sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 7, 2015 18:32:04 GMT
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Hi, could you utilise 2 or 3 pallet trucks? They usually have a 2 tonne lift and are of course have other uses around the hangar. Colin Not really, and I've tried Usual weapon of choice is a carefully selected wooden pallet with a set of castor wheels underneath, absolute back saver! Great for shifting almost anything and everything as long as it can be lifted on!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 6, 2015 21:09:01 GMT
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The Eaton M62 has finally been mounted on the engine ready for a test drive It runs and makes about 5psi just by blipping the throttle, the belt hasn't thrown itself off and there appear to be no air leaks after the throttle which I'm pleased with. There is however a serious issue, the intake temps are excessively high to the point where I'm not even going to take the P6 out for a test drive. I doubt it would go more than about 5 miles without melting a piston with the temperature where it is only after 3 minutes of idling. I now have a dilemma, so far it's not cost me much to make the supercharger setup as it is because I had most of the parts to hand. I've got a few options to consider, first choice is how to incorporate a chargecooler between the supercharger and the inlet manifold, and re-investigate the idle bypass systems as used on Mini's, Jaguar's with the Eaton superchargers. I have a complete idle bypass from a Jaguar XJR6 to hand. Also, do I continue with the supercharger after the throttle, or put it before? Lots to consider, and the next step looks like it's going to involve some serious money being spent.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Thought go-jack did aero ones; www.aerojack.co.uk/index.aspFrom what I looked into a bit back, there are mechanical ratchet types, and also hydraulic ones. No experience of which is better... Brian Frighteningly expensive and a lower load rating than the automotive ones, ok for a large company with a big budget... we use a pair of non hydraulic ones in the barn, and they are great things when space for manouvering is tight like these: could be a cheaper option, but jacking up an airplane isnt easy i guess Some are easier than others, even to the point of just picking them up . My idea is quick and easy operation, no more than a few minutes setting up and going.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 5, 2015 20:07:23 GMT
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Hi, A couple of years ago we had to recover a small executive jet from the taxiway at work and the punctured nose wheel strongly resembled a wheel barrow wheel and tyre, although I'm sure the tyre had a higher speed rating. Presumably the dolly,s would have adjustment for different size wheel combinations, so maybe they could be modified further to cater for that. My only thought is that the nose wheel would be best secured to the dolly otherwise the wheel could turn through right angles and drop through, but I'm sure you have considered that already. Other than that I don't see a problem. Colin I've scraped a few off runways and fields where wheels aren't even attached anymore, got the gear for those eventualities to hand . It's more of ease of moving inside, just on a larger scale than that of the average garage! It can take 3-4 hours to restack a hangar sometimes, and that time would be better spent working to earn money. What worries me is how durable the mechanism is to pull the sides together underneath the wheel, how long would they last in heavy use? The alternative is just to weld up some 4-5mm steel plate into a very shallow dolly and have a pair of locking castor wheels so that I only need to pull the plane onto the locked dolly, secure it in place and move it about for the price of some quality castor wheels a large plate of steel....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 5, 2015 16:14:17 GMT
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there are larger and heavier duty types, metal wheels and rollers, not sure how well they will cope with small wheels though. if theres a strong tall tyre, should be fine, most will give a minimum size I believe, as well as maximun, plus width. I'll have a look for the other variants, I visited another company a few days ago who are borrowing a pair with twin rollers either side, they don't do as much moving as what I want/need to do and rated them well for what little use they've had out of them. If it's your own aircraft then you can give them a go however if customers aircraft surely whoever covers you for liability might have something to say in the event of a claim if a "non approved device" was the cause. You can get proper aircraft quality / standard wheel dollies but they cost a lot more. I reckon the liability aspect is probably the reason why. You could apply the same logic to all lifting gear, engine hoists, towbars, jacks, trestles etc, in reality many companies working on light aircraft use a mixture of commercial and homemade ground equipment, and I've never seen an insurance assessor show any concern over those. Once the word 'aircraft' has been added to something, the price does usually jump up significantly, but the quality remains the same. My view is that if a tool can last for years with heavy abuse in a commercial or industrial environment then gentle use in my working environment should be adequate. I also thought it may be of interest to anyone else whose considered or not encountered these before to ask the question of are they any good and worth the money?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 5, 2015 11:22:58 GMT
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brilliant things, but you do need a very good floor surface. We've got a polished concrete floor so that's no issue, it's the durability of the things that I'm wondering about. The average wheel size that I'm dealing with is 6.00x6, from the dimensions I've found they're close to the fully closed position and will be acting further up the tyre than what I presume the dollies are intended to press against. If they are durable in a commercial/industrial environment then they should do the trick for my application
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 5, 2015 10:54:46 GMT
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Has anybody used or got a set of these? I'm looking at buying a set for work (light aircraft so similar weight per wheel to an average large car) and wondered what people thought of them who've got or used them? I saw some recently and thought it may save me a hell of a lot of time and aggro if they actually work well, or is it a lot of money for something that looks funky stored in the corner?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 4, 2015 22:00:39 GMT
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Looks like a fun project you've got You could stick a massive single turbo on the Lexus V8 and run the pipe straight through the bonnet like the Rotsun
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Saab B2X4 turbo enginessowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Sept 4, 2015 17:40:40 GMT
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I've got a 2001 9-5 aero I'm currently breaking with the 2.3 B235R engine in producing 250bhp as standard. Cracking engine, with no oil pressure issues. Still in the car, so can be driven/heard running. £250 buys the engine minus the turbo; £375 with the TD-04 HL15T turbo. Can stop it to a pallet and sort delivery out too if needed. Cheers Thanks for the offer but I'll decline, I really want the earlier B234 turbo lump because I'm led to believe the internals are far superior and should suit my plans of a budget high power build I had the B204L engine put in my Vectra for over 5 years now and they deserve all their cred and more imoa. The engine of choice is the B204 lump. The 2.3 has more torque but its a taller block ( I think ) so that put it out of the window for my conversion. The engines you want have the red DI. The engines are very very well built, although GM had hold of them and started cutting back on quality the engines seemed to be already spec'd so left alone. But the later B205 and 35 which came with black DI's weren't as good and the 2.3 suffer from oil gunking up. I did have plans for mine to get to 300bhp with a TD04 turbo, green giant injectors, 3 bar map, 3 inch downpipe and suitable map. In fact by going for the components I would have been able to push over 300 without issue, but I had to sell the bits before fitting them sadly. But yes with the right map, downpipe, turbo and injectors 400bhp on stock internals is doable. Mine as standard put out 150bhp, with a better FMIC, open air filter and stage one map it went to 180bhp and with loads more torque too. My plan is to drop the 2.3 into my Rover P6 which already has a DOHC 2ltr lump formerly on a Garrett T25 pushing somewhere near 200bhp. I don't want another 2.0, as the plan is everything I do is an upgrade so capacity is a primary consideration. Height is not an issue, I've already cut a few holes in the bonnet and am quite happy to cut more My goal is to hit 300bhp and beyond, preferably going compound charged to start with using an Eaton M62 supercharger and a truck turbo of unknown origin. These are only plans and are in the process of being tested on another engine before committing and making proper brackets, manifolds and plumbing etc.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Saab B2X4 turbo enginessowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Sept 2, 2015 21:50:12 GMT
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Just read that, thanks I like how most of the 'bad' points of the upgrades for big power will need to be addressed for a rwd conversion and my installation! So if the engine is as capable as people claim then maybe 400bhp would be readily achievable? from what i can gather the engine internals are of decent quality..mahle pistons and decent rods and crank..think 400 hp is at the very top end of whats safe on standard internals...the 20l engine is quite revy as the 2.3 is alot more taruqey..there are maps readily availible that can make huge changes to the tarque and power delivery...the 2.3 with the mitsubushi turbo will do 300 hp ish with a decent map...iv bought a 2.3 complete engine..with a standard flywheel,large sump.unlocked and mapped ecu.loom.oil cooler etc etc for £500 delivered..i looked for a while at different rwd power plant options and think these are the best ££ to bhp availible? ? I was looking at the Volvo 2.3 turbos first then found the Saab trumped them in specs and reputation. First choice is the 2.3 as the torqueyness suits my style better but I'd consider a 2.0 if it's cheap and local. Unfortunately I don't have the space to buy a car to break for the engine, so it's a slow and regular hunt for something suitable to pop up....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 31, 2015 19:11:33 GMT
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 31, 2015 18:59:38 GMT
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Just search for OM605, you'll probably want a mechanical pump of an earlier single cam OM602, or the Ssangyong Musso 2.9td which uses a suitable mechanical pump too. Downside of the mechanical pumps is that they flow less fuel as standard, but they can be modified by specialists to throw a lot of fuel into those Mercedes diesel engines
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 31, 2015 14:16:36 GMT
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I had the first type of seal and fitted them with the widest side going in and chamfer pointing out, the idea being that the pressure pushes out and the seal expands to seal better
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 31, 2015 14:11:42 GMT
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With regards to your oil seal/breather issue, I have been through this. You might already be using it but on the exhaust side of the block there is what looks like a fuel pump blanking plate probably from the blocks B series days, this is a good place to make a crankcase breather and as you already say an oil return from the catch tank to the sump. Hope this is of some help. Fascinating project Yep I'm using that one, part of the issue I believe was the hose had fallen off the other side under the inlet manifold and I'd been fiddling with the rocker cover breather to inlet manifold hose. The oil drain tube has been welded into the sump, just waiting on the ground to dry out a bit more before refitting the sump.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 31, 2015 13:25:33 GMT
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Thanks to the various people we viciously stole photos from. Feel free to correct us and we'll give credits... also who owns the S12? He was definately camping...... That's a start I think Diabolu has contact details of the owner?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 30, 2015 16:11:23 GMT
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There is just enough room to remove the top half of the inlet manifold and mount the supercharger directly to that I've measured the crank pulley at 140mm diameter, and have a choice of two suitable pulleys to adapt to the Eaton nose of 50mm and 63mm, giving pulley ratios of approx 2.75 and 2.2. Going by this the 50mm pulley would be more likely to overspeed the M62 and bake the air going in. Using rough generic calculations the Eaton M62 with a 63mm pulley should be able to produce 10-15psi which is right on the top side of what I want to hit with it
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 30, 2015 13:15:18 GMT
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Preaching to the choir mate , I would put the throttle in front of the charger and spray water / meth into the blower case to keep it cool . Blower bypass doesn't need to be very large this way and the bov just goes in the usual place . If you can find a way to open the bypass once it reached a couple of psi over the sc output you could let the turbo do the heavy lifting but as I said you need a mass air measure to deal with the transition from compound pressure to pure turbo which I couldn't do with the t5 trionic being speed density and the later t7 being maf based I went with a new fangled ball bearing blower . Never got bored of the noises it used to make though I don't believe there is any single perfect way of doing it, whatever happens will be a compromise. I could relocate the throttle body to the supercharger intake, or even go all the way and make a plenum replacing the top half of the inlet manifold trying to maintain equal-ish air distribution to all four cylinders possibly even keeping it below the bonnet line. This way would also be relatively easy to install in the present installation, but I'd have the intake charge pre-heated right at the manifold. Plus is that at small throttle openings it should be fairly quiet, then what all hell would break loose!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 30, 2015 12:39:38 GMT
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I enjoyed the time I spent building my system and it would take too long to go through all the issues but the fact is that the solution to lag etc it to buy a modern ball bearing turbo sized to suit what you want to achieve . The only advantage the twin charge had was a little more torque from 2500-3200 Part of what I want to do is see what rubbish and curse word can be successfully be thrown together on a budget to work. As long as it's fun to drive then I've achieved my goal Also, as you say the learning is fun and the knowledge and experience acquired can then be applied to a better engine and neater planned installation....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 30, 2015 11:47:41 GMT
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234 is the way to go , best oe management for a turbo ever made and fully open for mapping and data logging I've been doing a lot of reading up on the B234 and it seems to be the best inline 4 available that does not need money throwing at it with custom aftermarket parts. Just give it a refresh with new bearings, gaskets and seals and it should be good for more than what I'll want. Rwd conversion is easy as there are off the shelf bellhousings and also uses common clutch plate sizes. If your thinking about compound charging you need a mass air flow input so it knows the difference between pressure from supercharger and combined from both . My Megasquirt has a 38psi MAP sensor fitted, surely it wouldn't matter how the pressure gets to the inlet manifold/engine? Plan is to experiment and develop anyway, still need to work out how and where the idle bypass system will fit, maybe even incorporating a supercharger bypass too?
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