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engine finally finished All fired up and runs nicely, fitted a facet electric pump with a 2psi regulator to prime the mechanical pump (and allow me to bypass it totally if needed) currently running with no exhaust and pretty deafening, needs a little tweak to the timing as its idling a little quick at 850 rpm (flatties normally idle around 5-6oo rpm) www.facebook.com/tim.fox.7982/videos/10156174793937492/?l=100165993155142796not sure if the video link will work as its on my FB account, but if so, then thats the culmination of my first enigne build. more body work to come over the next few weeks now its technically running and driving, albeit illegally
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Last Edit: Apr 10, 2018 9:45:12 GMT by foxye28
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Mar 28, 2018 11:14:35 GMT
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Flipped spindles would definitely be a better way to get the drop you’re after than further cutting down of bumpstops etc. By shortening the springs you’re effectively forcing the suspension geometry into full deflection, and that’s going to compromise even further a setup that probably wasn’t brilliant in the first place. Bump-steer isn’t the only thing that you need to take into consideration. Fortunately though, I’m sure there’s enough tried and tested methods of getting what you want without having to find it all out by trial and error. I had a hell of a job trying to drop the front of my P4 a bit and gave up in the end. On the P4, at least, it would have been easier to drop the arch down the wing than to re-engineer the entire front end. At least with a US Ford you’ve got some serious backup when it comes to spares and modifications; with 1950s Rovers all you’ve got are the “Drivers Guild” and a couple of specialists, all of whom get their knickers in a twist if you try ordering parts whilst not dressed in plus-fours and a tweed cap, let alone if you suggest the heresy of modification. Do they try and sell you 'regalia' when you call them up too?! lol
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Mar 28, 2018 10:06:45 GMT
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The bit of car that the bumpstop, stops on? Is it possible to trim it a bit? Yes i'm going to totally remove the bumpstop tbh, i used to run no bumpstops on my old VW and never caused an issue, might just leave a tiny sliver of it for the sake of MOT. Well todays update, got engine turning over on the starter, but my cheap chinese coil was curse word and wouldnt make a spark, so its not yet fired up, but no reason why it shouldnt when new coil arrives. Found a few little coolant leaks (need to rebuild water pumps as they are weeping, but thats not hard, hardest bit is going to be propping up the engine while i do them one at a time as they are the point where the engine mounts bolt to!) I have modified a customised ally bracket to allow me to fit a 'vintage alternator' which is basically a slim line alternator designed to look like a genny/dynamo, and i can use my original pulley with it. Need to make up some wider spacers to perfectly align the belt but its looking sweet in the bay Those of the eagle eyed persuasion (or anyone who knows old flatheads, which is probably not many!) might notice I have also removed the road draft tube and replaced it with a PCV valve setup off a mustang to try and keep water out of the oil, and limit the smoke cloud following me, and allow the oil vapoyrs to circulate at idle
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Mar 22, 2018 16:57:09 GMT
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if the colour is 'blackberry wine' then I had one of these (well my dad did but i drove it around when i was 17) and they are awesome, I really want another 940 turbo estate, but i'm looking for manuals, might have to settle for another auto though, something to thrash around and still carry axles, engines and sheet metal!
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Mar 20, 2018 12:10:32 GMT
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I have a box of Frost stuff, not used it yet but i'll report back when I have
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Mar 19, 2018 13:43:59 GMT
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Snowbox Ford
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A lot of these wheels are just standard wheels on other makes. I was told mine were off the shelf when they were custom made with alternate dishes and barrels etc... which was then followed by a hubcap pic. It was at that point i kinda lost the point of the thread and thought it should be renamed 'wheels the OP thinks are cool and nobody elses opinion counts'
Which is cool, but thats really for a folder on your desktop lol.
Some cool wheels admitedly, but still no idea of what it takes to 'make the cut'
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Mar 16, 2018 10:19:55 GMT
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I've been guilty in the past of selling things on because I resented spending too much on them for bits I couldnt do myself, and then regretted it, and wished i'd just spent the money and got more enjoyment out of it.
My last e23 BMW being a prime example, I wanted it on air suspension, but I never got round to buying it/ having it made, and I sold the car, but i'd have probably still had it as my daily if i'd coughed up.
Wanted to build a 2.3 stroker and uprated gearbox for my VW type 3, sold it, never did it, regret that a bit too.
Determined not to do the same to my latest 1950 Ford, this is a keeper (like all the keepers before it lol) but I'm not worrying about the resale value etc... and i'm building it the way I want, sod the trends, its gonna be a car for me, and if someone else likes it and ever wants to buy it then so be it. But i'm not gonna let money get in the way, i'll save up, i'll sell and trade and learn new skills to get it how I want
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So, in the absence of being able to test fire my engine (i'm still waiting on my new vintage alternator to arrive and i don't want to fire it up only to have to strip it down again to fit new belts and bits of loom!) I decided to finally set up the stance. I had a set of aerostar springs, which are progressively wound and fit in the orignal spring pockets to give a 2.5" drop over standard. That wasn't enough for me (I come from a background of low VWs and BMWs, so i wanted looooow) so i chopped a coil off with a grinder... Yeah, that'll do... Dropped the front A arms, the springs aren't hugely loaded up when the car is in the air, so i didn't need compressors to remove them, cleaned up and painted the A arms, fitted new springs with uprated shorter shocks, chopped an inch out of the bump stops (more is needed as later pics will show) Now thats a nice 'hotrod rake', it'll sit a bit lower when filled with fluids, and the bodywork fitted, which is why i've already decided i need to get this stance in a more sensible way. So i'm going to be flipping the spindles and swapping sides, which will give me another 2" of drop, but crucially allow me to regain 2" of suspension travel. Dez has advised me on how to mod the steering arms and tie rods to eliminate bump steer and correct camber issues. I will also be measuring up for airbags, just a simple setup, 2 bags linked with a T-piece and shraeder valve to pump up to ride height, management and onboard compressors can come later. All i'll have to do is enlarge the spring pockets in the A arm and the upper arm, and open up the shock mount to allow the air line to run through, there is space to mount a shock on the front lower arm with a bracket welded to the frame at the top. All because this: Is not really much travel! I can gain probably an extra 10mm bu cutting bumpstop right down, as the springs being so short are very stiff and with the harsh shocks it doesnt bottom out when i jump up and down on the front frame rail, but airbags and flipped spindles will give me a more useable car.
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i think they are mazda or mistsi but my google-fu is lacking today Love those. The pattern across the middle reminds me of the 80s Austin logo. They arent something like Starion Turbo wheels are they? or that kinda ear japanese car?
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Just pimping my old e23 BMW, Kerscher RS 9.5 and 10x17 Very nice, but straight off the shelf, so not awesome. They were made with custom offsets to fit the e23, wider dishes at the rear and altered barrels for the front as they don't come standard in that size, but point taken if i'm wrong regarding that being custom!
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Just pimping my old e23 BMW, Kerscher RS 9.5 and 10x17
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did the OP on facebook say it was 'on a drive' and abandoned? surely if its a driveway its private property and you can abandon anything you want on it?! If not then half of all my old cars are at risk as they havent moved in god knows how long lol
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heartbreaking pictures those are
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Absolutely gutted for you man, you've helped me out with so much advice and guidance over the last couple of years, so ive chucked a bit in the donation pot and the offer of help fixing stuff up is there whenever you need an extra pair of hands.
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Really tempted. Had a 240. Single carb even with 5 speed (mine was 4) must be terrible on fuel, 240 certainly was! Really still want it though lol
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Feb 27, 2018 13:14:32 GMT
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great progress.....I love the patina pattern on this car...will you be able to match the sills with the green paint, or will they be a different finish?... Those steel wheels look great too... and the engine.... JP I periodically machine back the paint and it does come up alright (the palisade green bits i mean) so the plan is to get some rattle cans matched up to the shade thats on the filler cap (as its the easiest to remove and get matched) and then i'll blend in from the bottom up to midway on the doors and quarter panels, and it shouldn't be too far off, nothing that wont be disguised by the chrome trim anyway. I agree i do like the patina pattern on it, its mostly the result of years in the desert and all the horizontal panels are bleached and burnt down to the primer and the vertical ones are just faded
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Feb 27, 2018 10:35:21 GMT
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Like this. I knew Sweet FA about Y-blocks until I read Dez 's posts so be interested to see how this goes. Said mate is Dez and its one of his multiple old Y blocks he has in his shop, he made me the sump the same time he was making one for his own Y powered Shoebox, and as you say, is a wealth of knowledge on what fits etc....
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Ok, so February updates coming up: Finished off building the bottom end and got the sump on and painted Built the valve train and fitted water pumps and heads Started cleaning up firewall and removing some of the heater pipes and blower motor for refurbing, and painted the firewall satin black and the chassis rails in chassis black anti rust Wrapped my standard exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe in exhaust wrap #becausehotrod. and i didnt feel like fitting proper dual headers yet for reasons I will reveal later flywheel back on new release bearing to go along with new clutch plate Stuck it back in the car, after a lot of swearing, lost knuckle skin and wishing i'd removed the tranny along with the engine! doesnt look too sad in there removed the over riders from the bumpers to sell on and clean up the lines front and rear So we are now left with this: all wrapped up in a taro while i wire up the ignotion and fit radiator etc.. The reason why i've not gone all out with headers and multi carb inlets on the 8ba is because i bought this off a mate: 239ci Y block OHV engine out of a 1955 f100, with sump modded to fit a shoebox crossmember, a large 2bbl carb from a 272 and it will later have some larger valve heads and port work done, as well as being skimmed to raise compression, so should run nicely for a baby Y, and put out i'd estimate, around 50bhp more than the flatty once i decide on a cam profile. It will have dual rams horns headers! So thats where we are, other than me chopping another inch of the already lower than stock front springs then immediately deciding to go down the route of airbags on the front.
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