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Jan 13, 2013 17:31:51 GMT
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You can't rework satin paint once it's out of the gun, so you need to get it on the car without runs / dry patches / stripes etc etc. If you put lacquer over it, it would just become gloss.
You can get satin lacquer you put over gloss paint - Basically satin paint just has an additive that makes it go off with a slightly matt skin on the very top, but underneath it's just normal gloss.
Satin paint marks up just as easy as normal paint - perhaps slightly easier if it's celly which is not as hard wearing as normal 2k stuff used on most cars.
You can't polish scratches out without ending up with a shiny bit. You can wash it with the usual soapy wash/wax stuff, but don't use any wax/polish that you rub on.
Some people reckon they use WD40 over the whole vehicle to clean it and stop mud sticking, but if you get patches of wd40 on a matt/satin finish you'll end up with greasy marks that are hard to shift, so you have to do the whole vehicle. Plus I don't think I could put up with the smell.
If you're looking at satin paint hoping it's easier to paint than gloss, it's not (unless you are happy with it looking patchy)
Matt finishes are easier because you can touch areas up without having to do the full panel, but with satin you need to paint the whole panel in one hit or it'll look patchy.
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Jan 13, 2013 17:05:17 GMT
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Check the battery connections and engine/box grounds are tight and in good condition. If it doesn't turn over when you jump 12v straight on to the starter (I presume you have tried sending 12v directly to the solenoid as well) then the issue is either the starter, or the power feed to it. Get someone to turn the key while you check the voltage on the big starter motor terminal, and also the one for the solenoid. If both of them are 12v, check the voltage of the engine block with respect to some bare metal on the body somewhere, again while trying to crank the engine.
In any case, plugging it into a diagnostics computer is unlikely to help you at all with this problem, so I wouldn't waste your money.
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Jan 13, 2013 16:58:14 GMT
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If you can get some of the same plastic to use as a filler rod (there might be some you can steal off the back somewhere) you can probably plastic weld the crack up with an old soldering iron.
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Jan 13, 2013 10:38:38 GMT
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Yeah, the car needs to have a valid MOT before you can rape it for the plate.
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Jan 13, 2013 10:35:23 GMT
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1 bar is about 14.5 psi, you can ignore all the relative/absolute stuff in your situation.
If you are confident that the rest of the cooling system (hoses etc) will take the pressure, I'd personally go with the 1.4 bar cap. The higher pressure cap will allow the water to get hotter before it boils but the higher pressure will put more stress on the hose/heater matrix etc.
If there is any doubt as to the rest of the system, stick with the 7psi cap - that way if it does boil over it'll do it gracefully rather than firing a hose off or popping your heater matrix and squirting boiling water all over your legs (mk2 golf owners will know what I'm talking about)
The pressure will only build up when the engine is really hot, so if the engine is fairly well cooled anyway you could well never even reach 7psi.
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The battery was more than likely dicked to start with - sounds like being left flat it'll haven probably lost a cell.
It'll have boiled it's head off because it's then charging at 14.odd volts into a 5 cells rather than all 6, so it'll be like charging a normal battery at 17v.
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Use nuts and bolts of various sizes rather than rocks - they won't leave any debris of their own inside, and if for whatever reason you can't managed to get a few of them out, they won't cause any issues if left in the tank.
I read some bloke lashed his tank to a cement mixer and left it spinning for an hour to save rattling it around himself.
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Jan 11, 2013 23:20:02 GMT
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Pretty much as above - They can only "try" and sue you for genuine losses - being a private company they cannot issue fines etc. Basically they try it on and see if you buckle and pay them. Sometimes they might take a case to court for a laugh if they are feeling lucky and for whatever reason the other party has put their foot in it (by saying something like "After signing your contract to store the car at £50 a day up to a max of 4 weeks after which you would weight in it, and then leaving it 2 months I decided that this was too expensive so I want my car back plz") Them picking a vehicle up and storing it for a fortnight hasn't genuinely cost them £480, and even if it did, you never entered into a contract with them agreeing that you would pay this amount. Again, they are just a private company who you never entered any contract with - You don't owe them £480, especially If this is genuinely the first thing you have heard from them! They will threaten court and use scary legal speak - they will even probably eventually pass it on to some fairy tale"debt collectors". These "debt collectors" might phone you up and send scary letters, but they have no more power than any man off the street - they aren't bailiffs, so all they can do is call and annoy you. The only way that this could have a genuine affect on your credit rating (or have anyone with authority to remove goods turn up at your house) would be for them to take you to court (quite unlikely) and to win (provided you bother with a defense you'd more than likely win). You could send them a letter back stating that you never entered into any contract with them with regards to paying recovery fees, and since they have not contacted you you will not entertain responsibility for their storage fees, however you are willing to sign ownership of the vehicle over to them to do as they please. Make sure any contact with them is in writing, and keep a copy of it all, just in case. I would guess that a good percentage of vehicles they uplift end up in a similar situation, they will be used to it. Don't lose any sleep over it. If you want some more info off people who are a bit more into this kind of pseudo contract law, go to www.pepipoo.com and stick a thread up - they will probably give you advice more or less along the lines of what I have.
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Last Edit: Jan 11, 2013 23:22:05 GMT by cobblers
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Seriously? How much is a new silencer? By the time you've finished messing about you may as well have put a new one on it. Two big jubilee clips, a roll of aly tape, and a tub of exhaust paste from halfords would set you back the best part of £50, and would probably make a decent job of covering the hole for a few hundred miles, maybe 1000 if you are lucky. What would a new exhaust box cost?
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How about replacing the heater motor? They are available new. Give all the associated wiring a good check over and make sure it's all fused correctly, etc.
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As you cut a spring, the rate goes up proportionally - For each inch travel now, each coil has to compress twice as much)
Cutting a 300lb spring in half would make it a 600lb spring.
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This looks like its going to be fantastic!
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For some reason your image file names are absolutely massively long. This forum software is a bit strange in that it randomly seems to add spaces into long URLS, and that's why your images aren't working when you put the [/img] stuff round them - you aren't doing anything wrong, its just proboards forum being rubbish. I use www.imgur.com instead of photobucket - it's a lot simpler and shortens all the filenames so that pictures work properly.
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Nice car, from a google of the guys mobile number he's near Hadleigh in Essex.
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Hey, that looks a nice clean van! That M code stuff is interesting, seems similar to the stuff my pal got when he got birth certificates for his splitties. Is it a website?
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I'd purge it with soapy water, hot and from a pressure washer if possible to try and get rid of the smell, I've had problems trying to send packages that only had a very mild petrol/solvent smell.
Oh, and it's "Car body parts" not a fuel tank. Just make sure it's not got any fuel in and wrap it well.
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Last Edit: Jan 4, 2013 9:37:29 GMT by cobblers
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Have you redone the tappets? did the pushrods and followers all go back in the same holes?
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Sounds like the usual tappets to me. My mums sounds like that for 10 minutes 50% of the time after you start it, sometimes it doesn't go away, but usually it does. It's done that for a couple of years.
Get the engine nice and warm, sling in a tub of engine flushand run it around the block for 15 miles or so and it'll more than likely sort it out for a few months or so. Be sure to change the oil and filter for fresh stuff afterwords though, the engine flush thins the oil out so it's no good long term
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Last Edit: Jan 2, 2013 18:11:18 GMT by cobblers
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One of the local places has apparently set up a "Cash A Cheque" place in a spare office next to the gate.
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Do you have a vacuum guage you could lob on? If not they aren't a lot of money off the bay.
EDIT: Check all the pipes for the EGR system, it's vacuum actuated so if a pipe is completely off, when the EGR solenoid opens you'll lose a lot of vacuum - perhaps remove and block the vacuum pipe that goes to the EGR valve actuating solenoid thing and block the line completely to see if the problem goes away. The "after a few miles" problem does eem like perhaps the EGR is kicking in once the engine is warm.
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Last Edit: Jan 1, 2013 17:03:30 GMT by cobblers
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