bodges. A Midget once owned by me had its rear boot floor corners made of Polyfilla very carefully shaped and soaked in copious amounts of underseal. I eventually got replacement panels after hacking out all of the Polyfilla.
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Apr 26, 2010 20:35:52 GMT
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Yeah unfortunatly when you start digging thats what tends to happen at least it will be solid when finished. The aim is to get it MOTd wednesday afternoon.
Paul
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Apr 27, 2010 20:14:21 GMT
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The last part of project Bruce is issued today. More extensive rot to the sill in hindsight I would have replaced the whole thing with repair panels.   The end of the sill got a plate and some underseal.  The completed forward structure of the front of the sill all nice and solid.  Nicely undersealed ready for the wing to go on  Oh joy more unforseen rot nice plate at the back of the sill sorted that one  welded inn  Wings back on and a nice skim coat of filler to smooth it all up   Then work started on the engine bay. Strut was removed and the casing pulled back into place. The seams where then welded back down and a plate was applied at the back of the strut. A layer of sealant finished it off  The same was then done on the other side. After that we tackled some other general holes which where done to put the MOT tester in a good mood. Bonnet corner  Other places where some of the wheel arches and the top of the wing and A pillar. Then on went the paint. Sill  Then I got creative Bruce got some fetching eyebrows and the black paint was extended around the arch.   All outside washed and waiting for an MOT tomorrow fingers crossed. Need to get some green paint made up to cover the grey patch and then after a nice polish this car might just start to look the part! Hope you enjoyed the update as it took an hour to type. Paul |
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Jun 17, 2010 18:07:14 GMT
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This triumph still no starty!!
Been playing today decided whilst the battery was out and charging I would tackle the non functioning horn. Traced the fault to the steering wheel wiring. Result off comes horn bar breaking all the little plastic fasteners in the process. Problem traced to the brush between wheel and column being missing. Iginuity in the form of two bits of wire and a spring gets it working.
Whilst doing that I inadvertantly gave myself more work. Whilst swearing at the horn bar trying to get it to unpop It gave and in the proccess my hand ripped of the indicator stalk. Que even more swearing and hunting around the shed for a big enough socket and a really big breaker bar to release the steering wheel lock nut. The only way to remove the plastic covers on the steering column is to remove the wheel. Got it off and discovered that my hopes of just knocking things out of place where optomistic. In fact I had pulled the base of the stalk through 1mm thickness contact plate at a rivit site. It must have been on the way out anyway. The stalk has been bodged with insulation tape untill I can get a replacement and even works. Mind you do have to be really carefull when operating it.
I also decided to take the oppurtunity of the steering wheel being off to free up the reach and rake adjustment and better still mount the steering wheel the right way up ;D something ive been meaning to do since I got the car.
Then conected up the charged battery bypassed the ignition so the coil was getting 12.77V of which it is chucking 2 off straight down the drain and attempted to start. Turned over lovely and fast but still no firing. I think this confirms that the coil is to blame. As a result I want to get a replacement. The autofactors around here want £30 so I thought I would try one from a scrappy so does anyone know which cars will have compatible coils.
Lucas 12V with Push in high tension and spade connector low tension.
Paul
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Jul 19, 2010 15:15:28 GMT
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Just got the car back with some very bad news. Cylinders 2 and 3 have no compression and it is running purely on 1 and 4. I think the head gasket has blown but obviously it will need head of to be sure. Get this it sounds as normal as it has all the time I have owned it.
Video proof a smoothly running 4cyl on 2.
Not very happy now. But I have all the replacement bits in stock so it can be done straight away.
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Jul 19, 2010 16:47:55 GMT
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hopefully it's just popped between pots 2 and 3 and a new gasket solves the problem. Should be a bit peppier running on all four! Good luck with it  --Phil |
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Jul 21, 2010 17:21:48 GMT
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Option 2 has been taken. Car is now somewhere it can easily be worked on.
The car has now moved 7 miles up the road. To somewhere nicely off road. This means tomorrow will see the head come off and we will see what we have then. Because of the amount of meat between pots 2 and 3 I am slightly worried the head may be warped. If so it will be skimmed. 50mph on 2 cylinders I think was quite impressive. Mind you I only took it 2 miles then got it transported the rest of the way.
I am in 2 minds now that its off the road as to whether or not to pull the whole engine, do the headgasket on a bench and clean everything up before it goes back in. This will also be the perfect oppurtunity to do the welding needed in the engine bay. Namely under the battery. I'm setting a deadline this car will be back on the road in 3 weeks time and be going to the rr gathering.
It will it will it will.
Can anyone reccomend a good place that will skim a cast iron head for a decent price?
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,537
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Jul 21, 2010 20:55:55 GMT
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Whip the head off if you fancy but check the tappet clearances before you do, just to check if that is the cause of the misfiring.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable. |
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Right. I have to take the head off anyway as the gasket has blown round the oil channel and is chucking about 1/2 a litre of oil out every 3 hours of running. I will check the valve clearances as I haven't looked at them since ive had it
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Jul 23, 2010 15:22:31 GMT
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The strip down has started today and I can confirm that all valves open and close as they should. Turned the engine by the starter ring with the rocker cover off. Todays list Fuel lines disconected. Dynamo removed Fan belt removed Carb instalation removed Rocker cover off Manifolds off Rocker shaft off. I have also drenched the heater pipe union in wd40 as its currently preventing the water pump from being dismounted along with the jubilee clips holding the rad bottom hose on. Which also wont release. When I get back to it the wd40 should have done its stuff then the water pump can be removed. Mounting bolts already loosened and the pushrods pulled out. Then the head can come off easy as all the head bolts have been loosened off in the correct order as well. One thing I will say is whoever thought the positioning of the lower mounting bolts on the inlet manifold where a good idea should be shot with all haste. All in all everything has come apart relatively easily with the exception of the manifold and down pipe union and heater pipe union . Happy at the moment. We will see how happy I am when the head comes off though ;D a few pics of todays escapades.  manifolds came off with a bit of persuasion in the end.  rockers look okay and this engine looks ruddy small with most of its peripharals missing. Mostly looks ok couple of things noted. Internal bore of inlet manifold is scored where it mounts to the carb no idea what could have caused this but it was working with it like it so its going back on ;D and the engine oil is quite black and smells a bit burnt. With the level of work being done on this engine it and the filter will be changed as a matter of course so probably not a problem either. Plan for tomorrow and next day is. Finish getting the head off not long now. Change the rad, seems the ideal time to do it with the cooling system drained. Change the gasket remount head and check for compression. If there everything goes back together and Bobs your uncle if not take the head into town and get it skimmed and Bobs your uncle ;D. Oh and sort out the minor electrical problem resulting in no lights other the headlamps or dash gauges ;D we seem to be on track for the gathering Paul |
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Last Edit: Jul 23, 2010 15:46:43 GMT by pauldaf44
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,537
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Jul 23, 2010 15:46:29 GMT
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Its can be easier to take the head off complete with the water pump housing and pump still attached unless you've got a weeping gastet behind one of them and want to change that anyway. You don't need to loosen that large union either (I don't think I've ever un-done one in much messing with these engines), just leave that heater pipe that runs under the manifold attached to the water pump housing at the front. Manifold castings were pretty roughly machined out to the size of the carb. |
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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