sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Gathering picssowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Aug 19, 2019 17:53:02 GMT
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Great pics, looked like a great day. One thing stood out to me. That 'tina estate. more plz. We were camping with the owner of the Cortina as part of the Midlands stand group. MrSpeedy knows the owner better than me and may be able to pry some more info? Or look in FB-land and search Thor-Tina Crusader
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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I went on Youtube to see if I could find a little bit more about them and what to expect, and glad mine came with no functioning exhaust as yeah, they come out the front and are loud!
The transaxle will be coming off sometime so I can sort out the oil leak, fix reverse and get the brake working. That can wait for now. Just perplexed why I have an oil leak from one of the axles yet they're meant to be filled with semi fluid grease, unless somebody has been in it before and oiled it up?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 15, 2019 19:41:22 GMT
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How did the exhaust work in the end? I could do with something similar on mine! Seems good and smooth compared to some others I've heard which run really harshly. Not obscenely loud to annoy people which was the plan. I had a little test drive today and it's got some poke and has some torque, although a little light on traction trying to drive up the ramps into the back of my pickup!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 15, 2019 17:50:42 GMT
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They're different, and through the years and spec changes with different sized bearings the front covers were machined differently. You need to provide the type and suffix number of the LT77 to determine what front cover you need. 4x4's also tended to have the release arm pivot boss in a different place too.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 15, 2019 17:15:28 GMT
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Looks like a lifetimes supply of bolt antiseize there!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 14, 2019 20:26:21 GMT
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I've been running an LT77 behind my OM606 with 6mm elements, boost wound up and governor fiddled with and it's still going fine in my Land Rover. It's done thousands more miles than the internet told me it would with no more unusual noises than normal.
If you didn't know already Ashcroft Transmissions do (or at least used to) a selectable 4wd conversion for the LT230
Interesting that you had issues with the Sprinter flywheel not dropping all the way onto the crankshaft. I bought a Sprinter single mass kit a while back and it's bolted onto one of my spare engines waiting for me to find time to build a stubby R380 and make an adapter for it. The only trouble I had fitting it was the single mass flywheel not clearing the crankshaft sensor. I'll have another look to make sure it hasn't bottomed out on the crankshaft spigot but I seem to remember it pulling down flat on the crankshaft flange?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 14, 2019 17:28:25 GMT
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Attempted a test drive earlier in the week and it was dying everytime I put it in gear, not helped by fuel pouring out of the carb float chamber body! So off with the carb and pull it apart Hmm, obviously still some water in the fuel tank then! All wiped down and ready to go back together, found a tiny bit of dirt on the float needle so I'm hoping that was the cause of the carb flooding? Stuck it all back together, set the carb up 1.5 turns on both mixture screws and started it up. Fixed! I can stick it in gear and the engine doesn't die anymore, and I've found all 5 forward gears provide forward motion! Reverse either isn't engaging or is broken, and there is some transmission braking effect when the clutch/brake is pushed all the way. The brake caliper on the side of the transaxle is completely seized solid and already has one snapped bolt so I wasn't expecting there to be any brakes whatsoever
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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That's the exhaust finished 1" tube from the engine (bit small but cheap), with a custom made muffler comprising of parallel tubes with holes driled down their entire length inside and perforated tube pressed over the outside of the parallel tubes and packed with glassfibre insulation before being welded shut Should make the volume bearable in the campsite. Might add a cutout with blanking plate up by the engine? Next up is working out how to mount a car battery in the little tractor, then there's no excuses not to set the carb up and go for a test drive
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Good luck with making this machine an animal, are you gonna paint it or leave the patina as is?? All I will say is it's almost unrecognisable now The external build/mods are almost all complete, though I'm still to set the engine up and give it a test drive, maybe even fix the brakes?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Put a smaller pulley on the engine for a bit more speed or a bigger one for more pulling power. I’ve got 4 mowers similar to this one, haven’t got any of them finished yet. Other way round, larger engine pulley for speed, and can't really go any smaller as there won't be enough contact area on the belt. Before I do any of that I need to drive it about a bit, sort the slack steering, and I have other ideas which would make engine pulley swaps irrelevant
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Not sure if you are aware but if the deck is in one piece and turns then keep it / sell it. Its often the deck that gets trashed and makes a lawnmower uneconomic to repair and a lot of the decks are common across brands. Nice idea, with low gearing you can tow a car with these quite happily ! James Just had a look at it, it's rotten, and the repairs are also rotten and in holes. There's still a mess of big hand sized chunks of rust scattered about where I unloaded it from the Land Rover and dragged the cutting deck away! I was tempted to keep it, but have since cut the deck drive off the engine output shaft so it's not going to see any use with me now. The extra pulleys could come in handy as I have numerous ideas for the little tractor, but those can wait for next year after I've had some fun with it this year.....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Speed is not one of the goals, though any free power to be had is a bonus!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Just snapped the Conrod on one of these engines, might have something to do with the fact that we took the standard throttle linkage off and ran it direct, they rev like curse word, it has been used for nearly 20 years though! I've heard of rods breaking from over-revving, and keys shearing on the flywheels (probably due to abrupt stopping), but otherwise apparently they go on forever! Having never worked on one of these small flathead engines I don't know what the do's and don't's are, and what the usual mods are for making them into fun playthings? So keeping the built in rev limiter on the governor is a good idea unless I want to risk over-revving it?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Since my plan A for RRG campsite transport has proven too ambitious, I've gone for plan B, buy something complete ready built but doesn't work! It's a Simplicity 4212, roughly 1987-89 vintage with a Briggs & Stratton 12HP flathead engine. Should do for what I have in mind! All unnecessary junk removed And what is believed to be the cause of the non-running, a stuck inlet valve So out with the engine to give it a quick checkover and free the valves Now the engine is back in, carb cleaned and fresh fuel in the tank I've got it running. Needs the carb adjusting but can't do that until I've made the exhaust up for it, it's really loud on the open pipe! I haven't got round to seeing if it drives yet, and the brake doesn't work at all, it just rolls whatever you do! I want to convert it to foot controlled throttle, and only use the hand throttle for the choke. It has a governor on the side of the engine, should I retain the governor or just attach the throttle cable directly to the carb throttle arm? I know nothing about these little engines, and watched a few Youtube vids of modified ride-on tractors so have some things in mind. Porting the engine and skimming the head for extra compression are high on the list of ideas, are these good ideas to make this thing more scary to drive?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Looking to do the same to our swb stationwagon Ive used the dodo foam in my T5 camper conversion and its been great. However my transporter roof isn't quite as leaky or oven like on warmer days My poor dad uses our series 3 for work and gets dripped on in the winter and slow cooked in the summer! So I'm think dodo foam the lot (Cab and into the rear) and then some 4 way stretch carpet we have left over from the camper conversion. In hindsight would you do the same to your cab? I plan to eventually line the interior with vinyl/carpet etc, got a few water leaks that still need sorting and the bulkhead is still awaiting it's rebuild too. When I get round to it I'll do the roof and most of the interior of my 88" hard top too. I think I've only had the cabin unbearably hot once, and that was when I was at Billing and it was parked in the sun all day. It was tempting to go back into the showground and buy one of the truck cab tops I'd spotted and make a safari truck cab!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jul 25, 2019 14:16:22 GMT
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Are there any rules, guidelines, or "do not's" for this? I have some 'stuff' which if put together could provide transportation with varying levels of potential epic and fail.... No rules but we reserve the right to say no to someone who puts a saddle on an exocer missile with pram wheels and rope for steering and thinks that it would be OK to lauch it up the hill The idea would be different and slow (ish) and something that encompasses the spirit of RR (wheels and a tap with the stick) If you want to run something past me by all means ping me an email on track@retro-rides.org Once I start figuring things out I'll fire off an e-mail to you
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jul 24, 2019 16:51:45 GMT
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Are there any rules, guidelines, or "do not's" for this?
I have some 'stuff' which if put together could provide transportation with varying levels of potential epic and fail....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jul 15, 2019 20:36:00 GMT
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Exactly. My tdi is about 110 bhp, nearly double the original diesel’s output. It’s enough, but more power sometimes would be nice. 😃 Book figure for my OM606 is 175bhp, no idea what it's actually doing since I made a hybrid mechanical pump using parts of the original edc pump and twiddled the governor a bit! 88" has gross vehicle weight of 2 tonnes, that means the brakes have to be good enough to stop 2 tonnes, but it only weighs 1.4 tonnes unladen. if the brakes are scary in an unladen 88", then its time for maintenance ! ^This over and over again. Every Land Rover I've had or driven has had the brakes sorted so they'll lock the wheels and stop straight, either the fronts or the rears depending on spec and weight. Standard 10" drums on an 88" should be pretty sharp, and with a servo have the potential to put your face in the windscreen....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jul 15, 2019 17:10:19 GMT
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Think this is just deserts for anybody wanting to go over 50 in a leafer ! Mad I say, mad... Carry on. James Once all sorted 50 is just a breeze! It's happy at 70, though it's obvious that the sleek aerodynamics of the Land Rover are just beginning to hinder further progress! I second that! We have an 80s Series 3 swb with a Perkins Prima conversion and 50mph is scary! Engine, gearbox, overdrive, axles all screaming away gives me that feeling of impending doom! That's ignoring they steering being all over the shop, view of the road through holes in the floor and the thought of the stopping distance from 50?! You're a braver man than me Get the brakes and steering sorted, make sure all of the doors are adjusted properly and seals intact, add some sound insulation in specific places and there's no reason why it shouldn't cruise at the national speed limit safely and without too much discomfort. I have the added bonus of a modern refined powerplant which kicks out at least twice the power and a lot less cabin noise which helps immensely. Back in the day Land Rover themselves were doing high speed tests with the swb on the motorways, can't remember if they were cruising at 90 or 100? Provided you attack the whole thing, and make sure gearing, tyre choice, brakes etc. are all as they need to be, there’s no issue going fast in a leaf-sprung Land-Rover. My 200 Tdi won’t crack the magic ton, but it’s rock solid flat out at 96 on the GPS, although noise levels aren’t what you’d call comfortable. It’ll sit all day at a fairly relaxed 75 though, and I’ve done 1200+ miles in a weekend more than once. My top speed is limited by other road users Vintage cars on narrow wheels and cart springs which is on paper what a Land Rover is were doing over the ton decades before anyway!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jul 14, 2019 22:24:56 GMT
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I’m convinced. Suggest you repeat your test on the new ones so you can send them straight back if they are just as bad! But no doubt you’ve already thought of that...... Nick Oh definitely the new ones are going straight on the 'test rig, and so are any others I have spare in the interests of research! When I put the first on I didn't believe it was that bad and double checked it really was down tight on the hub. It was just so absurdly out I had to get it on video! And to think it's both drums and I believe they are original factory fit Land Rover items..... Explains perfectly how the vibration has been coming and going between 50 and 70 as I drive round corners and the drums go in and out of sync with eachother.
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