sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jun 18, 2009 13:13:03 GMT
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Jun 18, 2009 13:15:26 GMT
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I'd copy the one in the bottom pic. I know that has wide arches but you could narrow it suitably
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Jun 18, 2009 13:15:31 GMT
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Just make it like the one on the P6 in the bottom pic. Cardboard templates FTW ;D
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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Advice please on rover p6 air dam Davenger
@dminifreak
Club Retro Rides Member 140
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Jun 18, 2009 14:43:15 GMT
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Yeah, narrower version of the P6 racer. Motion carried methinks ;D
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bryn
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,913
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Jun 18, 2009 14:57:43 GMT
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Same again from me, but make it from alloy rivet it on to the wing, but keep it seperate from the main airdam. Then duplicate the shape but with more or a tail reaching across the front valance and mount that peice higher up, to give a canard effect... Something like this, but in alloy.
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Volvo, Buggy, Discovery and an old tractor.
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Jun 18, 2009 15:30:23 GMT
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I'd get a bit of welding wire and tack it to the very corner of the air dam then run it in a smooth curve up to the bottom front edge of the wheelarch where the lipped parts stops, you'll get a nice smooth curve to make a template from that way.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jun 18, 2009 16:20:11 GMT
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I'd get a bit of welding wire and tack it to the very corner of the air dam then run it in a smooth curve up to the bottom front edge of the wheelarch where the lipped parts stops, you'll get a nice smooth curve to make a template from that way. Now that's a good idea. I think I'll make an endpiece using the welding wire method, weld it to the wing in the same way I've welded the existing air dam to the valance, and keep the panel join going vertically down. Then at a later date, I can add the extra bit underneath to compliment the full width. Next question's, do I go as far as the edge of the tread, leaving the sidewall showing from the front, or from the edge of the sidewall showing from the front, and would a series 1 aluminium grille painted black work better that the original black plastic grille? I think I've made my mind up by suggesting it though
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Jun 18, 2009 16:38:15 GMT
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I'd use the "suckitandsee" method as far ashow far out to go, you'll be able to get an idea what it looks like with the welding wire i reckon, easy to adjust till you like it then. And yes, i've always prefered the early front end as well.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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bryn
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,913
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Jun 18, 2009 17:16:19 GMT
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Go with the early grille, I'm sure you've figured that one out already... Try cardboard shapes taped into place first, always a winner and a lot easier to work with...
But more importantly, is there a build thread for this? I'm intrigued... Looks great ;D
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Last Edit: Jun 18, 2009 17:17:01 GMT by bryn
Volvo, Buggy, Discovery and an old tractor.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jun 18, 2009 19:18:01 GMT
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I think I'll leave the sidewall visible, and start from the tread, and run a gentle curve down to meet the existing air dam. The welders near that corner so I'll probably do that tomorrow ;D Clicky linky thing to build thread Thanks guys
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