keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Body & Paint Threadkeyring
@keyring
Club Retro Rides Member 47
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Me again... I’m planning to get some of these arches for my patrol, looking for advice on fitting them, I was planning to use rivnuts and then button head allen bolts, but I’m open to suggestion, once I’ve drilled holes for the rivnuts, should I just prime and paint the holes via brush?
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Body & Paint Threadkeyring
@keyring
Club Retro Rides Member 47
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Anybody fitted similar before? Just looking to make sure I have what I need ready to get them fitted once I’m home Thanks Me again... I’m planning to get some of these arches for my patrol, looking for advice on fitting them, I was planning to use rivnuts and then button head allen bolts, but I’m open to suggestion, once I’ve drilled holes for the rivnuts, should I just prime and paint the holes via brush?
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Body & Paint ThreadRitchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Me again... I’m planning to get some of these arches for my patrol, looking for advice on fitting them, I was planning to use rivnuts and then button head allen bolts, but I’m open to suggestion, once I’ve drilled holes for the rivnuts, should I just prime and paint the holes via brush? I find that Rivnuts only really work on thicker material so they have something to bite into, I think they would be pretty rubbish on a thin panel. I would just use M6 domed bolts with SS nyloc nuts and SS washers.
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Last Edit: Mar 5, 2019 7:34:54 GMT by Ritchie
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Body & Paint Threadkeyring
@keyring
Club Retro Rides Member 47
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Me again... I’m planning to get some of these arches for my patrol, looking for advice on fitting them, I was planning to use rivnuts and then button head allen bolts, but I’m open to suggestion, once I’ve drilled holes for the rivnuts, should I just prime and paint the holes via brush? I find that Rivnuts only really work on thicker material so they have something to bite into, I think they would be pretty rubbish on a thin panel. I would just use M6 domed bolts with SS nyloc nuts and SS washers. I have that concern myself, the only issue with using nut and bolt, is i'll need to check if I can access the rear of rear arches, hopefully I can, but i'll need to double check..
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If not you could use the square plastic nuts which expand when you screw into them, only takes a few minutes to file the holes square.
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Regardless of what you use though - yes use a good etch / zinc primer around the hole that you have drilled or filed
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Body & Paint Threadkeyring
@keyring
Club Retro Rides Member 47
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If not you could use the square plastic nuts which expand when you screw into them, only takes a few minutes to file the holes square. That might be an idea, I think I know the style you’re talking about... Regardless of what you use though - yes use a good etch / zinc primer around the hole that you have drilled or filed I thought that was the case, and I’ve had a can made up of the body colour so will probably give it a blast of that too!
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cheapest inroad to square plastic expanding nutserts would be land rover floor plate, if you ebay part no. RTC3744
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Last Edit: Mar 6, 2019 14:43:39 GMT by darrenh
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Body & Paint Threadkeyring
@keyring
Club Retro Rides Member 47
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cheapest inroad to square plastic expanding nutserts would be land rover floor plate, if you ebay part no. RTC3744 I'll look them up, thanks
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Mar 10, 2019 18:09:04 GMT
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Chris - On page 9 you mention that the brand of thinners is important...
"So what grade paper are using for flatting back with to start with - Has Mark states orange peel is down to the paint viscosity and how heavy / thick that you are applying it - Just looked up Lechlar Macrofan 5 which is a cellulose paint has you state but what thinners have you used ? name / brand / type please and that will give a good idea has to what is going on - what spray gun type and any ideas on what size fluid tip & needle that you fitted to it - some idea of the air pressure at the gun was would also be helpful"
What brand do you recommend? Most of the stuff I have seen appears to be generic/unbranded except for Tetrosyl. Can you give any guidance please so that I don't end up with cans of cr*p when I go shopping at the NEC.
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Mar 10, 2019 19:07:42 GMT
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Chris - On page 9 you mention that the brand of thinners is important... "So what grade paper are using for flatting back with to start with - Has Mark states orange peel is down to the paint viscosity and how heavy / thick that you are applying it - Just looked up Lechlar Macrofan 5 which is a cellulose paint has you state but what thinners have you used ? name / brand / type please and that will give a good idea has to what is going on - what spray gun type and any ideas on what size fluid tip & needle that you fitted to it - some idea of the air pressure at the gun was would also be helpful" What brand do you recommend? Most of the stuff I have seen appears to be generic/unbranded except for Tetrosyl. Can you give any guidance please so that I don't end up with cans of cr*p when I go shopping at the NEC. Ok - So for cellulose paint they are various thinners: Gunwash - Is exactly what it says it is - is a very low grade thinners that's fine for washing / cleaning & degreasing but nothing else Premium - Is good enough for primers but I would not use it for top coating High Gloss - Is what you need for applying the top / gloss coats with - it can come in Fast (ideal for using in colder temperatures) Slow (ideal for higher /summer temperatures) You would be ok with Tetrosyl branded products - or any of the recognised paint brands - personally I would never use a unbranded thinners or unheard of brand - the confusion mainly lies in people assuming that 'Premium' thinners is ok for applying colour / top coats with - well you can but the results will be very poor Does this answer your question - don't hesitate to bug me for further info if not
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Mar 10, 2019 21:48:12 GMT
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Thanks Chris. The 'premium/best/high quality labled thinners are exactly my problem, in that I rely on what it says in the tin, not knowing the real quality of the stuff in the tin. For example this unbranded can...
from Autopaints Brighton, illustrates my dilema. I am getting my cellulose top coat through the Triumph Sports club, so I assume that it will be ok. It gets good reviews from other members. It was your warning about out of date paint and poor quality thinners that worried me as I don't know enough about the good stuff... but I know a man that does. I have already got Bilthamber, Upol, and other products that either you or Steve from the restoration event display team have recommended, but the brand names of quality thinners escaped me. So now I will get some branded hi-gloss thinners... is anti-bloom a similar thing?
As always, thanks for your time and letting me bug you.
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Last Edit: Mar 10, 2019 21:59:39 GMT by Badwolf
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I still haven't remembered to look up the make of the thinners I used, but it was strange that I didn't seem to get any worse finish when I stopped using the "high gloss" stuff and switched to the cheaper. Perhaps the finish or technique was sufficiently poor that no amount of good-brand thinners would have helped.
Since my earlier posts I have repainted three of the alloy wheels from my daily driver, with what I think of as reasonable results. I'm using different paint (ICI base, single pack RTU lacquer) but have turned the pressure down to 25PSI and the final finish is good. I recently painted a wing using those same products (albeit a slightly different silver) and got some orange peel, so it looks as if the lower pressure helps, so thanks again for the suggestion.
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Mar 12, 2019 16:02:45 GMT
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Plan for my "next year's project" is to strip the body back to steel, epoxy prime & top coat with cellulose, do I need a primer filler between the epoxy & the cellulose? I do not want to use isocyanate products.
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Mar 12, 2019 16:27:52 GMT
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I don't intend this to be a loaded question but what grade of paper should I be using for each primer and top coat?
So far I've done 240 and will go to 320 when that done on my epoxy primer.
That'll get another light coat as some of the edges etc have gone to metal.
I'll go on with high build straight after 2 maybe 3 light coats and then 400.
If imagine high build needs 600 afterwards then it's colour?
I've tried to research this and it's conflicting. Granted there's no hard or fast rule but looking at the small patch of 400 I've done on the inner wings I'm getting a natural shine already and it's hard to see any scratches but what I want to avoid is my paint not adhering but ant the same time look like it's been washed with a brill pad!
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1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
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Mar 12, 2019 17:13:58 GMT
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I don't intend this to be a loaded question but what grade of paper should I be using for each primer and top coat? So far I've done 240 and will go to 320 when that done on my epoxy primer. That'll get another light coat as some of the edges etc have gone to metal. I'll go on with high build straight after 2 maybe 3 light coats and then 400. If imagine high build needs 600 afterwards then it's colour? I've tried to research this and it's conflicting. Granted there's no hard or fast rule but looking at the small patch of 400 I've done on the inner wings I'm getting a natural shine already and it's hard to see any scratches but what I want to avoid is my paint not adhering but ant the same time look like it's been washed with a brill pad! Jim - What top coat are you using - single pack or 2 pack acrylic, cellulose ?
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Mar 12, 2019 17:57:17 GMT
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Hi Chris I was hoping to use non isocynate 2k. It'll be flat ermine white with black for the dash and door cappings
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1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
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Mar 12, 2019 19:22:13 GMT
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Hi Chris I was hoping to use non isocynate 2k. It'll be flat ermine white with black for the dash and door cappings Jim - If you are using a 2 pack acrylic - 400's will be fine (in fact the trade tend to use 320's on a DA sander) but if you stick to 400's with a guide coat over the hi build you should be fine and it will prevent you from rubbing through on the edges
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Mar 12, 2019 19:33:37 GMT
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Plan for my "next year's project" is to strip the body back to steel, epoxy prime & top coat with cellulose, do I need a primer filler between the epoxy & the cellulose? I do not want to use isocyanate products. All depends on how good your preparation & bodywork is but I would highly recommend your suggested route if you want achieve reasonably good results - However, I would also caution the use of epoxy primers regardless of it being a isocyanate free specification - epoxy primers has good as what they are involve a 2 pack process - primer + hardener and without the use of the correct PPE along with the correct facilities can be highly harmful to your health
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Last Edit: Mar 12, 2019 19:34:10 GMT by Deleted
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Mar 12, 2019 19:45:04 GMT
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Thanks GN, I appreciate that isocyanate is not the only safety issue, epoxy can be applied by roller with appropriate PPE, if I did decide that I needed a high build on top of the epoxy what are the non isocyanate options?
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