Despite the fact I have electrical faults throughout the cortina I have decided to make an exhaust because when it does run it's rather loud!
Problem is I've never made one before - I have done a bit of research into what components I'll need but I cold do with some more advice
Joints - I wasn't going to use flexible ones but wasn't sure whether to us V bands as much as I need to, the manifold is 1.5 at the end with a 60s style v band which i was going to remove and fit a 1.5 to 1.75 reducer - upping it to the right size from the manifold out then using a sleeve to go over that for the main straight and secure with a U bolt
I'm not sure how this would sound but its straight through which is good for performance, I have a feeling that I'll need to cut the tailpipe and add a small bend in so that it exits the rear straight but thats just a personal thing!
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
MOT Sept 2016 Mileage 109120 (will rise with daily Driving) Price - £550 (would consider P/x not sure what I want to be honest)
I bought this Volvo back in December as I wanted to have a bit of retro motoring in my life again whilst the Cortina was being worked on, the plan was to lower it and change the wheels and drive it as it was but with restoring the Cortina and renovating our house this has fallen by the wayside so I have decided to sell it on.
I use the car everyday and it always starts and drives very well for a car that is soon to turn 30, the engine works as it should although will vibrate when cold but is fine when the coldstart has turned off, the autobox is smooth and changes gears as it should with all bits working as it should.
With it being a GLE it does have all the toys such as Sunroof which opens and doesn't leak, Leather seats with heated seats for the front which get to temperature very quickly, a ski hatch that is excellent for picking up skirting board I found out!
Mechanically as I said the car is perfect, its been well looked after with a stamped service book going to 2010 including major services that were perfomred well before they were required.
It does however have some downsides; the front door card pockets are broken and need replacing, the drivers door card is torn but could be glued together I think, the headligning has sagged which is standard for any car that came straight out of Stockholm, the ariel is broken but does have a modern head unit with aux input - perfect for listening to Snoop Dogg which seems oddly appropraite for the volvonator! the bodywork also has scrapes and denst that come from carpark damage etc, the rear passengers side doortrim is missing
As I've said I'm after £550 but I'm open to offers either cash/ cars - just ask!
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
The battery could be suspect, can you put a better or known battery on to eliminate that? If not it could be an earth still and it's earthing through the handbrake or choke cable. using a jump lead from battery earth to the engine as suggested can prove that.
As far the problems with the lights and other sundry items goes, you do need to check the earth,s around the car. What happens is if the lights are on for example and the earth lead for the light cluster is faulty it will find an earth through the indicator bulb and then to the indicator bulb at the front and then its earth. This will power all the bulbs on route but because the resistance is higher they will all glow dimly if you can see it at all. So you need to go round the car finding and cleaning up the earth,s.
Sorry, I don't mean to be a nag over this.
Colin
You're not nagging Colin - I'm not great with electronics! I'll try the battery out of my daily too I have an idea which earth maybe an issue
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
I'll check the earths again but everything was fine before the battery was removed? I'll check the steering column for shorts.
Battery is in correctly, could be on its though as it's been run flat then charged several times.
The main earth's for engine and battery are bare metal. Something isn't right though as the dials register very high very quickly but not overheating etc
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
They've struck again! Recently I've been trying to get my mk1 cortical running again after years of welding and generally being dormant. After difficulties getting the engine to fire I put the problems down to a lean mixture backed up by back firing and not being able to idle when running.
Thursday I removed the battery as it's currently sat next to the car on a bench till I can mount it in the boot again then set about removing the carb.
Friday the carbon was rebuilt and refitted along with a thermostat and I filled the coolant up
Today I refitted the battery as it was on Thursday before I took it off, primed the carb but when I turned the key the indicator lights (dash ones the external ones aren't fittd) were on and the battery was acting as though it was flat - it's got 12v at the battery and starter solenoid.
The indicators will turn off if the brake pedal is up - this has never happened before.
I'm very confused and now I can't get enough power to get it running so I can get the carbon and ignition set up
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
I was wrong! Very very wrong! The bike carbs leaked terribly, the 28/36 throttle shaft was the wrong diameter so I eventually got lucky by finding another carb in much better condition but the main reason for being so quiet is because I have been rather busy!
last October I got married! It was a brilliant day I managed to sneak the cortina into my vows - as did my wife!
2 days after we were married we completed on our house so we now have our own home! Complete with a home for Tina but other DIY projects got in the way before I could mover her in! The garage got a full makeover prior to this but I cant find the photos but it's bigger than the one tina used to live in which is making life much easier - I even have room for my Lathe.
I had another thread on here trying to work out the problems of not getting spark but thankfully that's been resolved and Tina now runs - but the mixutre is very lean as it wont run unless there is some throttle down so I have an air leak - possibly from the vacuum advance as I tried to block it off using a self tapping screw - perhaps something like resin might help???
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
I've had the dizzy off and timed up and a second battery solely connected to the starter it fired but wouldn't run but it could be the fact the starter was still running slightly
I feel it's more to the power front to back possibly the positive cable? I'll try and rig the battery to the front which will answer that
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
1500GT pre crossflow? Is it a replacement distributor or just the pack inside? If you are using an accuspark 'stealth' type system where the control box is in the dizzy then they don't time up in the same place as the original points ones. If you have fitted the 'stealth pack' inside the old dizzy then there is a good chance the timing is well off. Do you have a timing light ? Remove plugs and leads from 2,3 & 4 but connect the timing light to number 1 then use the timing light to check the timing on the front pulley as you crank it, just don't touch the other leads while you do it.
It's a whole new distributor from them - I think tonight I'll try all 4 he leads for sparks and remove the dizzy and try again
Also fit new earth straps etc
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
If that's correct then one of two things is happening: 1) you're losing the spark under heavy cranking due to voltage drop. Could be on the postive or negative side, add additional engine to body earthing (never can have too much) and try using jump pack/battery direct on the starter. You need a minimum of 12v at the coil. 2) you could actually be getting sparks during cranking, just not in the right order. Static timing set? Plug leads in the right order?
I definitely am from 1 and 4 because they were to hand from the key etc
I'll get another strap tomorrow. I've changed the primary jet as it was too small
Go over everything else again!
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
I'm sorry I didn't mean to give half a story, it's a 66 mk1 gt.the dizzy is all new lucas replacement with no vacuum advance because I want to run bike carbs in the future. The carb vacuum line has been sealed
Battery is in the boot and I've used a thick core cable as recommended by Classic Ford Magazine.
I checked voltage at the coil at 12.4 when ignition is on but haven't checked under cranking.
I get sparks when I hold the lead or plug a few mm from the head
It sounds like a ballast issue on paper but the coil resistance and voltage suggest otherwise!
1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds