|
|
|
|
|
|
hey chaps new car arrived but it has a problem it starts for 10 minutes either driving- idling on the drive and cuts out and wont start till about 20 minutes later, i have checked the coolant sensors /coolant thats not an issue the fan doesnt even kick in so its not getting hot, it occured to me that when it does die and you try to start there is no 'buzzing' from the fuel pump , so would cutting out after 10 or aso minutes and refusing to start till another 20 be a typical sign of a duff fuel pump ?as i have got a new relay - didnt make a difference to be honest
cheers guys its for a 1.2 8 valve corsa b -( no crank shaftsensor bnefore you tell me to change that )
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Check the fuel pump relay (IIRC it's the bottom right one). Bridge the two terminals marked 87 and 30 on the relay in the fuse box with a paperclip or something (you probably won't have 87a) and the fuel pump should run, and the car should start on the key.  If the pump doesn't run, then the pump or something else like the ignition barrel or ECU could be faulty. |
| |
Last Edit: Mar 4, 2013 17:14:07 GMT by cobblers
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
hi cobblers thanks, but i have a new relay in there made no difference the relay seems to be not at fault? any suggestions based on my problems above in the topic?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ah, missed that. Still worth checking the relay is being switched by the ECU (ideally with a multimeter or at least listening to see if it's clicking on and off as it should be)
If the relay is clicking the fault is probably "after" the relay, if it isn't being switched then the fault is before it and could be the ECU, the ECU relay, the ignition switch or any number of things. Do the dash lights (check engine light etc) still work as normal when the car won't start?
|
| |
|
|
taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
|
|
|
|
|
This the same one as on Allcorsa?
If the feed is live to the pump then it's almost certainly going to be the pump itself.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ah, missed that. Still worth checking the relay is being switched by the ECU (ideally with a multimeter or at least listening to see if it's clicking on and off as it should be) If the relay is clicking the fault is probably "after" the relay, if it isn't being switched then the fault is before it and could be the ECU, the ECU relay, the ignition switch or any number of things. Do the dash lights (check engine light etc) still work as normal when the car won't start? hi cobblers , when the car cuts out and i am waiting to start i can hear the ecu/ relay (what have you) clicking i forgot to mention that , the ignition lights all come on just i cant for the life of me hear the fuel pump buzzing when it has cut out once i have to leave it for a good 20 minutes and try again and it starts-(then cuts out after 10 or so minutes) can you kinda see why i am thinking its most likely the 20 year old fuel pump is going bang?  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This the same one as on Allcorsa? If the feed is live to the pump then it's almost certainly going to be the pump itself. hi taurus yes , as you probably know and just read there is live there when it cuts out and try to start it and it doesnt start you can hear relay/ecu clicking so thats what i thought the fuel pump itself i have ordered it should be here tomorrow or day after. i suppose cutting out starting later on are the symptoms of a duff pump hey ! |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Assuming they are an inline pump the same as cavaliers etc etc, a new pump is only about £25 on ebay, and its definitely not an uncommon way for them to fail (they get warm, expand and lock up solid inside, then work OK once cooled down)
Have you run the car low on fuel recently?
Personally if you do suspect the fuel pump, bridge the relay so that it's running without the engine on, then go in the house for 10 minutes, come back out and see if it's still going. That'll rule everything out other than the pump wiring (assuming it doesn't flatten the battery, but you should be OK)
If you can reproduce it with the engine running or not, check for power to the pump itself.
|
| |
Last Edit: Mar 4, 2013 18:08:38 GMT by cobblers
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Assuming they are an inline pump the same as cavaliers etc etc, a new pump is only about £25 on ebay, and its definitely not an uncommon way for them to fail (they get warm, expand and lock up solid inside, then work OK once cooled down) Have you run the car low on fuel recently? Personally if you do suspect the fuel pump, bridge the relay so that it's running without the engine on, then go in the house for 10 minutes, come back out and see if it's still going. That'll rule everything out other than the pump wiring (assuming it doesn't flatten the battery, but you should be OK) If you can reproduce it with the engine running or not, check for power to the pump itself. hi mate, yes same as cavs access under the rear seat so no crawling on my back, the previous owner did run it on low/no fuel this could possibly be why the pump has packed up! cobblers i shall try to do that test you just said before I take the old pump out , I can put money even with engine not running the pump will not be running after 10 minutes- it all makes sense now. cheers youre being really helpful mate |
| |
Last Edit: Mar 4, 2013 19:31:23 GMT by slammage
|
|
