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The worst thing you can do to a lead acid battery is let it go flat. Batteries will discharge themselves over time even when untouched. To keep it healthy, Put it on charge directly after using it, and then pop it on charge every month or two to keep it topped up and you'll be fine. Unless it's very badly designed you shouldn't be able to over charge it.
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May 16, 2017 21:28:22 GMT
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You've got a PM!
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May 14, 2017 12:02:19 GMT
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Lucas are just a "shell" brand now, like Polaroid, Blaupunkt etc - they'll stamp their logo on absolutely anything and AFAIK don't manufacture or develop "in house" anymore. The stuff they stick their logo on is of very variable quality. Don't pay a premium for a Lucas part!
To answer your question in a roundabout way: FAE might the switches for Lucas, but it doesn't really matter because Lucas stuff isn't really "Lucas" anymore.
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May 14, 2017 11:37:58 GMT
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Last Edit: May 14, 2017 11:39:24 GMT by cobblers
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+1 on the DBpower lithium ones, they're ace. There's really no reason to buy a traditional lead acid boost pack to start a car nowadays, they're all such curse word quality.
Either buy a Lithium one, or just get a spare car battery and some jump leads.
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For gods sake don't use an easy out for anything, ever. They just snap and leave undrillable hardened steel in the bit you should have just drilled out to start with.
Center punch it and drill it out with ever increasing drill bits. Once you're up to say 5 or 6mm, hammer a torx or hex bit into it and try and wind it out. Don't go mad and snap your bit off - if it won't move, wiggle it out and drill bigger and try again.
Eventually you'll either wind it out or drill enough of the bolt out that it goes loose and you can wind it out by hand.
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That nut looks like it's never been fitted to anything, there's no marks on the nyloc insert, nor any witness marks on the mating face. As above, it's a spare one from the factory that you've just found.
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The gauge in my 88 t25 varies by 1/4 of a tank depending on which way you're turning or accelerating, it's definitely just one of those things.
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Oh if it's 30 ohms there's just too much current flowing for any reasonable sized capacitor to make much of a difference if fitted directly on the coils.
You'd need to make a buffer circuit really to totally isolate the gauge from the sender and filter the signal, but it quickly starts getting complicated
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What's the resistance on your sender? From memory older stuff is like <1000 ohms so to make any real difference you'd need a load of capacitance, in the region of 10,000uf+ to damp out sloshes from cornering.
If you've got two coils and a wiper resistor, wire the caps across each coil, obviously minding the polarity.
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Oh it'll drive absolutely awful mate, T25s just don't have the suspension travel in them to go anywhere near low. The "been there done that" part of me wants to tell you not to bother, but loads of people told me that too and I ignored them! Those dampers are short enough that they don't bottom out even with the top suspension arm belting hard into the seat tubs - You don't need them any shorter because the suspension can't actually move any more than that. Theres plenty of travel in the stock rear dampers, you don't need shorter ones - when we bagged my mates panel van we kept the stock rear shocks/mounts. This is on stock rear shocks with airbags. IIRC the internal bumpstop on the bags was limiting the height of this, equivalent to having springs 2" long.
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So, I spent a week pottering about in it, I put a couple of bottles of lifter treatment in, hoping to quiet down the ticking. I had a faff with the cooling system (it was getting fairly warm) and fitted a new stat, tidied up some pipes etc. I even repaired the idle speed control module and sorted the timing out - this this was now running like a dream! But that ticky lifter was still there, so I decided to splash the cash on a new set of hydraulic followers and some telescopic pushrod tubes - I changed the lot. And guess what - It still sounds awful: I reckon it's a baggy little end bearing. There's minimal if any metal in the oil, and I've driven it sounding like this for about 400 miles without it exploding, so it can't be a big end or a main. There's also plenty of oil pressure. So after ringing round and getting £1500-£2k quotes for an engine rebuild, I found a 2nd hand one for £400. Admittedly, it doesn't look much: But I am assured by the seller (who I trust) that it's a goodun. Yesterday I lugged the engine and the van down to my mums garage, where I'll be doing the swap and I degreased the engine, pressure washed it and then took all the plugs out, oiled up the bores and wound the engine over with my drill and a 30mm socket. It turns over smoothly, all 4 pots have compression so it's worth a go! Later today I'll the taking the engine out of the van, somehow. I'm working alone, so I'm going to have to devise a system of bits of wood and stuff to allow me to slide the old engine off and slide the new one back in without killing myself.
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My T25 camper van is up for sale because I never use it, so what better to do than buy another? This one is fairly rough looking so I'm a bit less worried about leaving it on the street and I might actually use it (the other is parked 20 miles away in my mums garage) I've had this a few weeks now but never got round to starting a thread on here, so there's a bit to catch up on. It came up for sale through a bloke I'm friends with on Facebook. Apparently it was owned by one of the VW magazines which was bought out and came as part of the assets. It's generally a solid van, could do with a tailgate and a back arch though. It was all in it's original paint until some complete fannies painted it up like the mystery machine. Then sanded it all off leaving the original paint pretty buggered. Eventually I will probably end up getting it painted, but for now I'm just going to mechanically sort it all out, hopefully it'll replace my Abarth 500 as a daily since I only use it once or twice a week anyway. Much to my amazement, it's got OE PAS, and it's brilliant. The auto box is nice too. The engine has a horrible sticky lifter* so I've got a couple of tins of lifter treatment in the oil but I might end up taking it to get some new ones fitted. Apparently the engine was new 18k ago though but we all know how much that means... Anyway, other than clacking it's curse word off like a car on GTA2 thats about to explode, it drives really well and even passed it's MOT without any advisories. *Turns out it wasn't a lifter at all
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Apr 29, 2017 21:10:35 GMT
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Apr 20, 2017 20:07:15 GMT
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There was a bloke that did these as a service, He'd basically just sand the sidewalls smooth and then use a special rubber paint that he also sold separately. MR whitewalls: www.mrwhitewalls.com/
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Apr 14, 2017 10:33:13 GMT
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If you've got an old Bosch pumped vehicle, just tip the veg in and go. It knackers lucas pumps but bosch are fine. 100% veg in a newer diesel would be a very bad idea.
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Mar 22, 2017 19:55:06 GMT
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Basically anything you've got to hand will suffice. I'd probably use 1.5mm2 cable, fused at 5A, but you'll get away with 1mm and 3A no problems at all.
Those USB converters have a switch mode supply inside, which are about 80% efficient. 5v 2.1A out is 10.5W. It'll probably draw 13w, so about 1 amp tops at 12ish V.
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You're correct, less teeth would make the speedo read higher, but only by 5% so you're still a good way off. You'd need a gear with 20% less teeth. Assuming you could get one, the pitch would be too far different to stock that they'd be unlikely to mesh properly.
You can get inline "converters" with gears which run in the middle of your speedo cable, or it might be possible to tweak the calibration of your speedo - "Speedy cables" do it for something like £80, or you could have a go yourself (I presume you adjust the clearance between the magnet and the "cup" to adjust for scale, or you could probably tweak the spring. It'd be easy to get yourself into a mess without an accurate RPM signal to drive the thing and calibrate it though.
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Last Edit: Mar 6, 2017 19:59:50 GMT by cobblers
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Can't see any reason why you can't run COP as wasted spark though. If you get coils with intregrated ignitors then the load on the trigger pins on the ECU is minimal, so you shouldn't have any issues pairing them.
However it does boil down to why you're wanting to convert to COP - for better coils, or for individual control?
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If you just want a basic one to read ECU fault codes from a few cars, then all the "ELM327 clone" ones will do the job. I have a few of them, all bluetooth. They connect to my phone and I use an app called "torque" to check/clear fault codes. I used to leave one plugged in permanently on my old Ibiza as it'd bring the engine light on every few weeks because of a Decat.
The next step up is something like a £60 snide Delphi DS150 off eBay, which read fault codes, but also allow you to change a few settings and go a bit more in depth.
Both the above options are using "pirated" software - the ELM327 readers use a cloned chip, and the Delphi use cracked software on your PC. I'll leave you to decide on the ethics of it all, personally I've used both at home but at work we've invested £10k in diagnostics equipment.
If you want to be "legit" then the genuine ELM327 dongles are £40/£50 and the Delphi is about £1500.
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