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Yeah there's not much to them, really. Ideally strip them down so you can access the front and rear bearings, then you can clean with anything. Brake cleaner is fine, but if you are cleaning soily muck out then soapy water is ideal. Dry the parts out with an airline or in the oven, oil the bearings and reassemble - Clean the commutator lightly with emery cloth and rake out any smeg from between the sections with an old knife. Make sure the brushes can slide free in the housings and there is plenty of meat on them (I would imagine grit and stuff wears them down) so that they have room to push nicely on the commutator and off you go. Depending on the alternator you can usually get replacements regulators/brush packs for not a lot of money.
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Sept 28, 2015 15:59:03 GMT
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I've run these on all kinds of things. They are good for the money but obviously they don't work miracles. The best of the "budget" tyres IMO.
Ignore me, I missed the -R
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Last Edit: Oct 4, 2015 12:00:22 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 19, 2015 21:05:28 GMT
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I can only echo the above - You'd need a mega compressor to keep up with any kind of air sander - If you can run it off a normal 13a plug then it won't anywhere near run a DA, but a fairly modest one will comfortably run an impact gun and probably a spray gun. I tried an air DA on my 75 litre compressor and it seemed to somehow use more air than just having a totally open pipe, Obviously that's not possible, but it was usable for about 10 seconds before the pressure was noticeably too low to run it properly.
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Sept 15, 2015 20:48:58 GMT
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As above, if it isn't leaking then it's unlikely to need replacing. If both hoses to and from it are warm after a run (with the blowers on, set to hot) then the matrix isn't blocked either - the problem will most likely just be with the flaps.
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Sept 11, 2015 21:28:55 GMT
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Use a bit of pipe about 3/4 the diameter inside it and hammer it out. It'll probably knacker the threads, so gently use a round faced file to put a chamfer on the damaged bit so you can get the cap back in.
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Sept 3, 2015 16:38:55 GMT
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This thing is cool! You live around the corner from me on the other side of the model: Hope you don't mind me sticking a picture up that I took when I first noticed it: ![](http://i.imgur.com/5BfpwRo.jpg)
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Aug 30, 2015 15:41:59 GMT
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Are you running a lot of piston area up front? I'm just wondering if perhaps they have dialed a little bit of residual pressure holding into it to stop pad knock off, which works fine with the normal stuff it's used with but is enough to make the brakes drag on your setup.
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Aug 28, 2015 21:42:29 GMT
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What are you expecting from the paint job?
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Aug 26, 2015 11:22:19 GMT
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![](http://i.imgur.com/pNYnxLZ.jpg) Doesn't get any easier than that! Nice work.
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Last Edit: Aug 26, 2015 11:22:38 GMT by cobblers
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Aug 23, 2015 10:54:16 GMT
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The purple 17" wheels are Ford Softlines. Look very nice on mk4 Escorts. Well priced at £250
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Yeah, if those flex joints are used to form a bent permanently they crack in no time at all, they are just to allow for slop in the engine mounts and vibration and should only really be used to replace a straight length of tube.
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Aug 13, 2015 21:36:02 GMT
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For what you would have to pay someone to weld that lot, you're getting towards the price of a halfway decent welder and a bottle of pub gas, you might as well just learn to weld and do it yourself. I can't imagine any welder would want to work with patches a total novice had made - I'd consider myself reasonably good at that kind of work but half the time I curse myself when trying to stick them in.
Welding body panels is really not all that hard, just fart about with the power and wire feed til it sticks stuff together without blowing holes then work from there. A weekend of farting about with scrap panels will get you most of the way there, just follow the tutorials on mig-welding.co.uk and you'll be grand.
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Yeah, there is a proper calculation where you take the axle weight and effective force on the spring (taking into account actuation ratio) and calculate the resonant frequency of the system. This allows you to tune the vehicles "feel" regardless of weight, the higher the resonant frequency, the more sporty the ride. Here we are: blackartdynamics.com/Chassis_Articles/Springs.phpSpring Rate=M(2π⋅F)2MR2 Comfortable road car - Up to 1hz Sporty road car - 1 to 2 hz Occasional track car - 2 to 2.5 hz Full track / race car - 2.5 to 3.5hz Race car with downforce - Over 4hz
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You might be able to change the settings somewhere, with dip switches or jumpers inside. If not, you'll need to make a frequency divider circuit to blank every other pulse.
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Wideband or narrowband? If it's narrowband it's probably working properly, they are just like a switch at 14.7:1 so it only has to run ever so slightly lean to show "full lean".
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Jul 30, 2015 19:21:02 GMT
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As compo says, the wires are probably just about dead too. The water wicks its way up the copper braiding - I've followed it up over a meter of wire before.
If you are really in a bind and don't want to replace them just wire brush as much of the green off as possible, then use something like 240 grit sandpaper folded in half to clean down to bare copper on the inside of the contacts.
Pack the housings with vaseline before reassembly and you should get a few years out of them.
If you can find me any markings on the plastic housing I'll try and find you the correct terminals, they aren't usually too expensive (under 50p each)
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Jul 30, 2015 14:45:30 GMT
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Unless it's just a temporary fix, don't bother even trying to clean them, those are scrap and need to be replaced. You might get them a bit cleaner but they will be forever giving you problems as the plating has gone and they are down to bare copper (hence the verdigris) so any exposure to moisture in the air will turn them green again in no time.
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Jul 29, 2015 11:29:40 GMT
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As above, If you can get someone to do an HPI on the reg number this will return an VIN number which you can use to apply for the V5 and keep the original reg, without a Q plate.
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Last Edit: Jul 29, 2015 11:30:06 GMT by cobblers
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Jul 14, 2015 21:44:43 GMT
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They are nice vans. Gearboxes are really a sore point with them at this stage though, all the 2nd hand ones are knackered, no matter what you pay. A rebuilt is £600 ish. I stockpiled any cheap 2nd hand box I could get but I've run out, so when this one goes I'm going to have to get one built - as such, the picture of one doing a burnout actually made me cringe. Ignoring that, they are decent vans, but obviously with VW scene tax on the parts. More room in the back than later vw stuff and they drive well. I've had mine for 4 years now. It started off as a 2.1WBX panel van. I took the WBX out, put a 2.0 golf gti engine in, then cut it to bits and fitted windows. I've never owned anything for more than about 6 months, so the fact that this has stuck around speaks volumes. I commuted 40 miles to work every day it for over a year. ![](http://i.imgur.com/FxyODh.jpg) ![](http://i.imgur.com/CuYSn0qh.jpg) ![](http://i.imgur.com/aORq5yNh.jpg)
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Last Edit: Jul 14, 2015 21:47:31 GMT by cobblers
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