sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Dec 23, 2019 10:39:13 GMT
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Dec 23, 2019 10:31:55 GMT
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Rover 75 MG ZT sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Only issue I had directly on my diesel was the O-ring inside the end of the injector pump failing (bought a secondhand injector pump and swapped it over) then after many more thousands of miles noticed a slight hunting so swapped the injector pump itself and that cured the fault. Previous owners had run the fuel down to the light and since the 75 has a saddle fuel tank they can draw air and lift pump failures are common (replaced the intank pump once and under bonnet boost pump twice). I guess fuel starvation damaged the hp pump causing it's early demise. Otherwise, just oil and filter changes.
As with most other diesels of the same era they had issues with the egr clogging up the intake and I blanked mine off, and there's also the issue with the maf that can easily go bad, which I simply unplugged and have had no issues since. I now have a Freelander with the same engine and have also unplugged the maf on that. Contrary to what some have claimed, both my 75 and the Freelander run perfectly with the maf disconnected over tens of thousands of miles.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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If that's an OM603, an OM606 turbo should swap over relatively easily being fundamentally the same engine but with a twincam head. Downside is scenetax has taken hold of those engines and the cost of getting them running outside the original donor vehicles can be very high. Also depends if you want to stick with the Mercedes diesel, any diesel or go petrol? Nice P4, does look good with the Jensen alloys and patina
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Rover 75 MG ZT sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Used to have a 75 dizzle estate in old man blue. Remapped and lowered, span the wheels everywhere and upset so many people off the lights and round the twisty's! Also a dead comfy cruiser, probably racked up about 80k miles over the years I had it? Went to the big scrappy in the sky earlier this year since the electrics all gave up in the dash. I'd have another, but with a working dashboard! Seen on the FB group about remapping but how tricky are they to lower? Is it just a spring chop? Can't be chopped, though the front springs in cold weather do have a habit of self lowering and there was a recall to fit a 'spring protector' around the bottom of the coil on the base of the strut seat to stop the spring puncturing the tyre when it does go. Buy a set of ZT springs and swap them over, or if there's a set of -50 or more springs available sling them in underneath. I had almost every fault under the sun on mine, but parts availability was excellent at the time and forum knowledge unbelievably good so that I could pinpoint exactly what needed doing and get it done with minimal downtime. Build quality was good on mine, couldn't fault any of the fit and finish. Only things that let it down was the previous owner not looking after it and the usual backstreet crash repairs, then ultimately the electrical niggles started, but it still drove fine and went for another 4 years without the dashboard functioning as originally intended!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Rover 75 MG ZT sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Used to have a 75 dizzle estate in old man blue. Remapped and lowered, span the wheels everywhere and upset so many people off the lights and round the twisty's! Also a dead comfy cruiser, probably racked up about 80k miles over the years I had it? Went to the big scrappy in the sky earlier this year since the electrics all gave up in the dash. I'd have another, but with a working dashboard!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Nov 29, 2019 18:43:54 GMT
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Get my little V8 Landy back on the road Also need to clear out and re-organise the garage, then I'll have room to roll my SD1 inside to get going on that resto sometime next year if all goes to plan...
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Nov 23, 2019 17:50:20 GMT
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Nov 23, 2019 11:00:03 GMT
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Last Edit: Nov 23, 2019 11:04:39 GMT by sowen
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Nov 22, 2019 21:22:24 GMT
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I think it's time to drag this one back up from the depths and do a little updating! Last proper update was way back at the beginning of 2016, at the time I believe I was still tinkering with the spring over and OM606 conversion. The OM606 was pulled out back in 2017 to go in my 109", leaving the little 88" heartless. It didn't take long to come up with a new plan and crack on with making it live again.... There's my little 3.9 Rover V8, with a spare set of 10 bolt heads and mocking up a P38 timing cover And to go behind the V8 I've stripped a spare R380 gearbox and fitted a stumpy input shaft and bellhousing The heads were tidied up on a surface plate and fitted, the P38 crank pulley fitted with a 36-1 tooth trigger wheel and the 3.9 crankshaft keyway extended to take the longer P38 key to drive the oil pump A coilpack mount was made, and the engine dressed up with remote oil filter, manifolds, airflow meter, viscous fan, radiator etc.... In the meantime the old axles were refitted, I'd come to the conclusion that going spring-over was just too ambitious with the quantity of projects I have and I couldn't really justify the conversion anymore. This brings it up to the beginning of 2018, and I was quite heavily involved in working on the P6 and 109 so the little 88" was duly buried under junk yet again and left to gather dust.....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Nov 12, 2019 18:47:14 GMT
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Slightly breathed on 3.9 V8 fitted and running, and now I've just welded a climbing frame over the top! Bought an ARB air locker for the front axle, and am saving up for another ARB air locker for the rear Salisbury axle!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Nov 10, 2019 13:24:25 GMT
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Early 9000 lump? Either stash it away or part it out, should be plenty of good bits on that which could see some life again
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Extension Cables/Weldingsowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Oct 19, 2019 20:09:57 GMT
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Unwind it all the way as it'll get very hot where it's still coiled together.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Oct 18, 2019 17:18:38 GMT
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I enjoy this thread and admire both the competence and confidence you demonstrate. Question about that intake manifold: when viewed from underneath, it appears to have two intake runners for each cylinder. Is that right? Thanks, John Each valve has it's own 'port' where the manifold bolts down to, so I have 12 ports along the head. They diverge very close to the head in the inlet manifold. Most engines with 4 valves per cylinder I've seen have oval ports, the Mercedes just seems to have taken this to another level! Damn that's cool I was thinking about potentially using an OM605 with a Landy LT77/R380 in a future project (Baja MGB), but was wondering about towing with a clutch that can take the torque. Nice to see a high-rated single-plate clutch. Have you towed with yours before? Haven't gone back far enough through the thread yet! You can buy a bolt on adapter kit for the OM605/6 to R380 from a guy called Ollie North, he's on FB and is on the MercRover's group. Or go diy and fabricate everything yourself like I've done (there were no kits available when I started). Clutchfix do a higher rated pressure plate than will fit the Land Rover tdi flywheel (and rwd Rover V8) to match the 600lb/ft friction plate, rated to somewhere around 470lb/ft I think over the 414lb/ft HD pressure plate they normally supply (which I have for my other Rover). I've not towed with it, though you're more likely to have cooling issues under prolonged load. A V8 spec radiator on mine has so far been perfect throughout the summer, but with a few tons dragged behind, I'd be wanting something more than what I already have, maybe a 4 core rad?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Oct 16, 2019 17:56:39 GMT
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fantastic engine work to be fair the rover-type detroit diff makes it an unfair comparison, even that has much more girth (stronger) than a stock rover diff The standard Salisbury centre has more mass than the Rover Detroit! After weighing up the options and upgrades for the Rover axle on my 88", I've since swapped in a Salisbury to that too. That's now waiting on my finances to recover a bit after this recent spending splurge to buy a matching ARB air locker to that'll be running lockers front and rear, like the 109 will be running Truetracs front and rear. I should update my other Landy's build thread sometime. A lot has happened to it the last year, and there's more major upgrade work coming as the annual pre-winter maintenance on the commuter fleet is almost complete....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Car Advice - Strange Brief sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Oct 15, 2019 21:42:32 GMT
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I forgot the family used to have a Subaru Forester, nice car, and had a hi/lo lever too!
I managed to squeeze 40mpg out of it sitting at 60mph on the motorway doing the long daily commute for a few weeks.
Was even more impressed how it coped in the snow. Standard chunky road bias tyres (couldn't call them all terrains) pulled it up and down some steep slopes around some of the local lanes and twisty access tracks.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Oct 14, 2019 16:36:26 GMT
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Half your budget will be blown on wheels and tyres at least, more if you want useable offroadable tread!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Engine mounts painted black and ready to be fitted With the engine sat back in the garage waiting I've taken the inlet manifold and oil filter housing off, run them through the blast cabinet at work and put a few coats of epoxy primer on them With the previous saga of the broken glowplug being aborted and a plug screwed in over the top, I had access to remove the plug and have a second attempt at removing the remains. I had noticed a 'ticking' sound had appeared on the engine at idle on the drive down to RRG and was hoping it was the glowplug unseizing itself in the head and leaking. Luckily I was right and it literally hooked out with no effort! Next job waiting for the clutch was to make a new spigot bush to go in the flywheel. I bought a bar of phosphor bronze and set to work in the lathe.... Pressed the bush into the flywheel then bolted it on Had a go at another broken glowplug, this time leaving it to soak in Plusgas with the diy extractor left loaded up. I'm impressed, after one night it had softened the carbon buildup enough that it pulled out with little effort! Parcel arrived with the new 600lb/ft rated 9.5" clutch Clutch, inlet manifold and oil filter housing all bolted back on the engine ready to lift it back into the 109 Engine bolted back in on the new mounts And then it was the Newbury 4x4 jumble last weekend. I really wanted the 109 ready for that as it's a good tat hauler, with capacity for considerably more unnecessary junk than my Freelander, but it wasn't to be. But on a positive, the junk I did bring back fitted in the Freelander fine, and some key bits were acquired for the 109, the rest for my 88" Best buy (for the 109) was a front bias Detroit Truetrac, brand new! The ARB RD56 air locker next to it is for the front of my 88, unless I end up finding another bargain locker then there is the option of going that route on the 109 too? Both Detroit Truetracs sat beside eachother. Anyone wonder why Rover differentials are considered weak in comparison to Salisbury's? The size says it all! There is one small issue with the front Truetrac I've bought, and it's 24 spline. There was a 10 spline Truetrac at Newbury, but I'd already blown my budget and 10 spline shafts are weak. Whilst going round the jumble I've formulated a plan, and that is to lash up a jig to take standard Rover axle front shafts and cut the 10 spline inner ends off and weld 24 spline ends on. There's enough material on a series front inner shaft to weld the thicker 24 spline ends on and be able to weld a sleeve over the top and still remove the bearing retaining collars. I've got a few sets of spare front shafts and a few old 24 spline shafts that won't fit a series axle lying about too. The weak link will still be the u/j in the swivel housing, but they aren't that bad to replace, and if I keep enough tools and a spare set of shafts for offroading to strip and replace then the money saving for now is well worth it compared to the cost of custom shafts to fit CV joints etc with what I've already spent. And finally I've replaced the multiple silicone hoses beneath the inlet manifold with a single hard intake pipe made from stainless elbows. No risk of blowing hoses off underneath where they can't be reached to be put back on easily!
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Last Edit: Oct 13, 2019 9:36:02 GMT by sowen
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