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When you said you used your gas on your friends welder did you use your regulator?
If its easy to try your machine with another reg then do in case its faulty.
Most likely a gas leak though as already discussed.
I noticed you said that you use 0.8 tips for 0.6 wire, why? I don't think it'll cause the problem you have but you are fitting brand new tips that are effectively in worn condition compared to the wire which wont help with your welding.
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Most days its this.
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Just the edge of the rim on mine are bare aluminium where I turned then polished them, a product called Planet Polish wheel seal and shine was recommended and it works well in summer, dirt and brake dust just wipes off and there is no corrosion from rain or washing.
However in winter the first sign of salt on the roads had them turning white and furry and the only thing that stopped that was vaseline. One coating was enough to have them still pristine when I cleaned it off in spring, unfortunately throughout winter they looked terrible as the vaseline got coated in dirt.
I'll be doing the same this year.
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Apr 30, 2017 11:22:53 GMT
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I have to agree on comments on gas.
I used CO2 for many years and did a lot of welding with it, including a lot of car body work. In the past I'd have been the person saying that its cheap and you can do the job just fine.
I changed to Argoshield light a few years ago and never looked back. Having spent a lot of time becoming good with CO2 I needed a short time with the mix to get used to it but then found that I was a much better welder than I thought. I think learning with a less than ideal gas made me better in the end.
I think for a MIG beginner the right gas is the biggest single thing you can change to influence your welding success....well, maybe after learning to clean your work and earth connection point.
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Apr 28, 2017 23:59:00 GMT
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Thats not a cat, it looks like a pre muffler / absorption chamber. Basically a small box with a straight through perforated tube with glass wool around it.
Doesnt it have a cat further forward? Possibly in the manifold.
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Apr 26, 2017 21:44:34 GMT
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I had a J reg 3.2 XJ40 many years ago.
When I bought it it already had a strip of rot all along one floor edge near the sill, common apparently, later it had the front wing rust too. The rear bumper mounts dissolved which was said to be common, I fabricated new ones which was quite easy to do.
The biggest problem I had was a melted piston, I still have it hanging from its rod in the garage, I couldnt get a replacement from Jaguar though so had to replace the engine. That isnt a common problem, I've never heard of them having significant engine problems other than mine.
It was slightly amusing to find the BL logo on some of the engine castings when taking it apart, that didnt inspire confidence.
They are nice cars, and look even better now that they are older.
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Apr 12, 2017 19:42:55 GMT
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my Carlton diamond estate 3.0 24V manual, got it in 1994, still have it but now with nearly 400,000 miles on the clock! up for a full resto soon! Great car and story, I'll look forward to the restoration thread.
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Heading away from the ground (as opposed to lowering) here's one I've ways liked the look of. Wheels and tyres set it off perfectly. Wasnt there a thread about rake a while ago? This would also fit well there, proof that getting the height and wheels right really makes a car.
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I used South Yorkshire Springs. It was a couple of years ago, the price was great but the service less so. I don't have contact details to hand.
They had a lot of history from previous jobs and if you can send an original spring and tell them the standard installed length so that they can measure the rate they can work from there to achieve what you want.
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Damn, missed it, thanks for posting though, I'll look out for it coming on again.
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Mar 24, 2017 23:49:56 GMT
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I'd give it a quick coat of anything, what logicaluk said would be good.
You are going to be doing a lot of cutting and welding before its finished, the bits you know about and probably countless smaller mods where you want to mount things. You will also be handling it a lot so any paint you put on is going to get countless scratches in it.
My thought would be a quick coat of something to give a little bit of protection, but don't worry about keeping it perfect. Build the car, do the welding and cutting and don't be paranoid about scratching it or always re-protecting it where its scratched or you did some work, then once its finished strip it down, have it blasted again and immediately paint it properly once, then final re-assembly.
Trying to prime it now and keep that on for the final paint will end up an awful mess.
I wouldnt waste money on weld through primer, where its going to be welded clean it back to bare metal with a flexible disc on a grinder, clean metal is best for welding anyway. A quick coat of the same thinned brush on primer after welding to control corrosion.
Its your car though so do it how you prefer.
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Mar 21, 2017 22:15:06 GMT
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Ah yes, that is different. I cant help, sorry. Mine had missing bits damage and bodges too when I got it and I just built it the way I wanted it without worrying about how its supposed to be.
My advice would be to decide how you want it and build it that way, as long as you have something under the engine before going off road.
Sorry to not be much help.
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Mar 21, 2017 20:49:25 GMT
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How's the electrolysis going? interested to see the results as I have some calipers that need cleaning up. I did some on calipers on page 2 here with good success - retrorides.proboards.com/thread/181044/scrapyard-dodger-24v-carlton-g624xme?page=2Back to Fugitives - I'm no expert but normally it would have a continuous bar across the back (mine has) and two vertically down from it to form an engine cage. The only reason I can think for yours to be chopped about as it is is when I've seen them with V8 engines which stick out a long way at the back and the frame needs to be modified to go around it. Google images brings up loads of pics of what I think is the standard frame, and this one with a modified back end full of fresh air so it may have had a big engine in it in the past .https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjo897Ou-jSAhWBMhoKHZYjCSEQjhwIBQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fugitives.co.uk%2Fmembers8.htm&psig=AFQjCNGtXql-4mK990NjEzCUo5s-wtkZnQ&ust=1490215506508316 Its not a desirable back end shape if you plan to go off road because one of the things that limits these off road is the rear overhang. You don't want to exaggerate it. It means that those rear bars that drop down and under the engine are also very important to protect the engine, mine have taken a beating over the years.
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Mar 16, 2017 23:06:28 GMT
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Just a thought.
If you are using a standard carb then using a standard air filter with hot air inlet and vac pipes will prevent lots of problems with carb icing and general difficulty getting it driving well without flat spots. The inlet of a single carb engine is so long and so far from the heads it needs hot air inlet.
I had a similar setup in my Fugitive and had terrible carb icing until I fitted all original spec inlet parts. Its well written about in VW circles, naff chrome air filters don't help at all.
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Mar 13, 2017 18:00:30 GMT
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One of my Carlton GSi 24V's cost £300 a few years ago and I think they were £24k new.
I've had a couple of Jags too but my XJ40 cost £1800 many years ago, I don't know the new price so it might not count. My S Type cost £1K but was the most boring and troublesome car I've ever owned so I wouldnt include it.
I like the idea of 5% cars being a thing, its a good target for enjoying a huge amount of car for pocket money.
As an alternative I used to measure cars with workmates on £ per horsepower when I bought a different Carlton GSi for £300 or less than £1.50/horse.
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She was trying to claim for having Dad's car fixed, which is perfectly regular procedure in the circumstances. It might be just me but I don't think thats a perfectly regular procedure in the circumstances, to be honest it sounds ridiculous. The person who has suffered a loss has to make a claim and the insurance company after investigating will pay them directly or their repairer. Your Dad should have claimed either directly to her company or the more usual route is to have his insurance company do it on his behalf. I'm not surprised you didnt get much joy from the insurance company. Apologies if I've misunderstood.
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Last Edit: Mar 2, 2017 23:12:40 GMT by chris y
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Feb 28, 2017 23:25:18 GMT
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I used HPI for my modernish quite expensive car.
I don't know if they are better than others but its all about peace of mind.
They have a guarantee so that you get your money back if their info is flawed and you loose the car but the small print means it doesnt cover some transactions, for example mine cost too much to pay cash according to the rules so having paid cash there was no guarantee. The check still gave good info though and there should be no reason to need the guarantee.
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Feb 25, 2017 23:53:00 GMT
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I thought the same when I had my 3.0 petrol S Type with manual box. It would have been a great parts donor to fit the engine and box into a retro car but I got into bother advertising such a modern car in cars for sale. I sold it (not via here) anyway but would have loved to sell it to a retro enthusiast who would have found a better use for its parts.
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Arent Wolseley wheels 5 stud? I've got some 30s Wolseley wheels that are.
I think they are 30s, google pics show Morris 8 wheels as 6 stud so I'll agree with that, cant claim to have known though as I didnt have a clue.
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Last Edit: Feb 25, 2017 9:05:55 GMT by chris y
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Feb 23, 2017 22:42:02 GMT
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Have to also point out that other insurers can be just as bad. The insurance on the van has been around the £400 mark for a while, but this year Hastings had doubled the renewal to £800 I rang up, told them I was definitely leaving them. You could also hear the panic in her voice, and she offered me the price of £335 if I stayed, which I did That is not at all as bad as the treatment lots of people including me have had from Adrian Flux. Yes, they tried to get a higher than reasonable price then dropped it, sadly although thats not nice its normal practice. Adrian Flux on the other hand will sell you cover and then try anything to not actually give you what you paid for, or one of the many other scams detailed in this thread. People need to read this thread carefully if considering using them, they are not just like the rest, they have a terrible reputation and are worse than the rest. Anyway, just to help future customer Google searches to find this thread - Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review Adrian Flux insurance review This method works to help potential customers find the info us ordinary folk have left by getting the page right up in the search results, just google "Faraday motors in Newbury" if you don't believe me.
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