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Ive just got new spring for my Chevette and set about changing them, took forever to get the balljoint to pop off, finally got it to pop and now the bolt is just spinning, wont loosen and wont tighten Any ideas? Thanks, Jack
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Ive just got new spring for my Chevette and set about changing them, took forever to get the balljoint to pop off, finally got it to pop and now the bolt is just spinning, wont loosen and wont tighten Any ideas? Thanks, Jack Jack under the ballpoint!
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eko
Part of things
Posts: 39
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Bottom ball joint put a jack under it,top ball joint use a long bar to press weight down onto it.
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BMW E30 24v
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Hi Jack - glad to hear you've made some progress.
I do as above - put a small jack under the joint and get some pressure on it. One of mine has an allen key 'socket' in the top of the balljoint thread which is very handy.
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As above, get some pressure on it.
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Just tryed putting some pressure on it, put a jack under the balljoint and put all the weight on it, still just turning the whole thing Where abouts is the allen key socket located, on the top or bottom? Thanks
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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If it's there it'll be on the top of the stub - ie where you screw the nut down. But they don't all have them.
If there's grease/oil in the joint that can cause issues - they need to be dry to grip.
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eko
Part of things
Posts: 39
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Try putting pressure on it then using impact ie a hammer on the spanner/ratchet to shock it back on a few turns. Blow lamp to melt the nylock in the nut would help.
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BMW E30 24v
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chop it off and fit a new BJ
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If you've put pressure on it and it still spins then it is probably grease contaminating the taper. Best stuff to use to clean it so that it grips again is aerosol brake cleaner - if you don't have some then I can't recommend enough how useful the stuff is to have around for cleaning stuff!!* (get it from your local factor - only about £3 a big can)
*only thing you need to be careful with it is if you are welding... pools of brake cleaner can become a very nasty substance if welded over.
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- '80 Mk1 Vauxhall Cavalier Saloon, 3.0l 12v... in progress with some special plans ahead - '94 106 Rallye, Endurance Rally Car
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I cant chop it out becuase of where it is... id end needing a new brake pipe Will brake cleaner stop the taper from turning? and do i need to rub it in etc or just leave it to soak for abit? I have carb and choke cleaner if that helps lol
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basically any solvent that will clean off grease and/or oil might do the trick. once the taper is clean then it ought to lock up tight when you put pressure on it with the jack and allow you to tighten the nut up (or untighten it... whichever you are doing)
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- '80 Mk1 Vauxhall Cavalier Saloon, 3.0l 12v... in progress with some special plans ahead - '94 106 Rallye, Endurance Rally Car
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Will go put that on and leave to soak for an hour or 2, i really need to try get it done asap as need the space its takeing up as doing a clutch change on friday
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Will go put that on and leave to soak for an hour or 2, I really need to try get it done asap as need the space its takeing up as doing a clutch change on friday it wont soak for more than a few mins it evaporates quickly you use it to flush all the oil out/off
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R.I.P photobucket
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Tryed everything today, the thing just wont unbolt no matter how much i try
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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On occasions I've used a dremel and cut a slot into the top of the stub - held it with a screwdriver and that did the job. Usually works as a last resort.
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Get something between the top wishbone and shock so any pressure on the lower arm acts on the bottom joint rather than compressing the spring . Blow torch on the nut and if it hasn't been out on cross threaded it will come undone . Heat works better than anything out of a can .
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Ill walk to the shop in the morning and get a blowtorch can thing, only thing I'm worried about is the brake pipe that runs to the caliper cm's away from the bolt, will this cause problems or will it be okay aslong i don't get to close with the blowtorch?
Thanks all!
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Sorry to hear you're still having issues. Just fitted new hubs to my mk4 astra this evening and every sodding ball joint span... a bit of patience and some pressure and brake cleaner sorted them out.
Only use a blowtorch on the balljoint nut if you intend on replacing it as you'll probably ruin the gaiter on it. The only technique that works 99.9% of the time is an impact gun. Honestly the best tool to have in reserve for tricky tasks like this - though only ever use it if you know the thread is good, or you could end up with having to cut the ball joint off.
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- '80 Mk1 Vauxhall Cavalier Saloon, 3.0l 12v... in progress with some special plans ahead - '94 106 Rallye, Endurance Rally Car
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Because of where it is, it would be impossible to get an impact gun in their, but i do plan on changing both balloints as their preety much ruined from hammering curse word out of them lol Heres a pic for a better of the little b*****d
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