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Feb 27, 2019 21:31:05 GMT
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I finally started a task today that I have been putting off for months - Fitting the dash top. I have been prevaricating and ruminating for some time as I couldn't decide on the best way to do it. Initially I was going to simply stick it on and access the electrics through the central switch panel and the glove box cover. However, as the stuff behind the dash became more complicated and numerous it became obvious that I would need to retrain as a gynaecologist in order to be able to work on everything. So, I decided that part of the dash top had to be removable to allow decent access, but how to do this without it looking rubbish? I have yet to finalise how the removable cover is going to be secured but at least I have made a start and this is usually the most difficult part of any project.  I see you've drilled that brick... for lightness Nah,that was the brick I used to get the brick dust to cover the carbon fibre brick I made. Bricks are, by their very nature. heavy. However if you make them out of carbon fibre you can achieve the same mass without the weight.   |
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Last Edit: Feb 27, 2019 21:31:36 GMT by nalesutol
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Feb 27, 2019 15:44:00 GMT
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They help to persuade the air to follow the line of the body and direct it to the outside of the wheel, hopefully reducing drag. Fitted to many new high end cars, especially BMWs, although not so obviously :-) Still looking into design tweaks. Update. They will also add a little downforce.I got the feeling they were supposed to squirt the air up over the top of the wheel. Maybe you should built a wind tunnel next. 😁 No, around the outside. If it was squirted over the wheel this would increase the pressure over the wheel requiring additional wheel well vents to remove it. Believe me, I have thought about it :-) Getting a smooth regular flow is the difficult part. Blowing the air over the car doesn't work as the fan messes it up, it has to be sucked over the car once it has been passed tough various vanes that have straightened it out, which is why wind tunnels are sort of circular. |
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Last Edit: Feb 27, 2019 15:45:37 GMT by nalesutol
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The clamp looks a bit heavy though  Sorry, carry on.... I’ll get my coat  Do you think so? It is my lightest, plastic clamp. |
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Feb 26, 2019 11:21:25 GMT
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Now made from carbon, with the top edge curved in slightly to both add a little rigidity and reduce the tendency for the air to spill over the edge. It will spill over as the exit is smaller than the inlet but there is no point in making it easy :-) And before anyone asks, the weight of the curtains is less than the weight of the lengths of rubber U channel (that will run along the edge of the splitter) they replace :-)   |
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Last Edit: Feb 26, 2019 13:55:30 GMT by nalesutol
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Feb 25, 2019 23:49:34 GMT
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They help to persuade the air to follow the line of the body and direct it to the outside of the wheel, hopefully reducing drag. Fitted to many new high end cars, especially BMWs, although not so obviously :-) Still looking into design tweaks.
Update. They will also add a little downforce.
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Last Edit: Feb 26, 2019 10:26:59 GMT by nalesutol
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My aero guru likes the air curtain, so I will develop this idea a little more.  |
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Feb 24, 2019 23:03:50 GMT
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Attached a suitcase scale to the glove box cover to see how much force is required to pull it off the magnets. 5kg. As I have a 4 pot motor it should stay in place during acceleration :-)
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It will be a good start as it works with existing cars that we may own, with the attendant restrictions and compromises, rather then ideal solutions for race cars requiring extensive body mods and redesigns. It also has a few how too projects.
I also have Competition Car Aerodynamics by Simon McBeath. This is an excellent book, but it does also deal with single seaters and goes into more technical detail.
Race Car aerodynamics - Designing for Speed by Joseph Katz is a lot more technical, but referenced in both the above books.
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I think so. Lots of practical examples and experiments and few equations. However, I have read quite a few books on the subject so a lot of the stuff I already knew but there is stuff that is new to me. Book would make a good starting point for people new to the subject as it is based on cars we drive rather then exotic race cars. |
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Last Edit: Feb 24, 2019 0:13:07 GMT by nalesutol
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Feb 23, 2019 18:55:04 GMT
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Playing around with the air curtain concept. Initial thought was to extent the curtain up to the bumper but this hid the indicator so a no go.   |
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Last Edit: Feb 23, 2019 18:58:47 GMT by nalesutol
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Feb 23, 2019 17:19:52 GMT
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Hi Re the dash top cover - won't the front be just about held in place by the windscreen, or a small lip in places there, so it will only need fixing at the dashboard edge? There is 30mm left of the original top which the new section clips on to. This is now secured by 4 clips that slide under the original section. The front, hopefully will be held in place with magnets. However, the glue securing these is in the process of curing so I won't know if this will work until tomorrow. |
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Feb 23, 2019 12:51:46 GMT
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Testing the heavy duty double sided tape used to secure the rare earth magnets to the glove box cover.
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Feb 22, 2019 20:39:13 GMT
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New dash top cover came out OK. On looking at how to fit it I realised that it is less than half the thickness of the original (saving 1/4Kg). I planned to sit the cover flush with the rest of the top using the trim piece I made at the same time, but then the lightbulb moment occurred. Why not sand the existing section and sit the new piece into it, dispensing with 100gms of trim and glue? :-) The recess is a little tatty at the moment but it works. A few hours of sanding and filling and it should look OK. I still need to settle on a securing method.   |
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Feb 22, 2019 20:29:42 GMT
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A little light nighttime reading. I have a fair few books on aerodynamics but they tend to concentrate on single seaters, which means that a lot of the stuff (underfloor aero for example) is not too relevant to my project. This one looks like it may be more useful, just a shame about the car on the cover :-)  |
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Feb 21, 2019 21:34:33 GMT
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Right, moving on from the seats :-)......... Started on the dash top removable panel, as the piece cut out will be slightly too small. Laid up the cover out of 2 layers of 360gm/m2 prepreg, as is the support ring. This is now cooking. The oven used to get up to 120 deg C quite easily, however the internal silver reflective sheeting has shrunk so is not so effective. I will be leaving the oven on over night so, hopefully it will reach 90 deg C which is enough to cure the carbon. We shall see tomorrow morning.    |
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Feb 21, 2019 14:49:57 GMT
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Just back from a conversation with my MOT station's owner. No issues with a fixed seat, or unopening windows, so all's right with the world and crisis averted :-)
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Feb 21, 2019 12:25:51 GMT
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The exception clause is geared towards road legal competition cars. It specifically states that cars just fitted with aftermarket parts aren't classed as competition cars so have to conform to the main rules, ie seat has to move.
I would like to think that my car would be classed as extensively modified for competition :-)
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13 Extensively modified vehicles If a vehicle has been extensively modified or converted, certain defects, such as for components ‘missing where fitted as standard’ shouldn't be applied, for example: • a car converted for competition rally use must have the rear seats removed, be fitted with a roll cage and full harness seat belts, may not be fitted with components such as brake servo, power steering or airbags • a car converted to a stretch limousine may no longer be fitted with items such as curtain airbags or a functional electronic stability control system This exemption doesn’t apply to vehicles with minor modifications. Therefore, a car fitted with rally style seats, body kit and a sports steering wheel wouldn’t be exempt from the requirement to have a driver’s airbag if one was fitted as standard equipment. Vehicles modified for disabled use must be assessed on their merits. For example, it's acceptable for the driver’s airbag to be removed for a wheelchair user, but the SRS warning lamp mustn't indicate a system malfunction. mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk/when-is-a-modified-vehicle-a-rally-car/Thanks, that is very useful. I will pop into my MOT station this morning and see what they have to say :-) |
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We were discussing, at the pub last night, whether the driver's seat had to be adjustable when car is being MOT'd.
Taken from the MOT tester's manual:
Body, Structure and General Items - 6.2 Seats and Doors
3. Check that the drivers seat position can be adjusted forwards and backwards and secured in the selected positions.
If this is the case, how do rally cars with fixed seats pass the test?
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Feb 20, 2019 17:22:17 GMT
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I finally started a task today that I have been putting off for months - Fitting the dash top. I have been prevaricating and ruminating for some time as I couldn't decide on the best way to do it. Initially I was going to simply stick it on and access the electrics through the central switch panel and the glove box cover. However, as the stuff behind the dash became more complicated and numerous it became obvious that I would need to retrain as a gynaecologist in order to be able to work on everything. So, I decided that part of the dash top had to be removable to allow decent access, but how to do this without it looking rubbish? I have yet to finalise how the removable cover is going to be secured but at least I have made a start and this is usually the most difficult part of any project.    |
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