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Dec 21, 2015 14:48:49 GMT
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It's time to start a restoration thread on my recently acquired MGA Roadster. After trying to decide what project car to buy after a long time looking I'd finally narrowed it down to a TR3 or MGA. Both beyond my budget in anything more than rust bucket condition. However, after looking for a while (in this country, Holland and the USA) I settled on this one. An import from Texas and sold by one of the MG specialists in the UK. Probably could have got a cheaper one from the USA but I've run out of holiday and was worried if I went over for a week I'd be under a lot of pressure to come back with something and that might cloud my judgement. The body and chassis seem to be very straight and solid so hoping to avoid any major work there (although I'm sure there'll be some rust somewhere!). Paintwork has a lovely patina and I hope to retain this for the first phase of restoration. The car is mostly complete so hopefully will avoid having to spend loads of money on parts in the short-term. The engine(s) are more of a mystery though as the MGA engine has a suspected cracked block. I do have an MGB 3-bearing engine though which is apparently a straight swap. Haven't decided which route to go down yet. The MGB engines don't really have an effect on value as the swap is non-destructive and you can build the engine up with all the MGA ancillaries... Struggling with shared images from OneDrive - any tips?!   |
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Last Edit: Dec 22, 2015 12:22:00 GMT by catlotion
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Onne
Part of things
Posts: 822
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Dec 21, 2015 14:51:34 GMT
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Welcome! Sounds like a great project
Easiest way for pictures is to use a host like Photobucket
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1990 Mercedes W126 300SE
1997 Mercedes W140 S320L
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Dec 21, 2015 18:15:35 GMT
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Great car,great patina,the MGA has such classic lines.
I would be so tempted to run it with that paint !
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Dec 21, 2015 18:17:11 GMT
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thats beautiful
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fer4l
Posted a lot
Testing
Posts: 1,497
Club RR Member Number: 73
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1959 MGA Roadster Restorationfer4l
@fer4l
Club Retro Rides Member 73
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Dec 21, 2015 18:39:42 GMT
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+1 for leaving the body as it is - she's a beauty! Cheers  Matt |
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Dec 21, 2015 23:05:27 GMT
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I concur...the patina on that car is quite nice...
congrats...nice project
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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stevek
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 728
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Dec 21, 2015 23:08:01 GMT
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Yay you got a thread up, Can I add some pictures of the smaller details... Delivered to Leeds in the pouring rain, It's not in Texas now!..  Nice MGA details...  Patina anyone...  |
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stevek
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 728
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Dec 21, 2015 23:16:17 GMT
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Toby likes some junk in the trunk, especially that starter motor...  |
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stevek
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 728
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Dec 21, 2015 23:30:08 GMT
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What a cool cockpit! And that's the spare MGB 1800 engine.   First impressions are that this is a cracking little car. It seems amazingly solid in all the right places. I can't wait to have a ride in it, get it on the road quick sharp. -Steve- |
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fer4l
Posted a lot
Testing
Posts: 1,497
Club RR Member Number: 73
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1959 MGA Roadster Restorationfer4l
@fer4l
Club Retro Rides Member 73
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Dec 21, 2015 23:36:16 GMT
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What a cool cockpit! And that's the spare MGB 1800 engine. Don't show it to Claymore, he'll get you running them both LOL! [quote First impressions are that this is a cracking little car. It seems amazingly solid in all the right places. I can't wait to have a ride in it, get it on the road quick sharp. -Steve-[/quote] Tis truly a beautiful wee beast |
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Last Edit: Dec 22, 2015 13:51:38 GMT by fer4l
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Dec 22, 2015 13:04:14 GMT
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Pax floor's sound then Treat the old girl with some respect and give her a decent paint job ! |
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Dec 22, 2015 16:26:24 GMT
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thanks for all the comments everyone. I'll get some more updates up soon.
Passenger floor is pretty sound, but going to rip it out anyway (sorry Steve)- MGAs have plywood floors and the two main sections are a bit rotten. I'm concerned the soggy wood is going to encourage rust on the chassis rail supports (a problem area on these).
The big question is how to maintain the patina without the rust becoming more than surface... it would be a shame after all those years in the desert. I've read good things about Gibbs brand spray so have been wiping that over some of the rusty surfaces. Might just keep doing that until I can afford a paint job (years off!)
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sb
Part of things
Posts: 725 
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Dec 22, 2015 17:39:30 GMT
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If you want to keep the patina Ive been told boat lacquer is good to keep rust visible but not allow it to progress.
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fer4l
Posted a lot
Testing
Posts: 1,497
Club RR Member Number: 73
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1959 MGA Roadster Restorationfer4l
@fer4l
Club Retro Rides Member 73
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Dec 22, 2015 18:08:19 GMT
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What I did with Amy was to get her fully dry then a good (manual) going over with rubbing compound, then T-Cut, then a reasonable 'sealing' type of polish (think I used Mer) then finished off with a liberal dose of old fashioned wax rubbed in well, left to go off for a few days, then buffed off reasonably gently to a shine
18 months on and plenty of use in all weathers later she still looks great, and there's no sign of surface rust re-oxidising - I will probably wax her again (oo-er!) next year, but once every 2.5 years is no real hardship!
Personally I took the view that lacquer would be so akin to painting her that if it had to be one or the other, I'd prefer to paint her, but what I ended up doing was to me the perfect compromise - retaining the patina (which is so much a part of a car's story and history) while preserving her current condition intact
Cheers
Matt
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Dec 22, 2015 21:47:05 GMT
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Cant beat an old MG espcially an A. Are you keeping it LHD or converting it. I would keep the paint as it is to get it on thr road but would definitely want it painted as soon as I could. Looking forward to this. Hope you've got the flat cap and string back dribing gloves on order for Christmas.
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Thanks for the tips everyone. I was just mulling this over on the way to work this morning. I was wondering whether to brush on some diluted phosphoric acid before washing off, then waxing or something. I didn't really want to paint until I'm ready to do it properly as it will just add to the preparation time. Matt - your approach is appealing. Did try a bit of t-cut on the rear wing the other night and looks great.
There are one or two bits I'd like to paint though - in the engine bay, the heater shelf/bulkhead has quite heavy surface rusting and I was thinking of phosphoric acid followed by an epoxy primer. Ideally a black one, but not sure which. I've heard good things about Epoxy 421 but it's only available in grey or red...
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Dec 23, 2015 15:54:54 GMT
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sorry Peter, missed your question - thinking of keeping it LHD for now. An original RHD steering rack did come up on Ebay recently which was tempting (the new ones are duff apparently), but got LOTS of things to buy first!
reckon I can cope with LHD for a bit. It fits with the heritage of the car too...
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Jan 12, 2016 17:04:54 GMT
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A few updates. Got the MGB engine on the stand now and will start tearing it down soon. Head is off and cylinders looked ok initially (bit of surface rust) but on closer inspection one has quite a ridge near the top. I'll reserve judgement until I get stuck into it. The plan is to try to get something running asap on a budget, although open to re-bore/sleeve if required. Does anyone know a good machinist near Leeds please? I've been applying diluted phosphoric acid to the rust that looks like it might deteriorate, although I'm trying to maintain the patina wherever possible. There are some bits in the engine bay that will get primer though (epoxy I think). You can see a treated patch on the left rear wing in the photo below. I've since done the boot surface rust too. had to purchase a new rear light lens too as it was bugging me... ;-)  |
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Last Edit: Apr 14, 2016 15:50:15 GMT by catlotion
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Jan 12, 2016 21:13:44 GMT
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Liking this a lot - especially the patina! My uncle has an immaculate '59 1600 Mk1 (in Dove Grey) should any reference pics be of any use, especially regarding the engine bay or interior? Also, if it is any help, the spare wheel cover from inside the boot (as opposed to the bootlid mounted type) from a Rover P6 is an excellent and appropriate looking replacement for the MGA one - whilst the forward part of your cover is intact, there is supposed to be an integral cover for the rest of the wheel.
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Jan 14, 2016 11:16:29 GMT
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cheers Paul. you own both of the cars I was tempted by!
reference pics would be very handy thanks. It's mostly original but one or two things have been 'tweaked' over the years. Most annoying one being the master cylinder replacement with an MGB one. I've got the proper pedal box though. I'm still not sure whether to try and rebuild the existing carbs or go for refurbished replacements. I seem to have a few linkages missing on mine so photos of that would be useful.
good tip on the wheel cover. I did have the other bit but it was in tatters so I've binned it along with the carpets. tbh I might not bother with a spare and go for Tyre Weld option! Or mount it on a rack to free up boot space... Those decisions are a long way off though.
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