taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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To add photos use either photobucket and copy the img link, or I use this imgur.com/ and then copy the link for boards (also img) Photos are essential to get interest from anyone who will have to travel to look at it. Particularly good quality photos of areas like the inner wings, sills, arches. What year is it? If you're really stuck for adding photos I'll pm you my email address and then post them for you.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Mar 21, 2013 11:32:09 GMT
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Go on ebay for some Quicksilver 'Powertune' - powerboat engine cleaner. Evinrude & Johnson also do a similar product. I've used it to clear deposits on ally engines. For really tough stuff you might need to leave it overnight.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Mar 19, 2013 22:21:13 GMT
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Love the bus - love the caravan.
Your hard work is a credit to bus
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Mar 10, 2013 13:51:50 GMT
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I second the PlusGas advice - I took my '72 Viva to bits with only one seized bolt using that stuff.
Good quality jack(s) and axle stands are essential.
One of the best tools I used to remove rust was a powerfile - I never rated them before but fitted with ceramic belts they remove rust back to bare metal better than anything else in confined spaces.
Invest in some good rust treatment - I use Dinitrol but there are equally good alternatives. Don't waste your time with the stuff from Halfords.
Good quality inspection lamp is a must.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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This the same one as on Allcorsa?
If the feed is live to the pump then it's almost certainly going to be the pump itself.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Feb 24, 2013 21:37:58 GMT
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That looks it will keep you out of mischief for quite a long time. Looking forward to progress pictures.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Feb 23, 2013 13:49:50 GMT
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Talk to Fred on VVOC - I think he's got some sills - at least when I was down at his last week he asked me if I needed any.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Your best bet is to keep an eye on ebay for someone selling an entire front axle. There's a guy on the Viva forum breaking a HC estate which will have discs. Personally I'd keep it as drums as they work fine if set up right and it keeps the value of the car better. My HC is a bit odd in that it has drums all round and no servo, I rebuilt the whole system with new cylinders and it flew through the MOT brake test.
IMO the only advantage of discs is they don't overheat as quickly, in terms of stopping power drums are just as good when set right. Apart from they need to be manually adjusted I suppose. But since it's there to be played with that's OK.
You need a disc version steering knuckle, but I'm almost certain the only difference between the drum & disc hubs is the rear seal.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Feb 16, 2013 23:04:14 GMT
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Had a bit of luck and found a rear wheelarch repair panel - which was the one bit I was missing for the bodywork repairs Since these are like hen's teeth to find I'm going to see if it can be repaired using a piece cut out of a scrap shell so this repair panel can be saved - but at least I can proceed knowing that once cutting out begins the part is available to put it right if needed.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Feb 16, 2013 13:43:04 GMT
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Cheers guys - that's very decent of you. I just wasn't sure if you were into the work of stripping it apart.
The top shock bolt is the one that runs horizontally through the subframe and then through the eye in the top of the shock - there's a steel tube in there which rusts up solid on most Vivas. Since this has been modified I'm guessing the person who did it will have greased that bolt - but if not then they can be stubborn.
I'll pm re. the price of the parts and cost of courier.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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If this is being stripped for parts can I have dibs on the springs please if Mike doesn't need them? (Not sure what's meant by 'uprights') I assume that refers to the steering knuckle.
When taking to bits expect the top shock bolts to be locked solid with rust, unless whoever installed them put plenty of grease in there. Don't chuck the wishbones etc as there's always people needing them. I've got some going to a guy today so I know they'd find a home somewhere.
(If stripping to get the bits Mike needs is a problem I might be able to trailer the whole thing and take it to bits and then send Mike the parts he needs - then make the rest available to anyone who needs Viva parts. Just depends how you guys sort it out. I don't want to interfere with arrangements. If Mike takes the whole thing and strips it but doesn't need the springs bear me in mind please.)
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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They work very well if you don't have access to 240v. Otherwise I'd use a low amp maintenance charger.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Jack - from the way you say you're using the joint splitter that won't seat the taper back in the hole which is what you need to do. I know you want to remove the ball joint, but the joint has to stay seated until the nut is fully removed. Don't put a splitter anywhere near it until the nut is off.
The top end of the stub will always corrode and that's where the nut sticks.
If all else fails the nut splitter goes around the nut with a tapered blade that screws into the nut and literally cuts one side of it open. Once that's done the nut comes off easily.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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In that case why not use a nut splitter on it? Simplest way to get it off.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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On occasions I've used a dremel and cut a slot into the top of the stub - held it with a screwdriver and that did the job. Usually works as a last resort.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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If it's there it'll be on the top of the stub - ie where you screw the nut down. But they don't all have them.
If there's grease/oil in the joint that can cause issues - they need to be dry to grip.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Hi Jack - glad to hear you've made some progress.
I do as above - put a small jack under the joint and get some pressure on it. One of mine has an allen key 'socket' in the top of the balljoint thread which is very handy.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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I've used it and never had any problems with it blocking things - I suspect it takes more than a single dose to do any damage.
I had a mate with a Golf radiator that had a huge leak in it - as a get you home I said I'd try Radweld, but I didn't think it would hold it due to the size of the leak. It fixed it instantly and it's still running the same rad. years later.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Keep an eye on www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/index.phpI picked up a Clarke 90 on here for about £40 I think - and started to learn on 1mm steel and 0.6mm wire using CO2. It took a few goes to get anything half decent, but the website above has been useful for advice (and constructive criticism!)
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