820
South East
Posts: 790
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Jul 27, 2014 15:48:09 GMT
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Thanks for the replies, I didnt expect that but I do have access to a Mig welder at work, sounds like I'm better off getting everything prepared then get it to work to use the Mig. What I might do though is use the Tig on the bench to weld the nut plates to the panels and a couple of strengthening ribs before they go on the car, also a couple of small jobs inside the car, as I just spent a fortune on gas and rods. Thanks again, I will keep this updated. These are the plates to be welded, no corrosion just adding strength for the harness anchor points.
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Last Edit: Jul 27, 2014 15:50:44 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Jul 27, 2014 15:28:17 GMT
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Thanks for the links, the Dinitrol product range looks good, an outer sill also needs a dent repair, this has an undersealed texture, painted in the car colour, I might be able to find that on there to. cheers
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Jul 26, 2014 13:07:31 GMT
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Hi, I treated myself to a TIG welder a couple of years ago so I can weld different types of metals, I am a nuts and bolts man by nature and not had much experience of welding other than Arc welding heavier gauge metals. The time has come to fire it up to weld 2mm mild steel plates to the underside of the footwells on the Rover. It is an AC/DC 160 amp mains powered TIG from RTech, Ive got the rods and pure argon gas and the panels to be welded are almost ready. I plan to watch some TIG videos and practice on some scrap but any tips or do's and don't's would be appreciated, especially welding from underneath as I know from the arc welding its tricky as the weld wants to run off the job when upside down. Thanks Jim
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Jul 26, 2014 12:49:01 GMT
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Hi, I had some welding done causing the underseal and paint to burn off under the car, the bare metal has begun to rust so I need to clean it up and underseal it. Plan is to treat the metal with a rust treatment then underseal over that. Are the rust treatments any good? which is the best? and any recommendations or tips would be great, thanks Jim
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Jul 23, 2014 21:10:03 GMT
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Amazing cars, fastest of all the hot hatches at the time and so underrated. I was working for Austin/Rover when these came out, it was tradition to take apprentices out in these and scare the s**t out of them. Didnt these have the big poster adverts with something like "The Ferrari will be along in a second" Hope it goes to a good home I'm sure these are a good investment for the future.
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Last Edit: Jul 23, 2014 21:10:39 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Jul 16, 2014 10:08:11 GMT
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The T and M series have all been done, but they are by no means engine marvels in my book. I considered these myself, but chose a Ford Zetec after being adviced so by one of the few that has converted a MGB to a T-series. The blacktop Zetec fits fine with minor mods, but it is not up there with an Alfa V6. Plenty of options! Mmm I need to get out in some of these cars and get a feel for the engine and power delivery, I suppose there is a battle in my head between a particular swap being different, powerful and interesting, and being practical haha Plenty of options indeed M and T series are very good engines, the only thing that lets them down is they are heavy, its an old block but very strong. If space is an issue with the turbo version a standard normally aspirated multi point injection T is about 140hp, with a few mods like cams, exhaust and ideally engine management 160hp is easy. A 2.1 twin cam 16v B would be good though
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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I think M or T series is the only way, they are based on the B series block so things like your engine mounts will bolt straight on, the gearbox and backplate will bolt straight on, all the ancillaries are out there from Land Rover and if you go turbo you have a bog standard 200hp or with aftermarket ECU you can achieve 230 or so hp on the standard engine. You can pick up an 820 Vitesse for just a few £'s, and its a MG Rover engine. Or is it possible to fit an M or T series twin cam 16 valve head to the B block and convert to belt drive, what cc will a B go out to? this might not work but I bet someone has tried it. Steel crank, 1900cc, twin cam B series on fuel injection would be good.
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Last Edit: Jul 16, 2014 9:28:16 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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The lap belts had been attached to the floor by eye bolts screwed through the footwell into captive nuts welded to your standard small square back plates, something I fitted quickly years ago, probably ok in a low spend bump but in any kind of heavy impact or roll completely useless. Though the backplates were tacked on my guess is the footwell would deform causing to much slack in the lap belts or even pull the eyebolt and backplate clean through. The plan was to add these plates in 3mm mild steel and weld them to the underside of the footwells. But after a bit of staring decided this would only prevent the eye bolt pulling through, the footwell could still pull up under load and still not strong enough. So looked at the original factory fixings for the rear belts that just so happened to be positioned perfectly for the shoulder belts to attach to, this panel is solid, it is at least double skinned and judging by the number and positions of the spot welds there is more bracing behind. Plan B is to make much bigger plates so the footwell is double skinned over a larger area underneath between the seat crossmembers. Templates for 2mm thick plates,
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Last Edit: Jun 3, 2022 10:14:39 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Jul 12, 2014 13:21:43 GMT
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This is particularly in reply to the first post of this thread, I skimmed over a lot of the discussion up to here and could not get away from the reference to the style of the old British cafe racer bikes and how you might build an equivalent car. A good British engine, a good British built frame, stripped of unnecessary parts, lots of noise, something different. This to me is my 4 wheeled cafe racer if you like, its British, its simple, the bits that don't matter are removed and the bits that do matter have been altered to make it faster. It started out as a sleeper but over the years has become less so, despite being relatively modern, it is build to for the road, its uncomfortable, loud and you wont see another one like it. I don't think it fits into any group or style other than clean and functional, so could this be close to what your thinking.
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Last Edit: May 7, 2017 11:41:02 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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I would say once you have removed all the dirt and any loose corrosion and oil, spend a bit more time on the visible parts then the Hammerite can be painted on without primer.
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Thanks Shampoo. After the cage was fitted new seats and harnesses were fitted, that was about 2 years ago, it still hasnt moved but several youtube motorsport crash vids later has inspired me to strengthen the floor where the harness mounts attach. So next jobs in the cramped garage is to get the car up high on stands and weld some steel plates to the floors and add a bit more to the seat mounts.
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Last Edit: Jun 3, 2022 10:13:44 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Great pictures, amazing cars but this is so cool
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Brilliant pictures, friend told me this was on weeks ago and I missed it, I hope its on again next year, its marked in next years calender. Love this, what was it fitted to, is it an 8 Gordini?
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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May 25, 2014 16:46:06 GMT
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Thanks Qwerty. Got the brake pipes back from Speedflow, chose blue for continuity as there are a few other blue parts under the bonnet. I had to make brackets to secure them to the suspension upright with P clips. New driveshaft gaiters fitted and everything bolted up both sides I had a bit of trouble with the pipe thread adapter not sealing very well in the N/S caliper, its a taper thread so with a brass taper fitting into the ally caliper is never going to be tight so wound it in as little as possible but it kept leaking overnight, now fixed. Rear pipes from Goodridge as they were the only firm that could do the block the pipe uses to mount to the body, and a coat of paint for the rear calipers to match the fronts. Not a great fan of these things but the Rover is fitted with a bayonet brake master cylinder cap so bought the eezibleed and universal adapter, that is not universal enough for Rover, so had make brackets to get it to work. Lots of small jobs also done inside and outside the car, sun visors refitted around the cage, wiring refitted and routed through the car, undersealed the rear floor and turrets where the cage welding had burned off the protection. Thats where its at for now.
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Last Edit: Jun 3, 2022 10:12:57 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Apr 13, 2014 13:52:39 GMT
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Love the car, that was a very lucky find. Just my opinion but glad you opted to keep the Marina standard, I think standard or very subtle is the key to any changes with this car, great work. One day I want a perfect 1.8TC Coupe. This is my old metalic blue Coupe, I loved it.
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Last Edit: Mar 8, 2014 20:38:25 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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What a fantastic collection, its going to take some time but should have no trouble finding buyers. It must break his heart to know its all got to go. Is he there to tell you the stories behind it all?
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Its slowly coming together so time for more pics. New ball joints and a tin of paint Caliper bracket fitted Close but good enough clearance with bracket bolts and disc bolts Caliper fitted, much to my relief everything aligns nicely, spotted the cracked driveshaft gaiter so thats another job. Pads aligned on disc Thats the nearside pretty much how it will be, just waiting for the pipes. So time to clean the garage floor.
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Last Edit: Jun 3, 2022 10:28:12 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Those mounts look fantastic. Are the rods one off? James Cheers, the rods I believe are the same dimensions as Rover V8 and Metro 6R4, fortunately there are some spares. Cheers Robinxr4i. I should have the brake pipes next week, so fitting new ball joints and coat of paint for the hubs just now, but you know how it is, while it is apart I,m looking at making spacers for the top arms so it can be lowered a bit more and keep the geometry near to standard.
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Last Edit: Mar 6, 2014 21:50:21 GMT by 820
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Thats a real shame, I have been following your work. As above, good job nobody is hurt, no doubt you have had lots of advice about what to do but from experience probably best to just wait before making a decision about the car, get everything else sorted out then take a logical look at the car.
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