sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Apr 28, 2018 13:34:43 GMT
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Not done anything to the Land Rover, apart from drive it, it's just so good at it! Went to the Newbury 4x4 spares day, drove home loaded up with stuff hanging out of the back, but the only thing acquired for the 109 was a rusty old bullbar The only major issue I've noticed is the oil pressure dropping when hot at idle, and last weeks heatwave had it dropping even lower than normal. I'd bypassed the factory fitted oil cooler and not fitted an oil pressure light in the rush to get it built ready for RRG, so I think it's time to fix these and try to regain some hot oil pressure. The oil cooler relief valve has been taken off the block, cleaned up and painted, and is ready for some AN12 adapters to be made to plumb the oil cooler in. With my hands deep in the engine I've also fitted an oil pressure switch to the bottom of the filter housing on the last remaining spare port. Next I'll be waiting for the hose, 7" fan and thermo switch to control the fan to come through the post. I'm not sure where to fit the thermo switch yet, it's rated at 110-105°C, so maybe in the outlet from the cooler would be the best place to fit? Whilst I'm waiting for the oil cooler hose to arrive, I've just removed the seatbox so I can fit the new under seat battery box and get rid of the old bodged up crusty fuel tank. While I'm in there I'll add some more sound deadening to the tub bulkhead and have a look at how I'll remake the difflock and hi-lo transfer levers to suit how the gearbox has been pushed further back than usual?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Stick a turbo on the side, modify the SU carbs to blow through and be done with it in my opinion. I've researched supercharging in the past, bought some stuff to do it, but compared to fitting a turbo it's insanely involved and causes more issues than turbocharging would. Sounds like a good idea, any more info very welcome Just seen the above post, you were faster than me You'll need to make or buy a plenum to stop the forced induction blowing all of the fuel back down the jet and out of the fuel bowl, and fit a high pressure fuel system with a boost referencing regulator to keep the fuel pressure 3-4psi above boost pressure, as used on Metro turbos.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Stick a turbo on the side, modify the SU carbs to blow through and be done with it in my opinion. I've researched supercharging in the past, bought some stuff to do it, but compared to fitting a turbo it's insanely involved and causes more issues than turbocharging would. Just out of interest , can you convert the carb by just using the turbo seals ? Is it that easy ? I was running my old twincam 4 banger in my P6 on twin SU blow through with seals, needles, springs and floats from a turbo carb bought from Burlen fuel systems. Only difference that I know of to a genuine turbo SU was that they had O-rings fitted to seal the dashpots to the main body? I used a bit of sealant and they were fine upto 10psi, then started oozing oily residue! The fueling from the turbo needles wasn't too far off, not perfect but ok enough, just let down by having a high compression n/a engine underneath it all!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Love it! Liking the compact clutch release too, might help out on one or two of my other projects getting things to fit
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Stick a turbo on the side, modify the SU carbs to blow through and be done with it in my opinion. I've researched supercharging in the past, bought some stuff to do it, but compared to fitting a turbo it's insanely involved and causes more issues than turbocharging would.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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I don't know about any of that but i must say that sounds fcuking evil . Just like the Mad Max garage scene. Love that film! In reality I can't tell you how quiet it is now, there's more noise from the engine up front than what's coming out of the exhaust. It used to be borderline embarrassing how loud the exhaust was and yet moderately slow with the RimmerBros sports exhaust! Now it's looking like it's going down the stealth fighter route, I'll be creeping up on people then wailing past on boost
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Since it's been a mostly nice day today I've been outside tinkering on the SD1 trying to remember where I'd left off on the turbo conversion. I welded up some fittings and connected the oil feed and return lines, replaced a rubber fuel hose underneath, charged the battery and turned it over. After some cranking and a tickle of throttle it burst into life and immediately settled on a smooth fast idle on old petrol. I've had it start and stop a few times, all seemed good so got the camera out for one last run before leaving it to cool down because of the lack of radiator. All went well until the last couple of revs for the camera when it decided that lots of white smoke would be fun! This could be a number of things where I've just thrown it together just to get it to run. First thing to look at is the oil flow/pressure to the turbo. It's an AN4 line directly off the oil pressure switch port on the oil pump and pumped straight into the turbo. Secondly is the oil return line, which has quite a shallow angle to the sump, and is about 1/2" internal diameter at it's narrowest point so could also be the culprit? There's also some play in the bearings on the turbo. I have another Holset HX35 somewhere which I'm sure has perfect bearings and didn't produce any smoke on another engine I have it fitted to. But on a positive, I now have my SD1 running again, and it has a turbo hanging off the front
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Mar 18, 2018 15:49:16 GMT
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Mar 14, 2018 19:52:43 GMT
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And then there were 5 16x8 steelies Now to commit and decide if I'll try changing the offset by re-welding the wheel centres to suit the SD1 or not? They are 5" backspace, and I think I only need to move the rim in another 1/2", and there looks to be just enough flat surface on the rim well to move the centre out by that much to give the required 5.5" backspace. It's been a few years since I did the last set, time to clear a space on the garage floor and ready the grinder!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Photo hosting sitessowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Mar 14, 2018 18:57:49 GMT
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I'm uploading all of my photos onto Imgur now. I have set up a couple of albums for each car/project, which is ok if you upload and link as you go, but there doesn't appear to be an easy way of browsing thumbnails to hunt through the album instead of scrolling through it in order of upload?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Those wheels look great! I think they're the same ones I'm looking at getting for my Range Rover. I never thought of using them like that on a road car. Do these have the same PCD as land rover Disco 1 and RangeRover classics? These are Jeep Grand Cherokee fitment, 5x127, but the same basic wheel design that you can get for Land Rover's which I now have a few sets of! On the heavy side for a road car, but a small price to pay for a durable budget wheel that allows for cheap performance tyres to be fitted....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Although I'm running permanent 4wd my Salisbury rear and Rover front diffs are holding up ok so far, including some accidentally over-enthusiastic acceleration where it has spun the front wheels The slow changing LT77 is probably helping since I can't do my usual quick change and dump the clutch style....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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What is this?sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Land Rover LT77/R380 hi-lo difflock lever and linkage, possibly universal through most of the models, Range Rover, Disco, Defender etc. Ebay breaker values are laughable, I picked up a spare at a Land Rover jumble for a few quid.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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...since when driving on the motorway at 70mph ... Not too many 109" drivers can say this Not many Land Rover drivers are cruising on light throttle at 70mph Factory numbers for the OM606 are about 170bhp and 240lb/ft in stock form....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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You are a superb engineer! I could roll in that, without a doubt. Thanks! It helps having a good selection of tools and knowledge around me to draw from. It's a great combo, got a few thousand miles on it now I'm so impressed with this build...clearly you do not mind hiding your talents under a patina'd shell.....love the work you have been putting in. Seeing your creative use of fabbing skills is refreshing. would air better come in from some type of snorkel, might look cool, or could you make a cowl induction pop up type vent? JP Thanks . Eventually it'll need painting properly in flat green but I won't be filling any dents, maybe replacing the gash steel plate on the passenger wing with an alloy plate, and no more. I have pondered re-purposing one of the old aerial holes in the wing top into an intake, used to have a similar setup on my other Land Rover and that worked great not needing the blower to run most of the time. Fair enough! Did you originally have this in an 88"? I have a 606 in a D1...built it with an auto using a gazfab kit. Am rebuilding with a manual setup and considered the sprinter solid flywheel/tdi plate with the existing V8 gazfab adapter. I'm guessing you cut and faced the two bellhousing parts on a milling machine, aligned them and tigged together? Looks neat and love the ratty stealthing.... Yes it was in my other 88, the bellhousing was all done diy with careful measuring and a vernier, sat upright on it's nose located in the flywheel spigot then mig welded. Not ideal or professional, but did the job and it hasn't broken yet! The combination was too long in the 88 so that's being refitted with a 3.9 efi lump I drive Transits at work. And they are all limited. However on one rather fun occasion I got to drive a brand new sprinter with that engine. I loved it! The video brought it all back That is an excellent machine that you have there, dude. Thanks, you just can't beat that noise easily! Everyone says they can hear me coming
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Love it.... who needs black box technology.. Thanks, ecu's have their place, just not on this Land Rover Absolutely loving this. Top job sir! Thanks A 109 compared to an 88 is a bit of a monster and not so easy to thread between obstacles A master of the understatement! It's been a few years since I've driven one but I seem to remember the turning circle of a supertanker. The power steering helps immensely, I can spin the wheel with the palm of my hand as I shuffle it back and forth when needed! In reality it isn't too bad, the stops are wound in as far as I can get them, and with the slightly undersize tyres there is no rubbing on lock, just loads more clearance to the chassis. Like it! Did you buy an adapter kit to the gearbox or was it of your own making? 👍 I made everything, cut and shut a Mercedes and Land Rover bellhousing, and re-centred the Mercedes clutch in the dual mass flywheel. Eventually I plan to get a single mass flywheel from a Sprinter van and that should use a standard Land Rover 9.5" clutch plate. Another little mod/upgrade I have planned is to build a super-heater, by adapting a standard heater box to take a pair of matrix's instead of the single matrix. I'd also like to fit a bigger fan or find another source of air since when driving on the motorway at 70mph it seems like there isn't much airflow coming from the heater, as if the front wing side intake is in a low pressure area? Slower driving and stationary there is a reasonable amount of air being blown out of the vents, enough to keep the cab warm
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Still racking up the miles in the 109 without any major dramas, and wondering why aren't more people dropping 6 cylinder diesels into old Land Rovers? It's been coping admirably with frosty mornings The snow we had in December And even coped with the latest snow storm from the east I'm still buying up spare parts for it so I can make it better and more refined. Got a spare injector mechanical pump so I can have my homebrew modded pump sent away and balanced, and keep the 109 drivable Also bought another spare front axle from a 6 cylinder 109 for spares and the matching 3" brakes to refurb and fit And my latest purchase is an underseat battery box for the passenger side to replace the rotten fuel tank with a hole cut in the top! With this latest deep freeze we're having it's taking forever to warm up the garage enough to prime, seal and paint the battery box Two coats of 2k epoxy primer and the edges all seam sealed And a first coat of military green drab I'm also pondering when funds allow to buy a locking diff for the back axle. The 109 is so handy and nice to drive (for a series Landy), it's probably worth the investment so I'm more willing to drive further off the beaten track and do some mild offroading and maybe snow recovery! A 109 compared to an 88 is a bit of a monster and not so easy to thread between obstacles
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