Do I change or stick with the Stag Wheels?

I was thinking them too (and oddly enough the Australian Performance Challenger wheels in 15" (they look remarkably similar to ATS Classics)) are in quite a bit of demand with Stag owners:

i ll just leave this here

How about a nice set of Cobra (Halibrand) rims



My old one had 15 inch replicas on it, I reckon they'd look pretty sweet

Those are basketless wire baskets like I have on the Hillman.

I've got a set of these in OK condition that would be cheap Chrome rim/ally centre made by Dunlop and used on MGB V8s and Scimitars too I think.

The regular Stag wheels are one of the few factory fitment alloys from that era that look spot-on imho. If you're going for Minilites, then the darker centres look much better than all silver. Cosmics were available in 15", but I think most were 5 stud - have a look though the listings on this page to see what was available:

www.cosmic-wheels.com/page.php?2

(open each image in a new window, and remove '_small' from the urls to read them properly).

How about TR6 steelies?, They should look good given the amount of dish they've got.

Those basketless wire wheels look the business! What a look. I was wondering what wheels your car had Seth. I shall let you know although I am not a massive fan of the V8 wheels. Maybe they could work...

Vitesseefi, I have got closer to the source I think. The rear tyres being almost 5-9 years old do not help matters too much (hence me looking for another set of tyres and or rims), nor do the gearbox flange and diff flange angles being difference (you can see the difference when the car is on a ramp). When I took the car to a specialist (where I got the roof from) to check it out he was as stumped as me regarding the problem).

With that issue I shall have to try and prop the rear of the box up slightly to only allow for a 2 degree difference tops between the flanges. I am just hoping that I can (before I start looking at CV jointed props as I understand the modern conversions come with) (or significant modifications to the gearbox tunnel (but then will the engine sit right under the bonnet?)).

In addition I reckon there is a good chance my diff is shot (in reverse (bar the clonking when it goes from drive to reverse once warm) it also seem to bind a little when going back (not quite like a welded diff feels mind you)). It does not help that it leaks oil and has probably washed the quill shaft bearing out of grease (which can also cause a vibration I understand).

It pains me to say it but once I have dealt with the flanges issue I will most likely end up dropping down the rear subframe to check things out .

A crying shame really as the 'box really does make the experience nicer than a BW 35 autobox (if only it didn't vibrate the living daylights out of the car at 50mph!)!

I'd love to see a better picture of those basketless jobbies.

So if the Stag is 4 x 114.3 PCD the early Volvo S40/V40 had the option of some nice 16" BBS Crater alloys, though the offset is in the region of 35mm from what I can see.





MGB and Scimitars had Dunlop Composites in 14". The ones from Scimitars had a much deeper offset if that's your thing, and if they fit. The Scimitar ones can be found for next to nothing secondhand as nobody really wants them.


Properly painted and polished they could lok the biz.

I'd always wondered too. I think now the secret's out they could become more prolific Seth!

I vote the OE wheels - always one of my faves and the wheel I would use to mod a 2000 or Dolly. Failing that, those Aussie wheels run the OE wheels close.