froggy
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Posts: 1,099
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No major issues with the running gear so made a start on the interior . Never had a decent nights sleep on the old bed which used the cushions from the rear bench seats so came up with a new set up with a sliding extension to make it a 6ft bed . The other problem was the boxes under the bed were only accessible by taking the cushions off and the amount of curse word needed for a holiday meant adding a roof box and a telescopic ladder to get at it . Not impressed that I've smashed his bed to bits Steel frame is actually lighter than the pile of wood that came out Saw so many different materials that I gave up and went for the same colour as the van
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Oct 14, 2013 18:15:54 GMT
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i have a customer who does minibus conversions so i just buy direct from him but its available from all the camper trim places .its very similar to whats used to trim speaker boxes . glue is £25 for a dozen from the bay . one thing i would look at is binning the roof carpet and using some white board to brighten it up inside and it doesnt absorb odour like carpet can especially if you are doing any cooking inside the van .
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Oct 13, 2013 20:35:42 GMT
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I'm re fitting m my van and the proper stuff is around £6 a square metre m I bought 20 sq metres and a 12 pack of spray glue for £120 to do my lwb ducato I stripped the old carpet off and the modern stuff is stretchy and easy to work with .
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Oct 13, 2013 20:24:14 GMT
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Sunbeam parts ? They bolt straight in
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Use some welding rods between the centre studs with the manifold bolted to your scrap head , use a plumbers torch with Map gas and heat the manifold and flange whilst slowly tightening the outer bolts to push it flat , you'll feel the outer bolts getting easier to pull as the flange heats up .
Done this a few times and got the flange flat enough to finish on a belt sander
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Ed pulls the original front end off due to it being narrowed without shortening the rack then does exactly the same thing with the jag subframe ? No doubt the rack was sorted but the "sale" I doubt it actually happened as there was no mention of it being iva tested after losing its entire front end
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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I tried that as well but a compound set up has to have the throttle pre supercharger to work which makes chargecooling the air hard work without having a huge plenum volume and poor throttle response .
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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With the turbo behind the charger lifting the throttle caused a brief spike which was enough to push the rotors apart and touch the case even with two bov pre and post supercharger . Once plumbed in properly it worked really well with pretty much 1 bar on tap instantly but mapping was a major pita As my management is map Tps so no way of measuring mass airflow
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Last Edit: Oct 2, 2013 18:31:21 GMT by froggy
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Having the throttle after an eaton blower is a bad idea as even with big blow off valves you get air going backwards through the charger which does them no good and the situation is even worse with a turbo behind the supercharger , I trashed an m45 in a few minutes with this layout.
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Sept 12, 2013 19:57:56 GMT
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If your going for the volvo I would look at an early motor with cable throttke as the later electronic ones are hopeless and a lot harder to wire up . Budget on a few parts for the crank breather system and a new rear crank seal . Wiring is just powering up the ecu and fuel pump but leave the purge valve wiring and valve in to stop it showing a fault code , the early stuff isn't obd but has a little box in the engine bay with a jump lead and led for reading and clearing codes . I got a few diagrams off a volvo forum and it took a couple of hours to separate the bits of the engine loom I didn't need but I had the luxury of a donor car so I could get it running with the stripped loom before pulling the engine out . Plenty of spare holes on the inlet side for a mount and the bolt holes around what was the driveshaft bearing carrier on the other side would work . The downpipe in rwd layout would have to double back on itself but it also means you can come off the turbo with a nice straight piece with a generous bend to turn it back round . My donor had a chipped ecu but the td04 is all about low down spool and I've put an mbc in to keep the boost at 10psi rather than 14psi .
I had a manual 3 litre s type and it was pretty gutless below 3500 rpm
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Sept 11, 2013 12:45:04 GMT
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I bought a complete t5 saloon for my camper conversion with the early motronic system so very simple to wire . Pretty compact at the front end so should go in a scimitar but the sump is front well so could have issues mounted in line .
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Sept 7, 2013 13:03:11 GMT
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That's your interpretation , maybe your area office are of the same opinion but that isn't to say its the same in another area . I had a site assessment yesterday and the ve was of the same opinion as me , stripped interior , cage and uprated suspension etc would be classed as modified .
The fact that the bulb can be removed makes the whole subject a bit of a joke to me .
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Sept 3, 2013 12:24:53 GMT
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Wiring a t5 Saab ecu is pretty simple , the stumbling block is the sump as its front well and sits at an angle . I do steel sump kits with a laser cut 5mm flange that would sort you out but as said the early volvo would be a simpler swap in a sierra . In terms of tuning the Saab is well catered for with a few different ways of Hooking up to the ecu with either a USB/bdm for around £40 or the can USB lead at around £100 . The Saab system has the best knock control system I've seen on an oe ecu with individual Cyl knock count and ignition trim so can protect itself from det once you start pushing the power levels . Never had a det related failure running 500+ hp for many years .
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Airbags missing is I bit more tricky but an aftermarket steering wheel and all other bags removed is what i would need to see to cover myself to pass and advise . The term used is cars converted for rallying but any stripped out car would fit the description
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Sept 1, 2013 21:37:48 GMT
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Light on = fail Light not working = pass and advise And SRS light on = fail SRS light failing to light at all = fail (used to just be an advisory however) This is the problem I've come across on every thread I've ever found about airbags and the MOT. Are you both MOT testers? And if so, are you both interpreting the same rule differently? I'm an a/e so need to get things like this cleared by my area office so my staff don't decide to use their own interpretation , The only rfr is for the lamp indicating a fault in the system , nothing in the guide about the Light not working . There is an rfr for airbags missing but the special notice about modified cars would cover this in most cases .
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Aug 31, 2013 19:27:26 GMT
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Light on = fail Light not working = pass and advise Aftermarket steering wheel etc in stripped out or modified car = pass and advise That's how I see the current rules
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Aug 28, 2013 21:16:40 GMT
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Axminster tools do a 12mm or 19mm tapered Reamer for a tenner . I used it to alter the ball joint taper and it worked fine .
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Aug 24, 2013 14:24:08 GMT
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Get a copy of maximum boost by corky bell .
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Aug 23, 2013 15:39:01 GMT
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non turbo as well as cosmetically challenged
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Aug 23, 2013 14:28:50 GMT
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You'll see peak egt several seconds after the event so pretty useless and they take a while to settle down , if you fit one put it in the downpipe and add a couple of hundred degrees to give a ball park figure , they will read ok up to 600 but fitted before the turbo they are rubbish .
A better test would be to put a boss in the manifold with a bit of steel pipe linked to a boost gauge and measure back pressure compared to boost to see if the turbo is choking
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