PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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Hillman super minx...PhoenixCapri
@phoenixescort
Club Retro Rides Member 91
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May 19, 2020 12:54:24 GMT
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Hi with regards to hillman super minx DDM 798C I have recently purchased this car it's going to be restored by me at Sunderland Tyne wear it's still purple with white under the bonnet ,the car has been parked in a farmers field for a long time but it's still in fair condition PhilA
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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May 19, 2020 11:56:21 GMT
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Well that's fricking awesome, got to love a retro livery! Always fancied one of these, that seems to have turned to want now thanks to you!
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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May 19, 2020 11:53:32 GMT
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Sadly for many I fear a down turn is inevitable, and some industries will be massacred to start with (leisure for example). We won't see the true fall out until furlough support ends. But as it might be a bit industry specific I'm wondering if classic prices might not do what they did in 2008/2009 since many people may not need to sell and so will hang on to cars. Sadly there are sure to be those that need to sell to get some money in the door, so guess their will be some cut prices due to that - going to be a tough one for many.
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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1978 Mk2 Capri - new rimsPhoenixCapri
@phoenixescort
Club Retro Rides Member 91
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May 19, 2020 11:46:07 GMT
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You've created some of the best RR cars over the years: this, the Challenger, the hillclimb Capri and - I hope, since I have a particular interest! - the Toledo to come. Great work! Thank you, that's so kind! Means a lot to get that level of praise. And fingers crossed on the Toledo - it won't look like much to start with sadly but will get there in time I hope!
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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May 13, 2020 15:14:31 GMT
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Did you ever get round to using the ones you got off me? Lined up for the Toledo build
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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Those wheels look rather good on there Thanks, I'm rather taken by them think the nuts need to be black though. The Dunlop crossplys are also fun, shall we say. Forwards progress is difficult, let's say they're very progressive
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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May 11, 2020 19:49:30 GMT
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curse word. Always check your [bonnet] pins folks. Took it for a pre MOT run to the office this morning and as I hit 30mph the bonnet hit 30ft! Woops. Ah well, I've been liking the black stripe less and less of late so gives me a chance to go back to solid blue, maybe.
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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May 11, 2020 19:43:10 GMT
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Ha, typical! Cheers
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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May 10, 2020 20:23:49 GMT
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Ford Capri MK1 black vinyl rear bench seat & door cards £250 ono. Swap for some Capri mk3 parts, P100 parts, 5.0 Mustang EFI parts ( ) Good overall condition Took photos of the parts that could use a bit of glue or stitch before it gets too much worse Door cards are pretty mint, could do with ironing out some of the indents from storage Jake Hey, don't suppose you still have these?
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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mk14dr Thanks for sharing these, can't believe it's 10 yrs ago nearly! Certainly brings back memories, you even have a shot of my old CRX as well bstardchild - I might not have considered the "let the car settle" bit, I shouldn't have been chasing times was bound to push too much. Still, the cars that came out of the ashes of this one have been immense fun and the Capri is definitely a better car in every way. Always a silver lining
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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Apr 26, 2020 19:57:04 GMT
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Finally got the poor thing cleaned up and running. Also got a little tweak done to the livery. Now to get on with getting a longer axle ratio on it
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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Plate type LSD vs ATB LSD PhoenixCapri
@phoenixescort
Club Retro Rides Member 91
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Depends entirely on the car. On most FWD setups it's not too bad, as long as you are confidence in stripping a gearbox apart. This is easier in the Peugeots XU engined cars as the BE boxes generally let you remove the diff only in situ; I think for those you still need a dial gauge and some plastigauge to be fair, but I can't remember. For a RWD, you're probably best off leaving it to a specialist, due to it possibly changing the pinion to CROWNwheel engage. In theory that should not change however, but that's the theory... Where is PhoenixCapri when you need him? Right then, when sticking the new one in it depends on the way the pinion and cage are mounted/adjusted (not sure on yours) but Idalways run through the setup procedure while you're at it, not that hard if tou take your time. As for ATB vs Plate, ran both in my Escort and the short answer is; ATB for fast road/occasional track, plate for track car. The ATB needs a small amount of traction on both wheels to actually lock up, thus it will spin up if you fully loose traction on one wheel (over kerbs in track is the obvious place where one wheel goes airborne). This makes them more forgiving and ideal for the road, it was still an LSD for most of the use I had but let you get away with things a plate wouldn't. ATBs also don't introduce understeer on corner entry like an overrun locking plate can (though it can be tuned out). Usually fair basic tools, though you might need to make up some bars to lock pinion shaft. Plate type will lock in all conditions, but then needs a better level of driving to account for this, especially in lift off (still think my running out of tallent once I'd switched to the plate on the Escort is why I rolled it!). But the ramp angles can be tuned so you can build something more fitting a particular use - e.g. you could have quick locking on drive but fairly open on overrun, to make it more forgiving. These days I run a plate on the Capri, but that's really only a track car. Still need to tune it as its forcing understeer into corners as its locking too much.
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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Being largely a cheapskate myself, I understand your philosphy! In a set of famous words, "i've been doing so much with so little for so long that i'm now fully qualified to do anything with nothing!" And though i've been smitten lately with "Binky's disease" (anything worth doing is worth overdoing and then doing over because you aren't happy with the first try) I try not to lose sight of the KISS principal! If the factory in their infinite wisdom (!) gave me shims, i'll use them and if I spend an extra £60 on a proven product that uprates something that would need to be repaired or replaced anyway, i'll take it! Time is still money, even if that translates as brownie points from SWMBO for doing the gardening! I'm a bit of a lazy engineer, I don't really go for changing things unless I have to, I'd rather try as is and only alter it if it's proven unsatisfactory. So the Carledo is rocking absolutely stock shimming and non adjustable tie bars with it's near 2" drop! The lowering has definitely increased the front camber angle which is good, the castor seems unaffected, turn in and self centering is spot on. I guess this actually translates as "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!" I can't see that dropping the body over the subframe will have a negative effect on rack angles, every part of the steering and suspension that matters, is attached to the subframe. In fact, doing it this way gives you an instant effective 3/4" drop so you only need 1" lowered springs to get a 1.75" lower body! Clever! One thing you MAY need to do though, is shorten the intermediate steering column to allow for the rack being closer to the body. Steve Hadn't actually tried connect the rack up yet so hadn't though about that! Another thing to modify, woop!
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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Loving this, great way to put a retro style 'shop together
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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Leyland Cars are NOT cool!PhoenixCapri
@phoenixescort
Club Retro Rides Member 91
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Apr 23, 2020 15:12:31 GMT
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Oh god I so what to buy a Jag 420 and make that happen, how hard could it be?!
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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Apr 23, 2020 11:54:12 GMT
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I don't like to play the critic after all that hard work, but I really don't like that TCA! You DO know that the bracket that supports it (and the upper wishbone arms) is shim adjustable to achieve what you've done here? And the front tie bar is still badly worn at the front end where the bushes go. Rob Macgregor at Sprintspeed actually MAKES adjustable versions of this tie bar for not stupid money. With the bush support bit completely renewed. Sorry, I missed the last couple of posts or i'd have told you sooner! On the upside, the rear tie bars are ok, though I can't see a lot of benefit to making them adjustable! If you are going to polybush the rear trailing arms at both ends, i'd recommend you box in the trailing arm at the rear end where it kicks up to meet the axle, these have been known to crack and split here on hard used and hard bushed track cars. Alternatively, the track oriented guys at the TDC (me included) use a polybush at the rear end of the trailing arm and a new stock rubber one at the front end. This gives a necessary bit of twist compliance to the arm and doesn't really make it any sloppier than poly. Steve Thanks for info Steve. I had actually been through all the bits I coukd just buy in, but soon reached into hundreds of pounds. Plus I have this terrible afliction where I only feel I've fully achieved something if I've done everything I can on it and its a bit different rather than just bolted some bought in stuff together. Daft, but that's me! Rear trailing arm isn't done to make adjustable really, it's to remove the inner bush compliance since these give the majority of lateral control of the rear end, does mean I can now set the axle nose angle correctly as well. TCA, yeah can shim from factory but I hate the faff of shims when trialing different setups so this is full insitu, plus not entirely sure I could get the range of adjustment I want on shims given the effect to geometry my solid mounting the frame closer to the body will have. If you've ever tried setting camber and caster on on a linked setup like this (where one changes with the other) you'll understand why an insitu setup like this is so much nicer to setup! As for the angled front links, the pins are worn (not that that'll have mich effect with much stiffer longditudinal bushes fitted) but this has cost me £30 vs £90odd. Yeh I know in the grand scheme not a lot, but on a cheap as possible project still a fair amount. Again though, maybe it all just comes under, "just because you can, doesn't mean you should". But that's never stopped me before, just look at my Capri! Cheers
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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Bloody hell that must have taken hours to get to look even slightly ok!
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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Little more progress, adjustable links done. Now to get the engine mounts done and then ship a load of stuff off for powder coating.
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