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Jul 30, 2016 11:20:27 GMT
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Last Edit: Jul 9, 2016 15:28:28 GMT by Bozwell
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) double antiroll bars permanatly fitted both brakes now done and to show standard wheels still fit 6 speed gearbox modified to fit and for the gear lever to be in the original position (note S800 gear Knob the engine being tarted up. will get the rocker cover painted body colour, fit a modified sump then it can go in.
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Jun 13, 2016 21:07:00 GMT
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It mighy have a pretty lumpy cam in it to make that kind of power. Are you sure your not confusing that with bad fueling? Mighty make it hard to handle 'just off idle' that's why carbs like that were fitted in the day. a single carb has high vacuum so a lot of reversion and charge robbing occurs. fit separate runners there can be no charge robbing and less of a vacuum gives less reversion. you could easily fit a big single carb to flow full power but they really run bad for normal driving. Webers give much better drivability on a tuned engine, they are not just for power. as I said before, there is so much more than just jetting to get the driveability correct. and it can be done but usually can take days to get right where as full power tuning can take less than an hour. iv'e drilled extra progression holes before. iv'e also drilled the butterflys to change the fueling at lower rpm (later carbs have an air bleed to do this but they are usually mistakenly set for balancing the idle. they are NOT to balance the idle). changing the float height can change light throttle tuning so you cannot always go by book height settings. I normally see off idle leanness so to counteract that you can fit an idle jet with a smaller air hole to start to see what that does. the idle jet has two holes. the one in the end for fuel and one in the side to act as a fuel brake. what happens is that as engine speed rises the engine will draw more fuel and get richer and richer. to stop this air is introduced into the fuel stream through the jet. fitting a jet with the same fuel hole size and a smaller air hole size will idle about the same but be richer off idle. i.e. 55F8 can be changed for a 55F9 (the F number never makes any sence when it comes to the size of the air bleed so get yourself a weber book) the Emulsion tube for the main jets is a much bigger version but does the same thing. they come in different widths and hole positions to bleed air into the fuel stream to alter the fueling at different throttle positions and engine speeds. but luckily you wont need to touch this part as it sounds pretty well sorted.
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Jun 12, 2016 10:30:36 GMT
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I was thinking 45.
the 40 uses different numbers. 151 seems the favorite choice.
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Jun 12, 2016 10:17:56 GMT
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I also read off idle hesitation is usual with dcoe? that's because 90% are not set up properly and it's more than just jets and tweaking. float height, progression hole position, and if it's the later carbs with air bleeds, as well as the idle jets will need setting to get a good light throttle drivability. progression holes are fixed but different body numbers have different position holes. the DCOEs need to be matched to the engine (and to each other if in pairs or triples). Ford usually have DCOE9 though I have drilled carb bodys before to modify progression. if they are new carbs they may be DCOE152 with three progression holes or DCOE152G with four progression holes. do you know what type are fitted? good idle when cold says to me too rich hence stalling when hot. need more info of carb type and idle jet size to be able to give more advice.
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May 19, 2016 22:12:17 GMT
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£1000 and you get a free car with the bits.
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iv'e stuck a link on the S800 forum. same PCD.
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Apr 30, 2016 20:26:50 GMT
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ECU and loom is still there.
missing front antiroll bar, engine, gearbox, radiator, exhaust, braces, hoses, air conditioning.
I have some of the parts I took off to sell separately but can do a deal on those. the front antiroll bar I have had powder coated and is 30mm instead of the standard 27mm.
for another £200 you can have all the bits I took off the car to sell t I still have.
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Last Edit: Apr 24, 2016 8:51:21 GMT by Bozwell
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2016 9:51:09 GMT by Bozwell
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Apr 17, 2016 10:15:30 GMT
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Apr 13, 2016 17:00:44 GMT
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bttt
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Last Edit: May 21, 2016 9:32:51 GMT by Bozwell
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Mar 28, 2016 21:20:18 GMT
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that's the only picture I have. must be around 1990 when I had it. apparently brought to the UK in 1984 for the Hong Kong embassy (story I was told). hence the A plate.
highly specked for the year. disc brakes all round, independent rear suspension (4dr had leaf springs), air conditioning, deep carpets, electric pillarless windows, power steering etc and as you say fuel injection with catalytic converter. not bad for '77.
was in really nice condition with only very minor bubbles of rust under the paint on the front wings and boot lid when I sold it.
desperately needed more get up and go though. was just way too slow with the 2.0 six cylinder and automatic gearbox.
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Mar 28, 2016 20:46:22 GMT
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I had one of these in the UK super rare car over here. the electric wing mirrors are quite funky. I paid £600 for mine. I think long since scrapped now though. really slow but looking back it would have been easy to fit a Celica Supra engine. if only.... mine had a little bell in the dash that tinkled constantly at anything over 62 mph. got a little annoying but I never disconnected it.
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Last Edit: Mar 28, 2016 20:50:20 GMT by Bozwell
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Mar 19, 2016 21:44:27 GMT
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its not a curve its a kink. if you make the kink at the bearing end it'll try to bend the halfshaft at the bearing and will wear or snap very quickly. making the kink at the diff end makes the tube lean forward or upward (depending where you put the weld) and the halfshaft will be in line with the bearing and just lean slightly at the diff where there should be enough play in the diff splines to allow a bit of articulation.
obviously there will be a bit of accelerated wear which doesn't matter in a race car as the axles are rebuilt quite often. the more camber will create more wear at the diff splines. normally you only want half a degree max camber or 1/8th toe in because a solid axle will stay pretty much parallel to the ground as the car leans over. where as a car with independent suspension when it leans will have the suspension lean with it requiring more camber to compensate.
HTH
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Mar 19, 2016 21:21:35 GMT
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make sure where you make the bend, either by heating or welding, it is as near to the diff as possible.
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