logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
|
WOW, I turn my back for, and it all kicks off on my thread. horrido thanks once again, that's so close to what I was thinking, the grill and debumper perfect, not so sure about the quarter bumpers, the eyebrows mmmmmm, I'm not sure how it would translate on to the car, ill have to look at the pics back to back and mess about with a bucket of filler. I'm not sure why people feel the need to criticise what was only a suggestion. I'm not sitting here saying I'm right or telling you what to do. I dare say there are other issues behind it. Telling you that you'd need to be some sort of zen level master of hot rodding, to chop about some old bits of glass fibre, when you even have a spare to practice on is absolutely laughable. If you think you can do it, then have a go and don't let anyone tell you you can't. It's not rocket science and it doesn't have to be perfect. Practice on the wheel arches and have a play with the front end later on, when you've gained some experience. You can mock up the eyebrows with cardboard and tape in ten minutes and it might indeed look awful. But it might not. Please don't think I am criticizing your work, I treat this thread as a discussion among friends, I take ideas and play with them, your Photo chopping skills far out weigh mine, and it helps me to see how things go together, yes I have every intention of trying out some of your ideas on the spare bonnet, you have listened to what I have said/done, and made it come together on the screen, you've added what you think works, if you're ever in my area I'd love to buy you a beer. Dan
|
|
Last Edit: Jan 1, 2023 21:39:52 GMT by logicaluk
|
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
|
WOW, I turn my back for, and it all kicks off on my thread. Had another shot at the front end. Smoothed off the glass fibre bumper and added proper chromed quarter bumpers. Added some depth to the front valance. Also extended the "eyebrows" a shade to make it look a bit more mean looking (or actually, just a bit less startled!). Kind of aiming for DB5 meets Gordon Keeble. horrido thanks once again, that's so close to what I was thinking, the grill and debumper perfect, not so sure about the quarter bumpers, the eyebrows mmmmmm, I'm not sure how it would translate on to the car, ill have to look at the pics back to back and mess about with a bucket of filler. nickwheeler I'm not sure about a full width bumper, every time I've mocked it up it just doesn't look right. Personally, I'd just do the bigger wheel arch openings and leave the rest. They're not a pretty car, but the tiny wheels and arches is what makes them look really naff and that change makes such a impressive difference it'd actually be pretty cool. That's where my thoughts had got to, If I do the wheel arches first, the boot lid and bonnet are a bolt on modification and can wait till later (I'm very happy to play with the design now tho). I need to see some progress on this. Was this the bodyshell from Rochester that sat in a garage for years? I believe so. Just out of curiosity Dan did you ever get the V5C ?? Yes, all done and dusted thanks, how's your bond coming on? My observation - The best way to get something that looks and goes like an SE4 is to start with an SE4. I don't want an SE4, I can see why you might think that, though. If staying with the Bond due to the Triumph fetish. Not so much a fetish, more parts I'm familiar with and have in stockMy advice - Leave the body mods, there will be months of work just making the existing tidy, and maybe just try painting it a dark colour. yep, I'm coming around to that way of thinkingWheels - 4 spoke Revo's - which are cheap and plentiful with a range of widths and offsets in 3.75 - and 185/60/13's are also cheap and with plenty of performance options. nice wheels, not available in 15"Princess 4 pots are heavy, not very cheap - and when they are cheap will require a full rebuild. Willwoods are cheap enough. Available for £120 plus pads etc, weight yep I get that, I have not had a look at Willwoods Less is more - Ginetta cheated with the G15 and glued reflectors on the inside of the L691 I think I have reflector lenses for the ones on the bond, so I could go to 4 lights, but I think the 6 lights in line with the number plate looks good and ill be losing the chrome numberplate light as ill use the Land Rover L691 one to light it And the old mantra whatever you take off put back lighter. Unless going all out with CV's and lower wishbones - I have the jig still for these.... is that the lower wishbone for a rotoflex?... the later swing spring is a decent enough option. Engine choice for me would be the 1.8 from an MX5 with its associated 5 speed. Turbo later on if you feel the need. Cheap clean and simple MX5 Engine box - Jaguar racing Green paint - Black and polished Revo's - Swing Spring back end - 9.5 stoppers + Willwoods - just 4 rear lights. Drill holes in everything. ETA Or sell beg steal borrow - and buy an SE4. That would be my option as spending time and money on a less than perfect SE4 has a reward or an SE5 which naturally comes with slot mag style points Slot mags would look coolYour Photoshop skills are mighty impressive, horrido. they are mighty impressive and that's no mistakeMoving the pivot point to accommodate a deeper front would be the easy part. Ill hold you to that DS, its going to need a tap with the lowering stick anyway due to the taller tyres, the number plate plinth is known for hitting the ground, some clever reworking of the pivot point may be required.
|
|
Last Edit: Jan 1, 2023 19:50:32 GMT by logicaluk
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 31, 2022 15:36:34 GMT
|
If you're looking at the immobilizer again, I'd suggest a sterling-excel-immobiliser I've got one on frank, and you don't know it's there, just fit the ariel loop around the ignition barrel, the only downside I've found is occasionally the transponder case comes open, I just put some heat shrink over it. It will accept up to 5 fobs IIRC, so you can have 1 fob working on multiple cars.
|
|
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 30, 2022 14:54:12 GMT
|
Unfortunately nearly all triumph wheels are 13" and well that just looks so right, with the bigger wheels. TBH Minllites would not have been my first choice, but they are I believe the only easily available, sensibly priced 15" wheels that fit. Dan
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 30, 2022 14:56:33 GMT by logicaluk
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 30, 2022 11:51:40 GMT
|
Saw a pic on Facebook the other day, which TBH made me think of you, it was a bond equipe with an early herald front on it, and It was for all intents and purposes a Herald Coupe/fastback, worked really well. Triumph did make a couple, quite rare here. I've seen herald bonnets on bonds and to me they are to short and don't quite balance the car. Yes I can see your thinking, Ivanhoew.
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 30, 2022 11:54:01 GMT by logicaluk
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 30, 2022 10:27:02 GMT
|
The one part I can't leave till later is the wheel arches, I've just emailed the local Land Rover supplier to see if they can supply the correct type of wheel studs.
|
|
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 29, 2022 23:24:29 GMT
|
Thank you, Mr Anderson, I'm trying not creep too much.
Black Pop I think that's a big part of the problem, I've not clarified my vision, part of the problem is I've never worked with GRP despite working for a company that makes shower cubicals from it, I can see What I want to do, I just don't understand how to achieve it and until I do, I can't commit to it
Dan
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 29, 2022 23:26:12 GMT by logicaluk
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 29, 2022 17:33:09 GMT
|
This is fantastic to watch, could you show how you bond the panels back together, I am planning on tweeking some bits of my bond, your advice would be greatly appreciated. Dan
|
|
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 29, 2022 13:02:36 GMT
|
BIG NEWS Yesterday I spent 12.5 hrs collecting this, from almost France. the bonnet has some crazing and some damage on the bottom edge The body is much better than the one I have, no sunroof, no tear next to the rear window, it looks somewhat crisper in its lines, but there's a big crack in the boot lip/bumper. I think it will be a better shell, I'm not so sure about the bonnet though, only time will tell. This does however make my life a little easier, I can use the original shell for mocking up / checking the rear wheel arches. But First, the rear suspension needs sorting out. For those who don't know, Triumph small chassis rear suspension, is a transverse swing axle, I could describe it and its foibles and give people who know what they are talking about a good laugh, or I could point you at Paul Gunthers excellent site which contains much useful information on spitfires and a very good description of how to improve it, Which Is Here Have you heard Triumph enthusiasts singing the Christmas carol "Hark the Herald Axle Swings" I can tell you it's a bit unnerving when it happens and I don't want it to happen again. I think the best place to start, is with a swing spring conversion, not a problem I think I have all the parts in stock, albeit on a spitfire spring for now. I'll have to see if it wants a lowering block or longer drive shafts when it's built up with weight in it. As I'm going to upgrade to 12mm wheel studs, is it worth getting the bits in for a rear brake upgrade at the same time?, to either late spit 1500 or GT6 spec, bearing in mind it's getting a GT6 straight 6 engine, the front brakes will be spit type 14s unless they are inadequate then it's an easy upgrade to princess 4 pots and gt6 disks (so I have been told). Then there's the ever present question of the reshaping of the nose and back end bodywork, there is so much I'd like to do, but I'm concerned it will snowball and ill never get it done. I suppose I don't have to get the nose done right away as it's a bolt on mod, but the backend needs to be decided, I would like to lower the boot floor as there's a fair bit of wasted space there, the spare wheel could sit lower in the floor, but that's only worth doing if I'm de-bumpering it. AAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH so much stuff to do and think about. As ever, your thoughts and opinions are most welcome. Dan
|
|
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 25, 2022 20:15:26 GMT
|
Where is it?
|
|
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 25, 2022 20:07:42 GMT
|
I'm looking for; Long drive shaft from com.-no. FH 50.001;spit 1500 part no. 155928, drive shaft with yoke Length from centre U.J. to end of cone 19.5" length from centre U.J. to end of thread 20.5
Preferably with break drum and radius arms. Dan
|
|
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 25, 2022 19:52:36 GMT
|
3+3 but, smooth the top out so it's even/carries across... That is just an artifact of the carp job of photo shoping, there is a lump in the boot lid for the number plate light there. It looked like this before I got all choppy with it.
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 25, 2022 20:02:48 GMT by logicaluk
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 24, 2022 21:06:47 GMT
|
Just had a quick Photoshop of the back end I rather like the second one, it's less work and looks right. Any other suggestions? Dan
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 24, 2022 21:10:52 GMT by logicaluk
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 24, 2022 13:52:59 GMT
|
I spent the day on the bond, I didn't achieve as much as I would have liked, but it went something like this. Clear the pile of wood from in front of the garage, put away all the carp that had been dumped appeared just in side the door. Have some lunch. Remove the fuel tank and tail lights, the last reversing light proved to be stuck solid, so I did the right thing and gave up and left it there for now. Then I got choppy with it, and cut out the numberplate plinth and tried unsuccessfully to make it look flat with card. Then cut out all the light bases, which was much easier when I worked out I could use a hole saw. Food for thought. Next I wanted to test fit the Minlites, but the standard wheel nuts pass straight through the boltholes, so that's a non-starter till I've upgraded the studs to Freelander ones, and can't chek the fit till thats done. which leads on to the next part, I intend to build the bond up to late spit/GT6 spec with a swing spring which I have most of the parts for in stock, but I don't have late spitfire 1500 long drive shafts, does anyone have some under a bench or in a shed? I'm looking for; Long drive shaft from com.-no. FH 50.001; 1500 part no. 155928, drive shaft with yoke Length from centre U.J. to end of cone 19.5" length from centre U.J. to end of thread 20.5" Just the shaft or a built-up with hub. Dan
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 24, 2022 13:54:57 GMT by logicaluk
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 22, 2022 14:12:00 GMT
|
I'll have a look at doing quarter bumpers, the originals are just a piece of ally extrusion mounted on a lump in the GRP and I don't like the lump much. I reckon the front would have a nice rake to it, if it wasn't for the bumper lump, I'll try to shop something up later. Dan
|
|
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
|
Well the sheds up, but not finished, I haven't touched the bond since. But there is some news...... I've been given a body shell, which appears to be in much better condition than the original, and not have a sunroof, but there's always a catch, it's 250 miles away, which wouldn't have been an issue if I hadn't sold the CRV the week before, luckily a mate has jeep and a spare day to get it with me over Christmas. So the Bond was on my mind, and looking at horrido Photochop of the bigger wheel, and I asked my self how's the front going to look with a bumper delete. I started with the usual pic and deleted the bumper and reg plate deleted the central bar made the grill larger and added another then put the bar back in again reshaped the grill and added an indicator then added side light tryed to add some depth and a number plate. What do you think? Now it's time to try to shut my brain down as it's 2am. Night
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 22, 2022 2:22:19 GMT by logicaluk
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 19, 2022 22:31:42 GMT
|
If you turn up any triumph acclaim bits, message me please. Dan
|
|
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 13, 2022 10:21:08 GMT
|
Love this The herald 1200 engine is much improved by binning the manifolds and carb, mine used to run acclaim carbs on the cut off stubs of the inlet manifold and a home made 4 into 1 exhaust manifold, it was much better to drive afterwards. Dan
|
|
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
Dec 10, 2022 22:49:08 GMT
|
An air fuel ratio gauge, so you can actually read the exhaust gasses to tune the carb, very useful, a wideband kit (narrowband is no use) comes in at about £180, that's cheaper than a half day on the rolling road. Dan
|
|
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
|
Wow, I love RR people. Casting your own pulley, top marks. Carry on. Dan
|
|
|
|
|