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Feb 11, 2017 22:04:12 GMT
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it was from specialised covers, details -
Specialised Covers Limited 1 & 2 Riverdale House Dockfield Road Shipley United Kingdom BD17 7AD
f you have any queries regarding your order please contact our sales team on 01943 864 646. Alternatively, you can email us on sales@specialisedcovers.com
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Feb 11, 2017 21:58:35 GMT
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I bought an expensive tailored cover for one of my Carlton GSis after advice from club members, cant remember the brand but I could check, it cost about £270 quite a few years ago.
Anyway, its great, the car comes out every spring looking great with no dirt or paint damage.
I do have some rules though.
I only put the cover on a freshly cleaned car, the under side of the cover is lovely and soft but it only needs grit in it once and it will damage paint for ever. I hose the cover down a couple of days before taking it off to get the worst dirt off and use a soft brush just before. I'm careful when I take the cover off to not allow the outside touch the inside and I take it in the house and store it in the top of a wardrobe, its quite big.
I had the car in next doors brick and asbestos garage one year and wouldnt do it again, it spent the winter with condensation on metal surfaces. The cover is way better.
If you have to keep it in a damp garage make it well ventilated in a way that allows throughflow so that you can feel a draught blowing through if its windy outside. I have a rented garage in my allotment and did this, it has a floor that allows damp in but rebuilt my other Carlton in there had no damp issues, it has a gap under the doors at one end and under the eaves at the other, you can feel the air moving through most of the time.
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Feb 10, 2017 22:49:10 GMT
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I've used eletrlolysis, it is a great thing to do for a good result but for something that isnt getting painted afterwards I'd just chuck them in a bucket of cheap vinegar for a few days then rinse with water them oil or WD40. Vinegar is the cheapest way (I guess coke will be too) and a nice lazy mans option.
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Jan 27, 2017 21:16:44 GMT
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Maybe not what you meant but I sold my Beetle for it to become Barrys Volkswagen Beetle given to him by VW UK.
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Jan 27, 2017 15:11:03 GMT
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If they are designed to use the centre bore then you shouldnt be using any of the hand tool ideas, it makes balancing of the wheels a bit pointless as a fraction of a millimeter will offset the weight. Unless you don't care about the spigot and make the hole too big and let the studs do the work. I can't say I agree with you. For one the centre bore, is in the centre where the effects of any rotational mass would be insignificant. The weight of the material removed would be next to nothing. It will have zero effect on balancing. They are a location aid, nothing more and in any case you can file the centre perfectly accurately using hand tools. The only work the studs are doing is to allow you to bolt the wheels up to the correct torque. The wheels are held in place by the friction between the two mating surfaces of the wheel and the hub, not the bolts/studs. Think about it, do you really think for example the wheel bolts 10mm are going to survive the amount of shear force a car could apply to them? This is the whole reason wheel bolts shear off when people don't do them up to the correct torque. The are designed to have tensile strength, not shear strength. You have misunderstood me. That tiny bit of weight that might not have been removed evenly in the centre is indeed fairly insignificant, what I'm talking about is the possibility of forcing the entire wheel to be slightly off centre. A very small amount will make a big difference to balance. Of course you could just make it oversized so the wheel cant be held off centre by any inaccuracy in the centre bore and rely only on the studs for centreing, but most car manufacturers design them to be hubcentric. I didnt make much effort to look but quickly found info such as this about spacer rings and the importance of centreing - "Centric rings are usually needed only for post-sale rims, since the original rims usually come with a center bore of the right size. Usually the hub centric rings are used with alloy wheels, but sometimes steel rims may need hub centric rings. The purpose of the centric ring is to perfectly center the alloy wheel to the wheel hub and hence prevent vibration to the steering wheel during driving and the shaking which typically appears around speeds of 40-60 mph. I'm saying that a manually increased bore makes the hubcentric feature useless. BTW, I understand very well indeed how fasteners, clamps, forces, tolerances and machining etc etc work and what the purpose of the studs and the centre bore are. If they were my wheels I'd either bore them out on my own lathe if they fitted (some wont) or use one of the precision sub contractors I use at work and agree a method for them to do it. Probably clock the centre in to within microns on a CNC milling machine and whip it out in one cut.
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Jan 25, 2017 23:15:11 GMT
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You don't need a fancy machine shop with good CNC machines, you need a small company that has a large manual lathe or even the most basic CNC milling machine and will charge you for the one to two hours it will take to do it.
If they are designed to use the centre bore then you shouldnt be using any of the hand tool ideas, it makes balancing of the wheels a bit pointless as a fraction of a millimeter will offset the weight. Unless you don't care about the spigot and make the hole too big and let the studs do the work.
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Jan 21, 2017 12:20:13 GMT
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Very nice. Is that a 6? I'm currently looking for an XJR6 although I have to sell my current daily first. It is a 6. It's been as utterly reliable as any of my non supercharged XJ's, with only marginally worse fuel economy. Buy one! I've owned half a dozen six cylinder XJ's over the years (combinations of XJ40 & X300 cars), all using the AJ6/AJ16 engines. I've never been left stranded in one, unlike E46 & E39 BMW's I've owned too. Yeah they do odd stuff electronically at times, but all the mechanicals just go on and on. I can't speak for the later V8 cars as I've never owned them, but they definately have a reputation as being less robust then the sixes and to be honest I just can't get my head around a V8 in a Jaguar. I had a 1992 XJ40 3.2, I liked it a lot, until it melted a piston. I still have the piston although I couldnt get a piston even from Jaguar so I had to put an engine in. I know thats the exception though and the sixes are generally very good.
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I also hate Jags. Currently hating my XJR. What a curse word. Very nice. Is that a 6? I'm currently looking for an XJR6 although I have to sell my current daily first.
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I'm seeing a lot of s types for sale. Which models are the ones to buy, which to avoid? Any models better than other? I'm particularly partial to the xjr Avoid early S Types like the plague. I had a 1999 3.0 Petrol, bought it with only 69k on the clock and it was appalling, unbelievable suspension wear all over, 5 broken window mechanisms in 2 1/2 years, rattly tappet issue when cold, countless other problems and extensive use of steel and aluminium together causing everything to be fused solid when you try to replace it. Absolutely hateful car, apparently they made big changes around 2002 so later than that is essential if you are buying one in my opinion. Not a good Jag in my opinion even though the styling was good, based on the Lincoln LS I think so not Fords best decision. People slate the X Type for being a Mondeo but at least thats a very good if mundane car to start with.
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Jan 17, 2017 21:14:57 GMT
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I want the sunroof gone from my Carlton, although mainly for weight saving as the factory cartridge is a big heavy thing. I had hoped to weld a panel in relying on the rolled factory edge to provide stiffness but I can imagine the infil distorting a lot.
I'm considering using the glass from the existing sunroof with a couple of steel lips to support it then bond it all around to seal it.
I'd have liked the challenge of welding it but it'll be a bit depressing if it doesnt go well.
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Jan 15, 2017 23:46:28 GMT
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When I bought my Carlton I wondered why this tie wrap moved from side to side when the wipers were on. The tie wrap was anchored to a harness clip and the other end had a rubber band attached that was looped around the wiper mechanism and would move back and forth with the wipers. With no rubber band the rod would fall off due to an extremely worn out ball joint. The whole car was in shocking condition, including tacked and fillered on oversills
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Jan 15, 2017 16:20:17 GMT
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Nissan IDx, still upset that they wont make them, yet are quite happy to make things like the leaf. Bloody hell' I don't normally see the appeal in much modern stuff including most concepts but that looks great, surely that would make its own market and be a big success.
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Just for the benefit of anyone in future doing a search or finding this thread via Google etc I'll briefly mention how Flux shafted me.
I bought a Scimitar, not quite finished but tons of money spent on restoration.
I did the outstanding bits.
I called Flux and got a quote for agreed value insurance at £3500 valuation, I take it out and pay my money.
I fill in the forms and tell the truth about the fact that I paid less than my current valuation.
Flux refuse to honour the agreed value and instantly reduce it to the price paid for the unfinished car, apparently they cant let me make a profit if something happens.
Months of arguing go on, eventually they agree to abide by an independent valuation by the RSSOC which I paid for.
Said valuation came in at £4500.
Yes, OK I ended up with a £4500 valuation but for 6 months I had paid for an agreed value policy that I didnt have, if the car had been lost in the first 6 month of the policy I would have lost money because they wouldnt have paid out what I told them was the value before taking the insurance out and what I'd paid the premium for.
I have heard of many other attempts by them to not pay out by catching out the customer.
I would suggest to Dan that he goes to work for a company that actually has something useful to offer to customers because with his relentless efforts that could turn out well.
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What a shame, what we saw as potential seems to have been just a step along the way to much less tasteful end product.
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Dec 30, 2016 20:40:28 GMT
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Does anyone know what the triangle in the wheels is? Equilateral... Groan... Quite funny actually
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Dec 30, 2016 17:46:40 GMT
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I think there is so much difference in size you should work out whether a 5 or a 6 is for you.
I'd call the 5 a small sporty car and the 6 a large car, others may well disagree.
I knew I wanted a 6 and bought one, it was great but I stupidly sold it after a year.
Unless you want major work buy based on the chassis, ideally maybe an older restoration where the chassis is clearly rust free but the rest of it needs work. I think only the 6b had a galvanised chassis from the factory and they are worth a lot more.
I think they are great cars and easy to use daily. I regret selling mine but needed the money at the time. It went to France, never seen it since.
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Dec 30, 2016 17:25:46 GMT
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The wheels and tyres suit it perfectly too. Does anyone know what the triangle in the wheels is?
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Dec 22, 2016 20:08:52 GMT
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I remember reading that here the high octane / super grades don't yet have ethanol in, can anyone confirm that or educate us with other info.
No ethanol, or something in the fuel blend to prevent the bad effects of it on the rubber and various metal parts of older cars is well worth a few pence extra.
If no super fuel in the UK has ethanol then Tesco is easily the best choice as its the highest octane rating (as far as I know) and sensibly priced.
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Hi, IIRC one diff is locked up and the other is open, so that either or both engines can be use and it will go round corners with no dramas. Colin Before I read your post I worked out in my head that one of them has to not be a diff (locked solid), if they were both diffs it wouldnt move, just the central shaft would spin as long as both engines ran at the same rpm. I think.
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Dec 16, 2016 23:30:08 GMT
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sunroof seals are never perfect, that's why you have sunroof gutter/drains, but on old fords these go straight into the sill... As do some other cars, Vauxhall Carlton is the one I have experience of. Absolutely bonkers idea to take the salty road spray into the sills, I have no idea why they did that.
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