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God I need one of these. Love the patching. Already earmarked an old American pick- up/merc turbodiesel conversion for my next project once the John Deere ‘G’ is finished…
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May 17, 2016 12:53:15 GMT
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You know you married the right girl when you come home to this :-)
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May 17, 2016 12:41:12 GMT
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The Capri was very quick and as for the light blue Ferrari 275gtb, beautiful, very fast (surprisingly so) and sounded brilliant.
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May 17, 2016 12:39:49 GMT
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May 17, 2016 12:39:18 GMT
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May 17, 2016 12:36:10 GMT
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Back from Spa after watching 2 days of porn. Car burnt 1 16A ciggie lighter fuse 1mile from home as a result of 2 days of satnav use and that is it. ¾ of a tank to get from North Norfolk to Stavelot in Belgium caning it along the way. Very pleased. Have a vibration from the gear linkage to sort and some heavy abuse has resulted in one of the flex discs feeling a bit worse for wear. The EBC Green stuff pads made a very welcome difference to the braking – well worth £55.
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May 10, 2016 14:13:14 GMT
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You will be amazed how little you will need a fan in the UK if your rad is in good nick, i ran my W124 diesel without a fan for a year, if the temp began to rise I turned the heater up and that would control the temp! I now have a SPAL fan and it’s the best I have used todate. Only 9” but sucks like hell – 650CFM from memory.
Looks like i'm not the only one.
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Thanks. Before you do any cutting have a look at the shape of the back box section, you might be able to remove are replace with a bit of straight pipe. Then if you don't like the sound you can refit the old set up. i'm running one big silencer on the merc, I would be have 2 but I'm limited with the space available.
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R129 callipers and 300x28mm discs. As I need spacers and still not sure if I want JDM style sticky outie wheels (wonder if I can roll the arches by 10mm?) I’ll stick with the standard set up for the moment. So… in the interim I have bought and fitted some EBC Green stuff as Reds are not available for that pad shape. Should be an improvement as the old pads were very warn (no surprise…) and bog standard. We’ll see how they perform as I’m off to watch some classic racing at Spa this weekend coming, so I’ll get a thousand or so miles on her. Went to Merc to get the Tracking/Alignment done last week – the faces of the mechanics when they lifted the bonnet was very amusing – should have got a picture of that scene really. They loved it.
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Fruity exhausts on stright 6 turbodiesels are brilliant! Do it! Some vids of mine (home built system)
and
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If it was me I'd buy an old w210 with a 606 in it, strip the engine and transmission out, put a mech pump on it with a boost actuated wastage and a trans controller. Would not be at all surprised if the engine mounts lined up.
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Much better, problem is I need to add 10mm spacers to make the wheels fit. My rare OZ genuine forged AMG ones, that have been refurbished and have new tyres. Those ones. Gutted. :-(
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Refurbished 4pot. Could not find the right sized pins so made these screw in jobbies. Works beautifully.
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Standard set up, not really holding up.
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How much?! Having said that they are quality and so far work perfectly.
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Years ago I attended a lecture by a chap called Dave Vizzard – some of you chaps on this forum will know of him from his A-Series/pinto etc exploits. I learned many simple tips about tuning and the biggest and most simple one was “you’ve gotta have flow”. Whatever you do try and get flow. This was the main reason I have used the bare minimum amount (4) silicone hoses and any bend more acute than 135degress is alloy tubing. Also I went for 3”, which is a complete PITA compared to using 2.5” and 90 silicone degree fittings. Anyway what I’m getting at is that as you will have read that one of the pipes blew off at one point putting a dent in the alloy tubing wall. This obviously restricted the flow even though it was on the inside radii. Once the pipe was repaired I noted that there was no smoke at all at what with boost. Before there was a touch. The repair must have provided enough extra air to lean the mixture out a bit, which potentially means I can add a bit more fuel and get a bit more power – which is the last thing the car needs so I’m now running smoke free. Interesting though. Having said that - who has seen the Engine Masters vid where homeless Dave dented the hell out of the headers? Made no difference at all and they properly went for it!!!!
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Fuel pump oil leak. Really annoying!!! The flat section of the studs is too long, meaning that cover and gasket does not fit snuggly. Oily mess that could be repaired with the addition of 2 small washers…. However it’s me. So I risked all trying and succeeding at removing the studs and replacing with bolts. Hey presto, its leak free and in fact that was the only leak on the engine – she’s now tight as a tick and the garage floor/drive are devoid of oil spots Gave the block a good clean and then also tried to fit a stronger return spring to the throttle. Was a PITA so I axed that. I also increased the idle speed a touch and now maneuverer without any throttle. I tried fitting a throttle damper to try and eliminate a diesel jerk. Not enough stroke so back to the drawing board on that.
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The NEW rad has sprung a tiny leak; Gutted – do it properly with a new part and get spanked as a result . Rather than cock about and get it repaired etc I have just bought another, £50 difference without the time lost and fuel used to deliver and pick up. Trimmed the bottom hose by 10mm too – that was touching the ic pipe. Have bought a small SPAL fan just in case. I built the car with a fan controller already wired/plumbed in but the engine has never passed 100c so has been running sans fan todate. Once on a hot day I got stuck in traffic (a proper ball ache with the heavy clutch) and the temp started to rise, I found that I could get it back to normal temp by turning the heater onto Max. The theory is that a 9” fan is has a higher airflow (625cfm) than the blower motor.
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