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Jan 26, 2018 11:04:17 GMT
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Jan 25, 2018 22:32:03 GMT
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It all looks great - best of luck tomorrow and beyond !
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So ... swop over bonnet for shows and sunny days ? 1. choose a hatchback / estate / van with a boot big enough to fit a spare bonnet in (or get a saloon with a roof rack) 2. Get a spare bonnet and "Mad Max" it anyway you like 3. Drive to shows etc with the "Mad Max" bonnet in the boot, swap bonnets at the gate and drive onto the show field
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Jan 23, 2018 22:23:35 GMT
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I've been involved in a few take-down / rebuild projects For info I dismantled the concrete workshop below in 2 short days (ie a full days work) myself using an angle grinder and an SDS drill / chisel. A mate helped load the pieces into the hired skip. We left the concrete base as it was needed for the new project. This was a steel roof, 3x sectional concrete walls + 1 breezeblock wall with sliding doors. Roof and doors came out on day 1, walls came down on day2. It's hard physical work but not complicated if you're sensible, it might save you some cash (the large skip cost us £240 for the week) forum.retro-rides.org/thread/192268/sectional-concrete-mancave-garage-north
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Jan 23, 2018 20:34:54 GMT
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Jan 23, 2018 20:24:49 GMT
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^ WHS ( I'd click "like" in other circumstances but it feels wrong in this case) The Capri looks nice tho' (the colour wouldn't be my first choice...)
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Jan 23, 2018 20:15:22 GMT
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Jan 23, 2018 12:36:25 GMT
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I put up a 12ft x 20ft sectional garage and fitted a "black tarpaper" corrugated roof. The thicker roof helped condensation but it still dripped - I think the only way to prevent it is to insulate the roof. The gaps between the concrete panels helped ventilation so I didn't seal them, worked fine but makes it impossible to heat. The roof was "sloped flat", the door end was about 6 inches higher than the other end, a very slight slope but plenty to let the water run off. An 8 inch wide soffit around the roof hid the slope. A simple gutter at the back sorted drainage. Security thoughts - concrete is "safe", a neighbour had a hole cut in his back fence and through the back wall of his wooden shed ! other ideas & info forum.retro-rides.org/thread/189690/first-house-garage-cave-build?page=5&scrollTo=2381209
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^ Weird things are a-foot The MkX photos don't show for me - but if I right-click and "open in new window" they are fine. Is it just me / my pc ?
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Hello and welcome That looks like a lot of fun. Great photos and write-up, many thanks for letting us know what happens in Russia !
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Jan 21, 2018 22:47:22 GMT
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I'm not saying "Don't do it" but things to consider : moving parts / sharp edges / bits sticking out (think of the nuns, children, pedestrians etc...) expect to get lots of attention (not all of it good) from police etc. will it upset your insurers? Pics when done please
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A fun toy that I used as a daily for several years before it became a weekend toy. I eventually decided to sell it as I was moving house and didn't have storage, got messed around for a couple of months by a buyer who *really* wanted it, after he loaded it onto the truck he mentioned he was a trader - but this was going to be his personal ride. Yeah right
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Jan 20, 2018 18:31:02 GMT
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As the Garage belongs to next door I’m going to ask about fixing the roof to there soffit?? Wooden side bit the build up a little off my fence although it’s no the strongest so may need to re think the posts? Ask next door before you fix anything to their garage, and make sure the timber is solid and well fixed (I've seen soffits that look ok but are loose or rotten !) Some good advice on the last page here forum.retro-rides.org/thread/189690/first-house-garage-cave-build?page=5&scrollTo=2381209
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Once again, I thank you all for the education ( esp varelse ), mental images (the usual suspects ! ), and the entertainment. I'll end there before I say something that might get taken the wrong way sweetpea - PM me if you need any help with your research
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I'm in OP - strange that I got the same ones as you, and was stuck on the same ones you missed... "K" gave me a Renault vibe, Alpine GTA / A310 came to mind but wan't quite right (I'm glad Littlepixel put me out of my misery with Renault 15 / 17 )
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It sounds like the charging system is working now - good news. Before changing the battery I'd check the voltage when you park up after a long run, and check it again (next day?) before you start the car. If it's got power to start the car after several days - I'd not bother changing the battery See the latest few pages of my Hunter build thread for oil pressure info (common Rootes problems are worn oil pump, pressure relief valve, worn bearings, sender unit. I also have a small leak from the rocker shaft joint) A cheap pressure gauge helps you see what's actually happening
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Jan 15, 2018 21:39:26 GMT
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I had similar with a RWD Nissan 200 many years ago, the engine was good but the autobox died so I converted the car to a manual. DVLA weren't interested but my insurers wanted an engineers report as the vehicle was now "heavily modified" - my argument was that it was the same car & engine, with a different factory box but they didn't see it that way (I changed insurers before I insured it...)
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stealthstylz might be able to suggest somewhere? ( he's Yorkshire based with an engineering background )
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My Hunter was converted to alternator before I got it, the ign light stays on until I get the revs up (20mph ?) then it stays off for the rest of the journey. To check the system is charging connect a cheap multimeter inside the car (to the cigarette lighter ?). Expect below 11 volts if parked overnight - rising to over 13 volts when on a longer drive
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